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A step forward is an achievement. A lot of time, it is a whole lot better to use a press to ease U-joints out. I still use a hammer and a section of Chrysler torsion bar, and the chain pocket on the trailer to drive out U-joints. Sometimes it works well, sometimes it takes the above tools, and a few choice words. I would much rather do older vehicle U-joints much more than newer aluminum drive shafts. Old iron holds together much better than modern crap.
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I never seem to have the same tools available. I’ve beat them using punches, sockets and extensions using anything from wood blocks to a curb for support. I have also pressed them out in a vise or with a bottle jack and the vehicle weight. I thought I died and went to heaven the day I got to use an actual press.
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I cheated, took both drive shafts to a trusted friend Cliffs muffler shop in swansboro, he took em out in short order...
part numbers for reference got them at advance box type auto parts, got lucky, they all fit fine and are cheaper, and i got a military discount of 10%
MOOG U JOINT #369
DORMAN U-JOINT REPAIR KIT #81008
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Work smarter, not harder. There is nothing wrong with taking it to someone who has the right tools. I'm just stubborn, or cheap. The long suffering misses says I'm both.
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"The long suffering misses says I'm both." i hear that from son, daughter, friends all the above, maybe that is why is survived 28 years in corps
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02/12/18 both front and rear drive shafts in good and tight, another check off on the list
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The only one more hard headed than me, is my daughter. Apple doesn't fall far from the tree.
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a question. i have some concern over the "U" bolts. i can not put a torque wrench on the bolts and dont know what the torque is anyway. concern is that they might vibrate loose. would it be a good idea to take a punch and punch the threads right above the nut to prevent a "vibration loosening" have had old timers say this is a good way to prevent some things from loosening, and i did this on my diesel in my sailboat, the punch stops nuts from loosening by them selves but still can be removed by wrench
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There is no torque speck on U-joint bolts. That is a situation where some German torque is applied... Good-N-tight. In my opinion, I would use lock tight thread locker instead of punching the nut. Another option would be to use nylock or crimp nuts. Keep in mind that the standard U-joint strap and nut are grade 10. Anything lower than that is taking a risk. If the lock washer is in good condition, it would hold the nut tight forever. If there is that much vibration in the drive line to loosen up the hardware, there is other problems to contend with. When doing your PMCS, you'll be there greasing the U-joint anyway, take a second to check the torque.
Caterpillar does not use either lock nuts, nor lock washers on any of their engines or equipment. They rely on installing flat washers face up, and proper torque. Flat washers tend to have a natural cup to them, and when torqued properly, the cup flattens out and preloads the fastener to prevent loosening. My slightly worthless fact for the day.
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2 Attachment(s)
and i have some loc tight also.. good idea.. now here is another one
Attachment 2243 Attachment 2244
if i make a jumper from pin "C" to the distributor and connect the cable from reg to pos on starter i have effectively created a link from volt reg to dist to start engine without doing the complete wiring loom, kinda large task now and loom needs repair