A good question for gmwillys. I am going to say I am pretty sure there were some that did not have a tool box, like the Post office vehicles.
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A good question for gmwillys. I am going to say I am pretty sure there were some that did not have a tool box, like the Post office vehicles.
A) if you leave it in place it'll always bug
B) if you remove it, you wont miss it
C) make it removable and replaceable?
D) where is this one taking you? To a show where orig matters? Climbing a waterfall, you might want it to use toolbox... Fishing tackle?
E) modernize it? Plastics are the next best thing said the 1950's...
F) thank the good Lord it ain't an oil leak
All of the Cjs and M series jeeps had a tool box on the passenger floor. The only difference between the Civilian and the Military tool box was that the Civilian had the jeep script pressed in the front panel, while the Military did not. The DJs did have a tool box as well until the introduction of the right hand drive. That part is really fuzzy as far as when that took place.
The tool box offers very little structural rigidity bennefit. Angle iron run across to utilize it to mount the seats on the passenger side. If you do want to create a "box" for putting tools or parts, I wouldn't have it open to the front, because your items will roll out onto the floorboard on a panic slowdown.
Thanks guys. So much to learn, so little time left.
Well I'll be. Sure nuff' there is Jeep script across the front of the tool box. It was coated with a type of tar.
But, it makes me wonder why Willys would stamp script across the front of the tool box?
"Who would see it"? On the other hand, stamping sheet metal does create strength.
Tired now...
I like using lead for body work when I can. I'm not that great at it but growing up in the 50's and 60's I was around it. Those guys were amazing.
Most are dead now...probably from lead poisoning. :|
I just welded up over twenty holes and more to go. Sooo, will do some lead work this week to get back into practice. New floors and supports should be here at the beginning of the week.
Nice, I think the lead is perfect. It is definitely "period correct"!
Be careful what you weld up. On Magoo, the M38A1, someone may have closed up some holes needed to mount the top bows.
Lead is pretty easy to work with. It is a constant balance between heat and smoothing. I would prefer to use lead over bondo.... Never have enough mixed, or a dab too much harder.... I've tried to force myself to love the plastic, but I can't.
If you turn down the wire speed just a smidge, you can even out your spot welds to fill in the low spots where you don't even need any filler.
I am more than pleased with the parts order. The supports are wider by .5 inch, giving the floors, wait for it...more support. That is in the parts description so it was no surprise.
Upon removing the old floors one can see the necessity for a wider U channel as the floors droop down under the weight of the seats and fat people.
The floor flat stock is cut nicely without sharp edges. The tail light back panels will make my work much easier. Job well done lads.
I didn't receive the bumper yet as the company is backed up but let face it, the bumper is a long way off from being needed.
Now the work begins, a strategy forthcoming as I will cut five times and it will still be too short.
mike
Well I'm glad you took care of the English problem. It's good to plan for larger than expected people. As for the build, I'm tempted not to mention the toolbox. Oops.