Attachment 4657Attachment 4658
got to thinking if i bust a piece of glass it is on me but if a glass house does it is on them
100 bucks later
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Attachment 4657Attachment 4658
got to thinking if i bust a piece of glass it is on me but if a glass house does it is on them
100 bucks later
Nice work!
Looks great!
Moving on, i removed the old vacuum motors and they are toast. need to be rebuilt/replaced, got all the rest of the fittings the hose connectors and such. have seen some vacuum motors on ebay, one was new old stock?? comments??
The new old stock would be iffy. The rubber diaphragm may be dried out and will leak on something that has been sitting on the shelf for 60 plus years. Might want to look into rebuilding what you have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQ_MMKfhSwM
http://oldholden.com/node/95377
This guy rebuilt the motor on the '48.
https://rebuildingtricowipers.com/
Make sure your vacuum booster on the bottom of the fuel pump is working.
LarrBeard, I was looking for a "new" rebuild kit for mine with little success. I have an old NOS kit. Like gmwillys, I wonder how good it is. I also have a NOS motor. It actually is working. It's Olive Drab, military stock for sure. I lubed it with light machine oil. Do you think I should "let it ride"? I wonder if I should just send it off to your guy. Was he expensive?
Let it ride. If it's working, resist the urge to fix it until it doesn't.
Light oil or brake fluid seems to be a good lube for the flapper gaskets that ride on the sides of the U-shaped well. I suspect brake fluid may make them swell up a bit and seal better. In some motors, on the flapper, there is an unobtainium leather washer and a light spring that die.
And, like everyone who has a corner on the market - he's not cheap - but he does offer a 3-year warranty.
OK going to paint it black and let it ride. I used machine oil because I am afraid brake fluid will drip out on my paint. I agree with your logic however. Brake fluid would swell up much better. I read that brake fluid is the original method the factory required. Every 3 months! Then I read that Ford put out a tech that on the Model A they wanted you to switch to machine oil do to the paint issue.
Now... I have been googling to see what the, and trying desperately to learn to pronounce "unobtainium leather". It is my new word of the year. So you have fine Corinthian leather interior in your car? Well I have Unobtainium leather in my wiper motors! LarrBeard that word is priceless.
Unobtainium is a perfect term around here. I see it used constantly.
I’ve just got to tell this story:
In the early 1970’s I was working on a proposal for some aircraft radio system on which Magnavox (the company name that year) was teaming with another company as a bidder. We were writing proposal sections under impossible deadlines and trying to write “here is how we are going to do it” stories quicker than the real engineers could finish analyses of what was possible.
I was writing a transmitter section and every analysis we had done indicated that the transistors were going to be way too hot to meet the reliability guidelines we had been assigned. It was about two o’clock in the morning and in weak moment I made the statement that we would meet the derating spec by using high temperature silicon-unobtainium alloy final devices in the transmitter. (I honestly don’t know if I had ever heard the term before, I may be a co-inventor…). I knew full well that one of the staff reviewers would catch that remark and I would have to rewrite it the next day – but it was getting to be Oh-light-thirty and I was out of ideas.
By the next day another panic hit and I never revisited the unobtainium section. The proposal draft was sent off to the integration team at the prime contractor (it may have been Sylvania) and folks started to pull things together. Someone found the phrase about 1:00 AM in another all nighter session. As I found out later, the prime contractor threw a fit – but as more people read the section it got funnier and funnier and people ended up in a case of the sillies.
It actually led to folks taking a look at what were patently unrealistic reliability specifications and modifying several sections to reflect reality. I got the Golden Pencil Award for that proposal – a badly gnawed #2 Yellow Pencil with No Eraser glued to a scrap of plywood with a marking pen inscription.
I would probably get fired for that today. People take things ‘way too seriously. As I once told the boss of the month “Don’t take yourself so seriously, sir. Nobody else does.”
"I’ve just got to tell this story"
Way cool, should have sent the thing to Collins radio!!..
wish I still had my KWM2A, actually had one in the travel case with pwr supply and full crystal pak,, got stolen by movers on household move and i could not get full value from gov when i reported it....
A. Collins was our primary competitor in the UHF aircraft radio business. Magnavox and the succeeding companies did not do HF radios and we only did VHF-FM (30 -88 MHz) as a repackage of VRC-12 modules into the ARC-131/FM-622 helicopter radio. Probably the high point of my career was when we put the ARC-187 into just about every P-3C in the world - a Navy aircraft that had been a Rockwell/Collins platform for years.
B. But, having said that - Collins built great HF radios. The KWM-2A was a neat package of radio. I wish I had one too.
How is Jake doing?
OK fellas, my father communicated with his parents from Korea via HAM radio! low AM frequency "skipped" around the atmosphere. His best buddy was involved with the early "Short Wave" stuff.
WAS INVOLVED IN NAVMARCORMARS FOR MANY MANY YEARS I ran the largest tty and phone patch station in the world, we had 46 acres of antennas five three curtain rhombics pointed from antartica to east coast to far east
three 100 foot towers with 7-30mhz log periodics on them. Dipoles all over the plqde. station open 24/7 ran thousands and thousands of phone patches all over the world.
HERE IS WHERE I AT
ordered steel fuel lines rubberlines just no gonna work. oil pressure gauge itself is so sluggish, just old i think because when put a simpson across the sending unit it responds so good... temp sending unit just sort of sits there and does nothing..... Foot area covered with same coating as underneath only olive drab and it comesout real close to the original paint. sort of in holding mood tires next and title
My father would have loved to meet you! He was deeply involved in Amateur radio. It was his favorite hobby. He was big in 2 meter FM. His skills in electronics was phenomenal.
Steel lines are a good choice. I don't know what its like on your Willys, but on mine it was tough to install. I would have been way ahead to put the fuel line in when the body was off and the master cylinder was not in. I waited till I had the body on and the tank in. Wow it was impossible to get that thing in there. I ended up loosing the master cylinder. It was still very difficult If I did it over again, I would cut, flare and splice the line with a union.
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Ex N0AAR, N0NPE, N0GAQ2/2,N0ASG/4 plus Custodian at several shipboard stations that are long forgotten. I ran the 4B1B Indiana Traffic Net for several years - probably served as the termination for your TTY traffic. Long gone - the internet killed MARS.
Now - new question about Max Magoo's oil gauge issues:
The Jeep is an early M38A1 as I recall, with the Douglas connectors. Is it a 60 PSI or 120 PSI gauge/sender pair?
My latest Science Project has been trying to understand the oil gauge transitions as the M38-series evolved. Early M38's had 60 PSI gauges with Douglas connectors. As things transitioned, they ended up with 120 PSI gauges and Packard connectors.
Probably the most useful gauge/sender combination would be a 60 PSI system (you can just see what is happening in the engine better with a 60 PSI gauge) - the 120 doesn't tell you much at hot idle.
The bad news is that I can't find a 60 PSI sender/gauge pair with Douglas connectors, it would need you to put a female Packard connector on the vehicle wiring harness, either as a splice or as a jumper cable.
The best choice for a gauge is an MS24541-2 gauge (Indicator, Pressure: 24 volt DC, Range 0-60 PSI). Here is a source for a genuine MS gauge - there are a couple of different configurations of the face and dial but the MS drawing allows that variation.
https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartD...e-Gauge-60-PSI
It needs to be tied to a 0-60 PSI Sender, MS24538-1 (Transmitter, Pressure - 24 volt DC 60 PSI). Mike has that MS P/N, KWAS 8376490.
The gauge has been a pain, but that is probably the ONE gauge you want to be right!
great advice on oil pressure, yeah it is a stinker
new item
Obtained a title, got plates, whole process ad NCDMV $493.70 that did include a custom plate 52-M38A1 that will arrive in a couple of weeks. but have temp tags now and registration.......
NEW ITEM
What would the ohmic value of temp sending unit at ambient or cold tem. and what should it be at say 175 degrees F
I may be mis evaluating what i have? using the original sending unit and a new meter
when hooked up to sending unit it just sits there and does not move, but when i put a simpson on the sending unit and reading at X100 value i get following
at ambient temp of 68 deg f (air temp outisde early morning 68d f) i get 6k
at ambient temp of 91 deg f (aair temp oudside at noon 91 d f) i get 5k
after 10 min warm up engine on i get 1.5 k
after 20 min warm up enging on i get 1.1k
what do you think????
sending unit working okay and meter movement not right?
JUST REPEATED TEST.... KINDA WARM OUT AND ENGINE HAD NOT REALLY COOLED DOWN MUCH FROM RUNNING HOUR OR MORE AGO
WHEN RUNNING AT SOMEWHAT FAST IDLE ENGINE TEMP SENDING UNIT WAS READING 1.1K AND DIGITAL ELEDTRONIC SENSOR SAID 168 DEGREES AT THE SENDING UNIT AND AT THERMOSTAT
motor off for 45 minutes, and now reading 4.5K
Interesting.
had to connect ground to all things in the instrument panel, ssince ground is ground the world around but not on the instrument package for the m38a1. now is at chassis ground and all lights and whistles work including new oil pressure guage, start up and its at high 50, after a warm up it sits at 30
There are all kinds of temperature gauges available. Some are just look-alike repro gauges that bear only a slight resemblance to what was actually in the M38A1’s. Early M38A1’s had the Douglas connectors on the gauges and electrical system. The Douglas connector gauges, as far as I have been able to find so far, were Ordinance gauges with part numbers like 7386865.
About 1953 or so, someone put their foot down and the Mil-Spec (MS) standardization began to replace Army Ordinance, Navy NAVSHIP and BuAer and Air Force AF – parts with standardized parts for all of the military.
In later M38A1’s, panel gauges went to Mil-Spec numbers. There might be different gauge styles 0-60 PSI vs. 0-120 PSI – but a Mil-Spec for each one.
As for a temperature gauge, as I look at catalogs and pictures, the most common M38A1 gauge showing up is a gauge marked MS24543-2 (Indicator; Temperature, Electrical Resistance: 24 Volt DC, Range 120-240 degrees). Just for giggles the -2 gauge is “non-luminous”. The -1 gauge, which was been cancelled, was luminous – it had a radioactive adder to make it glow in the dark. Original R-390A radios had luminous gauges too – that’s why I glow in the dark now).
Good ol’ MS24543 only tells you that the temperature gauge “Must operate linearly and accurately when properly connected in a circuit with associated transmitter MS24537”. At least we have a gauge/sender pair we can kind of depend on.
Now, when I go to MS24537, there isn’t a lot of info there either. The spec gives three temperature/resistance points:
Cold 120-degrees F 2360-ohms (+10%, -15%)
Hot 200-Degrees F 710-ohms (+/- 5%)
Too Hot 240-degrees F 310-ohms (_+/-8%)
I’ve asked folks on this forum and the g503 to measure thee coils in the temperature and oil pressure gauges, but no luck so far.
Just from an eyeball look at the resistances in the MS chart, at about 170 degrees engine temp, the resistance of the sensor should be considerably less that 2360-ohms and a bit more than 710-ohms. It looks pretty non-linear, but your 1.1K to 1.5K might not be too far off.
What is the P/N on the face of your gauge? Is it still one of the original gauges or a repro/NOS unit?
And, that instrument panel might not be ground after you did such a good job of getting off all the rust, priming it and putting a nice coat of paint on it. You did too good a job. Sometimes you have to skin off a bit of paint to get things to work.
frustrated..... got new fuel lines from kaiser. came in many sections one thing in common is that they all had 5/16 inverted flair ends all male, i drove 150 miles went to all auto parts store within 50 mile radius. nada.. went on internet and after 1/2 hour found them and ordered them
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...rItem=62252408
That's the Jeep equivalent of "Batteries not Included".
Like your local auto parts places, places around here tend not to have what I need and I get the answer "We can get that for you in a couple of days". Well, I've already wasted a morning running around looking for whatever I want and if I have them order it, I have to make another trip to the store to pick it up. Fuss and complain as I do about Amazon, at least things show up on my doorstep.
You are overdue to post another picture of Jake - and the M38A1 as well.
Well, am diligently working on fuel lines.. Need elbows and unions to make it work and have to have them sent via internet, but found them. Two tires and rims on front now
photos of jake coming got to get his *** to sit still though
UNIONS AND 90 DEGREE PIECES CAN BE ALSO FOUND AT WWW.DISCOUNTHYDRAULICHOSE.COM
Jake just wond sit still unless
14 weeks today
Attachment 4672asleep
Happy Birthday Jake!
Happy belated Birthday Jake!
Need bolt pattern FOR SPARE TIRE CARRIER to drill rear end of m38a1, no holes in tailgate?? Dont want to gorp it up
I don't have the measurements, but I do know that the holes had inserts in them to prevent the body from collapsing. You can replicate the effect by over boring the hole through the stiffeners to the size of a section of pipe. The hardware was 3/8" if I remember correctly, so you need 3/8" i.d. pipe. When you put your flat washer on, you won't see the mod. I'll pull the pictures up in the morning to see if we can come up with reference points to get things pert near close.
well, that is a start.... should be straightforward, the braces that came with the new tail section was not predrilled, but then again i groaned at 180.00 for a spare tire holder, going to see what i can come up with
They are proud of the carriers.
Jake got all tuckered out from supervising the hook up of all the fuel lines......****a real pain in the *** too, got bruised all to heck running the darn things***
jake at 15weeks
Attachment 4694
HAD A LITTLE TROUBLE WITH GAS LINES. ONE FITTING AT THE FIRST 90 NOT QUITE TIGHT ENOUGH, AIR GETTING INTO AND THAT CREATED A PROBLEM AT PUMP AND CARB. BUT GOT IT SORTED OUT AND CONNECTED THE FUEL GUAGE IT SAID LESS THAN A QUARTER, BOUT RIGHT PUT FIVE GALLONS IN. drove it to nearest gas station and filled it up. not happy with brakes, i am just not knowledgeable to adjust these things i think i have it right and it is just not. also have a bad gasket at the fuel bowl on top and it is getting air in there and screws up the float. just can not find a gasket all by itself unless i get a 40.00 rebuild kit... damn
SURE GOT A LOT OF WAVES AND HORNS HONKING AS I DROVE AT 40 MILES A HOUR.......
OH YEAH FUEL GAUGE WENT TO FULL WITH 15 GALLONS MORE
I too am not real happy with how mine stops. It has a completely rebuilt brake system. The adjusting hardware is not new. I think that was a mistake. I have some work to do also. I found that simply loosing the lock nuts and moving the cam till it locks up the drum, and then backing it of just enough to set the drum free, does a great job of making sure the shoes are very close. I am having trouble with a few of the cams. On two wheels I was not able to get the brake to lock up by adjusting. I must have worn cams on a few. I am not sure why I was able to get some shoes to grab the drum and lock it up and some shoes would not grab. on some shoes I could adjust one cam to lock the wheel, back it off a touch and move to the other cam. I could rotate the cam adjuster around and around with no effect. After adjusting all the brakes I could this way, I had a much better pedal. Much higher. However there are two shoes I could not adjust due to the cams not getting the shoe close enough to the drum. It will stop but, it will not lock the brakes on any wheel.
I am not familiar with driving an old CJ at all. I am wondering if standing on the brakes is the way it is. It does not stop like my 2015 GMC.
Well, worst brakes i ever had was a35ford pick up pure mechanical took two men and a boy to stop , mine are terrible, and the shoes are new and drums although not turned were basically new, jeep only had 1500 odometermiles on it when it got parked. I dunno, maybe take it to a brake shop and find a mechanic that is old school??? Got to do something kinda scary. Had egzact same exp with the cams, and they are 15.00 a wheel for two
I just "bit the bullet" and spent $180 on a hardware kit. Looks like we discovered the cams may not be reusable. I am going to put it in the air, and try again. I was joking with LarrBeard at the parade about "assured clear distance". I have a solid appreciation for starting to stop way early. There is no such thing as a panic stop in this thing. A gradual reduction in speed defines my brakes!
It came Magoo now has a license plate and a title
Attachment 4714