strange same valve guide for intake and ex, but the diagram only shows the intake portion. well it is what it is
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strange same valve guide for intake and ex, but the diagram only shows the intake portion. well it is what it is
There is two item 13, one exhaust, one intake. Two different part numbers. You may only need the sticking guide, but if your luck is like mine, go ahead and purchase them all.
got the pan off, and all four valves are held up with wooden wedges that way they wont drop thru when cam pulled yeah. new valve, guide, seat, lifter, and gaskets, but for condensation on open valve?? and just sitting there??
I use dehydrator plugs in place of spark plugs in the aircraft engines I pickle. It’s amazing how fast they can turn color on an engine with the exhaust, intake and vent taped shut. Even the cylinders with both valves closed will change color, slower than those installed in cylinders with open valves but they do change. There is a lot of condensation in every engine.
We use 10 one pound bags of moisture absorbent when dealing with power packs going into a can for storage. Often, when we get one back from overseas, the packs are full, and inside of the can looks like a rain forest. Often, we have to bar over an engine to push out any moisture that has made its way into the engine. Another problem we run into is when the engines go through the wash process, the folks tend to like to fill the air cleaner full of soapy water. When the water is evacuated, you still have to contend with the rust that is left behind. When the engine is started, the rust and soot that comes from the turbo is tremendous. When we were operating at full deployment in Iraq, the fine sand was the biggest clogger of parts there is. It's like talcum powder.
when i drive around Camp Lejeune i see all of the MT parks and all vehicles out in the rain. not a good thing
No it isn't. When the vehicles are parked outside, all the hull plugs must be installed to protect the environment. That's well and fine as long as the vehicles are tarpped. Most often they are not, so the hills fill up with water, and cause us grief. A lot of harnesses and hydraulic lines become damaged by the soup that they are submerged in. Sometimes we are our own worst enemy.
My neighbor friend is borrowing a old style flathead valve spring retainer tool.,, need to get the valve out because there are apparently 2 types of valves and Mike needs to know what i have. everything is exposed, side plate off, head off, exhaust manifold off, all valves blocked up by 3/8" pieces of plywood wedges (did not want to use metal against metal to hold them up) all of the lifters are locked up as high as i can get them and have wire ties around them so i can pull the cam without them dropping out. might just pull the cam out enough to get #3 ex out, that is the one getting reworked. Advance told me they can get all that i need including gaskets for oil pump, timing cover,. but might have to pay shipping, but if i order 99.99 worth of pieces and parts from mike, no shipping advance told me total for all about 40.00 have not figured up Mikes prices yet
NOW WHEN I PUT IN THE OIL PUMP AND DROP IN THE DISTRIBUTOR I NEED TO HAVE THEM BOTH ALIGNED TO #1 FIRE. THE SLOT IS OFFSET ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DIST, THERE A FOOLPROOF WAY TO DO THIS. GEARS WILL BE SET UP FOR CORRECT TDC, PUT OIL PUMP IN AND TRY THE DIST IF IT ALIGNS TO #1 AM I GOOD??, CAN ONLY GO IN TWO WAYS AND ONE IS 180d OUT??
If you have everything set to TDC, then lay out the distributor and oil pump so that the slot will align when installed. When I say lay them out, I am referring to laying them out on the bench and ensure that the distributor is set at #1, then line up the shaft for the oil pump to match the distributor. Double check everything, then install the oil pump. Keep in mind that you will have to start off one to two teeth off, so when the oil pump gear contacts the cam gear, it will mesh, (rotate) into place. At this point, your distributor then can be installed. Should fall right into place from there.
The flat head spring compressors are getting hard to come by, although I have seen a set up on the market that works of the same principal as the flat head compressors. The new spring compressors are designed to compress just the springs on a modern V-8, then uses air pressure applied through a fitting installed in place of the spark plug. The air pressure is enough to keep the valve in place while the keepers are removed. Most the time it is used to replace the valve guide seals on Chevy V-8s.
Good advice on the one or two tooth offset.