With the suction cup and compound on a dowel, just spin them until you get a nice, even bright ring on the valve and seat. Simple and elegant!
Time to restart.
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Everything looks good. The distributor is at the right position for the timing to be close. Good luck!
we were quite carefull to be tdc #1 then oil pump shallow side down and dist on #1 and it dropped right in, still hanging stuff and getting close to turning key to speak wonder if this is worth it. kinda pricey. but have the original plugs, time to get creative
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-tim...0-64-m38-m38a1
Just for timing purposes, could you substitute an unshielded wire for the #1 plug?
I suspect that if you get it close enough to start, you can time it by ear. If it's so far off it won't start - this gadget wouldn't help anyway - but then I've never had to work with the shielded RFI ignitions.
We're rootin' for you!
got no fire? trouble shooting discpvered 24vdc at input of dist, but no voltage at + side of coil? broken wire from connector to + side, replaced wire, still no fire, bot all voltages are good at coil?
No fire or no spark? I have better luck watching a plug for spark than trying to short a lead with a screw driver. I have also removed the distributor cap and cranked the engine while watching for spark across the points attempting to isolate a problem.
me too, took plug out and aligator clipped it to ground and put in dark place zippoo, did find the wire from outside the distributor to the + side of the coil, bad and so i sez to myself there is the culprit, took distributor out dis assembled and replaced the new wire with16 gauge marine grade tinned wire, put it together and was confident that that was the problem, now i had the correct voltages on the coil, but still no fire.....................damn
Touch up the points with some fine sand paper, or points file. From there, check the rotor for proper clearance to the cap. Touch up the tip of the rotor, contacts of the cap, and the rotor button on top with the fine sand paper. The problem is most likely going to be something trivial, because the engine ran before you tore it down a month or so ago.
" The problem is most likely going to be something trivial,"...............That is what i was thinkng, was so very surprised that it did not fire up, and yeah, was disappointed. Yesterday just shut the garage and went inside, kinda pissed. But wth. Happen to have some tiny files and one of them is a file that is paper thin. will do just that after some coffee. Kinda hard to check out a capacitor. gonna read either short or open,,, short means no good for sure, But since it will pass the effects of small signals, and happen to have one of the older Heath kit test labs that has ability to produce signals up to 2K, just might try that????????????? the wires are good, sort of beat up in places shielding wise, but they all were good, easy enough to do the simpson 360 to them.(THIS IS THE METER I WAS TRAINED ON BACK IN THE 60'S AND THERE AINT NO DIGITAL METER ALIVE THAT CAN TOUCH IT AS FAR AS TUNING A CKT AND LOOKING FOR A DIP)
Attachment 2471
gonna clean all he contact areas and then i am gonna drill instructor its ***, choke the thing and ask questions each time i squeeze its adams apple
Usually a combination of choice words always seems to help. Just have to figure out the right configuration.
The points on the 350 sbc would need to be filed every time I went to move it, (about every 6 months). I think you are close to making noise.