Thank you to all Veterans!
Great job on pulling through the hardships to get Magoo to this point. Mr. Magoo would have been proud to ride shot gun with you on your first parade.
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Thank you to all Veterans!
Great job on pulling through the hardships to get Magoo to this point. Mr. Magoo would have been proud to ride shot gun with you on your first parade.
Attachment 5147
to all my usmc friends and brothers, happy 244th birthday
Goodnight Chesty, wherever you are. Happy birthday!
Darn, got a issue!!!!
oil pump leaking at gasket.
this is due ro having to remove the oild pump more than once for various reasons while bringing engine up to speed
correct me if i am wrong, been while since i have taken one out (PIA) but they only go back one way, with the offset and particular way the distributor connect to the pump it can only go in one way CORRECT???
Correct, it will only go back in one way.
Thank you for your continued service to our Freedom and Country Ira!
I recommend the following book that covers the very topic you are talking about;
https://www.amazon.com/Silence-War-M.../dp/1101988185
Maybe there are some avenues that you can share your knowledge? It would be worth looking into.
The Marines were offering quick re enlistment bonus and quick process for gulf war '91. i said wth, went for it, got letter saying yeah rpt here for new uniforms and suxh. Then I got a phone call from the Sgt Major of the USMC. he said and i quote"JONES WHAT THE **** ARE YOU TRYING TO DO, YOU AINT GOING ANYWHERE YOU GOT TOO MANY HOLES IN YOU NOW YOU WILL SIT THIS ONE OUT" OH WELL
DIFFERENT NOTE,
Pulled oil pump, made a new gasket, re installed oil pump all done in less than a hour. damn getting good on the 134F
Ira, you were better off sitting that one out …
My ’91 Gulf War story was a bit different. I had been passed over the third time for E9 (Master Chief), my appeals had been ignored, so I had to put in my retirement papers in July of 90. The stuff hit the fan and in September, while I was waiting for the approval of my retirement, I got a call from a detailer at Naval Reserve New Orleans.
The detailer was looking for a Senior Chief to act as the OIC for an advanced electronics depot in the eastern Med area. Now, remember at that time we had no idea what this was going to turn out to be – it could have been a Korea or Viet Nam. I asked the detailer if, once I took this assignment, it would get me my E9 selection. The answer back was “No, this won’t have any impact on your pending retirement, just postpone it”.
My next response was; “Well, I missed all the Viet Nam opportunities in 1967 and I think I’ll just pass this one as well”. About a month later, I got a second call from a LCDR who asked me if I had thought about my answer. “Yes sir, I have and I think it was a good answer. Not me this time.”
My E8 USMC buddy did take a mobilization to Saudi Arabia where he served as a marksmanship instructor for the Saudi army. His comment was “I’d had better luck trying to teach camels to dance…”. He didn’t get E9 out of it either.
Tshe only way to get e9 at the time was to shoot some of the ones on active duty, took me ten years to get 7.. Most of those years it was zero to e7 in my field. Dont know if you know a name norm chandler, full colonel. He alled me and another marine retired and asked if we ould help with marksmanship at the range at lejeune, unofficially and no pay of course. I said why not and did so. Think i helped some
I'd love to sit through one of your courses. I'd like to be better than an alright shot.
2014 the NRA and CMP had the inaugural sniper match.. I used an original 1903A4 sniper rifle, course was ten rounds at three hundred yards target comes up and got 20 seconds to shoot, then goes down for 20 seconds then comes up and this is done for all ten shots
shot a 100 with ten X's
then move to 600 yards and same routine
shot another 100 with ten x's
this is a great OLD rifle pretty damn accurate i used 168grain 3006 match ammo, took the gold medal 1200 competitors
Attachment 5157
the next year had to shoot team match, i used a original USMC SNIPER RIFLE Philadelphia naval shipyard gun smiths created these mine was based upon a 1929 match 1903 and they added a unertyl 8 power scope, and a "C" stock (pistol grip) i shot a perfect score but my team mate dropped one into the 9 ring at 600 so only got a bronze
back to Mr Magoo, seem to have developed some leaks at the union of u joint and the differential gear oil dripping out of u joint shaft?? seal?? what is best choice for new seals? do not seem tho have good luck with kaiser gaskets?? and the darned transfer case same issue and it has a new kaiser gasket??
I loved reading your reply about the match! It fits in great with the American Rifleman story this month about the Springfield sniper rifles. It is amazing what YOU can do with a rifle designed over 100 years ago. I am truly humbled by your skill.
If you are seeing (and smelling) gear lube at the pinion, it is probably the pinon seal. Any good name seal will do. I used a National seal made from Nitrile material. Make sure the yoke does not have a groove worn in it or, has a pitted or galled up seal surface. If it does, I use wear sleeves, a little cheaper than replacing the yoke.
will inspect very close,,, what would constitute serious groove or wear??
lotsa stuff in there
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Pelago,
Remember you just had your Jeep serviced. A Willys will leak until it finds its happy place for fluid levels. If the service station pumped in dope until it was running out the hole, there is probably too much for its liking. Good rule of thumb, stick your finger in the hole, and point down. If the dope is between your nail and first knuckle, you are in range.
A true Craftsman with a rifle, you are.
My introduction to the Sniper Match was in 2015 (I think). I had shot the Hearst Doubles that morning and my partner in that match was shooting with another guy from our group in the Sniper that afternoon. But, while we were cooling down, his Sniper Match Partner called – he had the GI trots and couldn’t get more than a few feet away from the pot.
So, I was drafted to be the substitute – under a different name. Since we had no chance of winning anything, we didn’t worry about it. I’d never shot the particular rifle we were using, but we grabbed those two lousy sandbags we were issued and made a nest; (168 grain Hornady BTHP, 46 grains H4895 – pretty much the standard recipe). I gave my buddy his sighter shots and I rolled over on the gun. Fortunately his eyes and mine focused the same, so we didn’t have to fiddle with the scope.
I stayed on the gun when it came time to shoot for record; my first shot was an 8 out at 9 o’clock. I recall telling myself “You aren’t going to win anything shooting like that”; so I settled down and the next nine shots were all 10’s; all around the clock and not an X in the bunch. I don’t remember the rest of the match, but we didn’t win or embarrass ourselves – even if I did shoot under an alias that day.
Next year, same gun – different partner. We shot well enough to just squeak into a Bronze by three points or so.
The last time I shot the Sniper (same partner as previous year) we were doing very well, and had moved back to 600-yards. Then - I missed a wind change and my partner shot a downwind 7 when he had been shooting 10’s. He couldn’t give me a good call on where the shot broke, and I told him “Aw shux, just shoot it again”. He did and shot another downwind 7. That time he gave me a good call and I told him to hold mid-7 upwind (9-o’clock). He did and it was a downwind tight 9. So, by missing the wind change, I let him drop about 4 to 6 points – and as you know – in that match dropping 4 to 6 points moves you well out of the Bronze into the cotton T-shirt medals.
Life has caught up with me and I haven’t been able to shoot for the last couple of years. Maybe next year…
This is a picture of a REAL bad grove. I don't like to see much of a grove at all. Any pits or anything that is other than perfectly smooth, will just cut up the new seal or leak under the lip.
Attachment 5164
NOW THAT IS A GROOVE,,, Just went under Magoo and scoped it out, rear differential the big gasket on the rear seems suspect there is always a drop hanging ready to drop, and that does not seem to be a huge issue
xfer case rear yoke to back wheel has constant drip, think it is bad, could possibley be the big gasket on the transfer case itself, kinda wet, rear yoke that goes in seems dry
miight hold off on this and scrub under the jeep woith cleaner and water, drive it bit then park it and look see...... tracking down leaks is a pain in the ***,,, all i can think of is to clean it with cleaner, get it dry park it on clean floor and let it drip, anyone else go a magical way to do it.. some might say a bottle of gear oil easier than tearing it apart but wth??
here are two rifles, the 1941 (original) is a shooter, sand bag hold it holds X ring right on the money
the other one i used this model while part of landing force staff in Beirut, since we did not follow or were in ground force command we were told that we had free hand and my colonel wante som hez's to disappear, i did turned on head into a canoe but wont show that photo, but he went to see his 72 virgins (all had the likeness of Yasif Arrafat
now if you are serious the last photo is a dead on at 1000 yard 1903 and a dead on 100 yard 22 the o3 with big *** barell was my grand dads
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Put it over a piece of cardboard. Its easier to throw away the cardboard than clean the floor. Ask me how I know ...
I like your thought process. Once you get it cleaned off it should be easier to tell where its coming from.
If you go after the rear diff cover, use the Fel-Pro gasket Part # RDS 6095-1. On the transfer case, they are notorious for leaks in several places. There are many thru bolts into the lube that must be sealed, shift rail seals that are tricky to install, and right were you are talking about, the output shim pack. The rear cap has shims under it to set the end play on the bearings. In a perfect world they seal themselves. I lightly spray everyone of the shims on both sides with Permatex High-Tack, prior to the final install after determining end play. I think they eventually leak if you don't.
I love those rifles! Man they look perfect setting on that M38A1.
YEAH, a piece came out and took the tibial artery with it, blood shot out from underneath the overhead sitting on the bench out sbout 4 foot and first hit the tsrget, i said holy ****, and guy next to me a buck sgt in army said same thing, he had a tourniquet with him (guess that is standard now) and started to administer first aid, but could not get blood to stop, then pit director came over and got on phone, the rest of story i did not hear, but i do know the colonel did not want me on a bumpy ambulance ride nd ordered the place **** down and helo to come in. got in helo and they cut my damn brand new pants off,
PHOTO OF MY SORRY REAR END GETTING LOADED AT VIALE RANGE AT THE NATIONALS
Attachment 5169
new CARB, Went round and round with Kaiser on this carb, when i got it there was absolutely no way to set up or attach a independent cable for choke and throttle, and being in as much as Magoo sometimes is cold hearted starting i felt i needed the choke. contacted Kaiser and it took agout 8 emails with photos to prove that the carb that i got did not have the fittings to attach cable for choke or throttle. They kept asking for this phot and fotr that photo, finally i said how many pictures do you want have sent photos with the empty spots where there is supposed to be linkage attachements, finally they just sent me a new carb and told me to replace what i have and return it pre paid. Well the carb came in okay and sure enough there were the missing pieces and parts that i needed, replace carb, hell no, take off valve cover and have to make a new gasket, not going to happen. 1 5/16 wrench and ten minutes it was done, their new carb is pristine but missing one cable clam[ and two 5/16 small bolts an one 5/16 nut
SOMETIMES YOU JUST GOT TO STICK TO YOUR GUNS, THIS IS THE ONLY TIME I HAVE EVER HAD A ISSUE WITH KAISER, 99.9% OF TIME NOT A PROBLEM BUT THIS SORT OF SEEMED TO CRAWL BUT ALL IS GOOD AND DAMN IF MAGOO DONT RUN GREAT NOW THAT IT BREATHES
Attachment 5170Attachment 5171 Attachment 5172Attachment 5173
cleaned motor, trans, transfer case, and rear end, used two cans of gunk, waited 20 minuts then hit it with a hose, then drove around block to dry off (cold, I mean REALLY COLD) then pulled in to the garage and floor is clean as i could get using acetone and a rag, HOWEVER, JUST HAPPENED TO HAVE TWO 24"x24" PIECES OF CLEAN CARDBOARD Layed them out under the whole mess and will mark them "puddles" manana.... we sha ll see said the blindman
Yes I think so. Here is a link to a 1960 F4-134. https://www.felpro.com/find-my-part/...=1960~Jeep~CJ3 I wasn't sure of your year. An F head is an F head however. I have had a lot of success with Fel-Pro gaskets through the years. Even though I worked for Dana and they owned and I sold Victor Gasket, there were times when the Fel-Pro was preferred. I just think it would be unusual to have a bad result with them. Whatever you do don't take a chance on any other head gasket. There is a lot of reports of bad China import stuff. I got a hold of one for my L134 and checked it out. It is a real good knock off of the Fel-Pro. A fairly cheap lamination however. I have read about failures. The China is not marked anywhere as to where it is made. If you use the Fel-Pro Engine set there is a note that the "Military Rear Main Seal is not included". I am not sure what that means. Maybe gmwillys can help out here. I am not aware of what the "Military Seal" is. If you can use the rubber seal in your block I would use it. It is preferred to the rope seal.
I did have excellent results with the Hard Parts for the motor provided by KW. The Bearings, Rings, Pistons and Valve train parts were top notch. The pistons were Silvolite's and the rings were Hastings.
They are made by National oil seal and Timken Bearing as well as some others. The prices are all over the place. I used Nationals part # 99155. https://www.amazon.com/National-Oil-.../dp/B000C5JND8 These fit the Dana models 25's 27's 30's 44's and 50's. They will save you $20 or so over a new yoke.
coupe of dime size drops that i have no idea???
but have strong suspicion that the yoke from transfer case to rear end is leaking pretty good, gear oil flung around it and very visible, where before i suspected the gasket on big plate what i was seeing was gear wt oil splashed uo into bottom of body and draining down by gravity nmaking it look like it came from somewhere else
also found that the drain plug on the rear end was not all the way in (wasnt loose but had 1- 1 1/2 turn ro shut)
still looking
[QUOTE=pelago;9820]we shall see said the blindman QUOTE]
You are into the second stage of a restoration. You got Magoo to run, but it still needed a little tweaking and you are finding that some of the old pieces that you thought were OK, or you didn't know just what issues to look for, are causing some problems.
I'm not sure everything ever goes away, but after a while we get to the place we can live with it.
The '48 drips here and there, but I put cardboard under the drips and wipe off the splatter and live with it. I’ve learned that blood and oil leaks are similar; it just takes a few drops to get noticed, but it takes a lot more than you’d think to do any harm.
i believe tht the worst one is the one yoke that comes out of xfer case, that gear oil after being spread around makes it look like other stuff leaking,,,, that is probably the one i will do first and then evaluate. and i do believe tht rear mains weeping a bit and i can live with that especially with another motor being rebuilt from ground up. few splotches on floor i can live with, did not re do whole motor, only the exh valves were done completely and it runs just to good, quiet, plenty of get up and go will do 60+ mph (not with me driving it though too damn fast) it just runs so so nice. but the one yoke leaks pretty bad.... I HAVE A NOTHER MOTOR THAT HAS FULL E BRAKE AND A YOKE ON IT.................
and oil is relatively cheap. easier to top it off than tear it apart. but will of course do the following
1. emergency brake
2. fender mounted black out light
3. back seat
4. full set of canvas: top, side panels, doors got a good price for the whole kit and kaboodle all new, bows and all mounting hdw
1405.00
If you find the end yoke is worn at the T-Case, either end, it is the same repair sleeve as the pinions. National 99155. They are $19 at Rock Auto.
"T-Case," not sure i unerstand, going out to pull the other yoke of the other transfer case and look at it, and going to try and see if i cant take a photo of the gear oil that got scattered, that would make like a whole lot of things leaking
do the sleeves need to be pressed on?
T-case, I was shortening transfer case. I was just saying it's the same sleeve on all the yokes.
They can be pressed on or, tapped on. I prefer a smaller press for the control. I have done it both ways. There are some good video of installation online.
90 WT GEAR OIL ALL OVER BOTTOM
Attachment 5184
Now i had cleaned this pretty good with gunk and there was hardly any there and drove around block hoping to just warm it up some, but the gear oil is all over the bottom and just kinda splattered all over
not sure how this works, what is the cap looking thing?
Attachment 5185
here is the yoke that was just remove from the extra transmission and xfer case, did clean it up some, this is the one that has the e brake on it and am hoping to transfer the brake to the jeep later on I can feel grooves in it, not bad, but then again have only seen a photo of a bad one and never held one so i really can not say this is good or bad no experience with it next to it is a new one from kaiser for 49.00 so differende would be 30.00 rock auto to kaiser?
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The cap is actually a driver. You put the sleeve on the yoke flange down. Then you set the cap over the sleeve and it rests on the flange of the sleeve. Then you tap the sleeve down or, press it down gently. It is literally paper thin. You can remove the flange after you install the sleeve if you clip it first. There are some good instructions online. These are from SKF but they are the same as the National. https://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eve/index.html
From here that yoke looks pretty good! I don't really see a grove. It needs to be polished. Resist the urge to use a coarse abrasive on the seal surface. The surface is actually ground to a micro finish. To bring it back treat it like you were honing a dull knife back to shave with. Fine paper then just paper, or leather for the final polish will work well. No scratches that you can feel with your fingernail are allowed. In manufacturing, the testing of a seal surface is literally done by dragging a weighted string across the surface. The seal can handle a little bit of wear. It wont work long however if the surface is the least bit rough or, the grove is several thousandths deep. The wear sleeves cost $20.