REASON I ASKED IS the exh pipe right after header is awful close to the connection for clutch and brake where all the pivot points are less than couple of inches would think it woud get hot,,,Attachment 2650
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REASON I ASKED IS the exh pipe right after header is awful close to the connection for clutch and brake where all the pivot points are less than couple of inches would think it woud get hot,,,Attachment 2650
Close is alright. Pipe temperatures are not too bad, just don't repair a brake leak until the exhaust cools down.
Here is some links to some folks with the same type of questions.
http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=89648
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...ewtopic&t=9472
http://www.surplusjeep.com/M38A1/Ima...0-%20M38A1.jpg
Much better to worry about something that turns out to be no big deal than the other way around!
there is a shield that separates the master cylinder from the heat source of the exh manifold pipe, due to its age it is probably asbestos, and it only shields the master cyl from heat. a new one costs 50.00 us dollars, i have the old one, it is somewhat beat up but usable. would you all use the old one?? could be replaced at a later date easy enough onlly two bolts secure it.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-mas...cj-3b-5-m38-a1
The original shield will do just fine. If it does have asbestos then it will do a much better job of dispersing any heat away from the master cylinder. Somewhere in my stash, I have an old pair of asbestos welding gloves. They are the best gloves I have ever used. Most of the heeps I have dealt with, the heat shields were either missing, or rusted away.
I'm hijacking a thread here, but this subject has come up so often I guess this is a good place to share it:
https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...r-broken-bolts
Of course this doesn't work as easily as the video with 800 pound cast iron blocks and broken exhaust studs...
transmission seal....
been reading some unfortunate reports on the seal that kaiser provides for the front end of transmission, that is just fails> also was told that novak has a seal/bearing to replace the thing that is a upgrade. you guys know more of this than i do, and taking the transmission down i found that 1st/reverse gear has some damage. needs to replace, now this transmission bought separate from orignial motor so ii is quite possible that this has some damage unlike the motor....
The sealing surface has a lot to do with the input shaft condition. I typically buy my seals from a place,(National Bearing) that sells bearings and seals. They can match up a national seal to match just about everything, and is a whole lot cheaper than a parts house. I don't have one close by to me currently, but is a couple of hours away. Novak would be high up on my list of vendors. They have well made fabricated parts, and keep good seals in stock. The unit bearing/seal would be cheap insurance to prevent you from having to tear out the transmission again.
"" cheap insurance to prevent you from having to tear out the transmission again.""THAT IS MY THOUGHT since i will be leaving this to either daughter of son , (will let them figure that out) dont want to not have it as correct and right as i can make it. think am going with novak