Glad to see and read about all the good stuff. I knew a saddle guy. Had them all the way back to the beginning in two barns. I would bet you know which one of those to drag along in every situation! Runs on gasoline. Like really old guys!
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Glad to see and read about all the good stuff. I knew a saddle guy. Had them all the way back to the beginning in two barns. I would bet you know which one of those to drag along in every situation! Runs on gasoline. Like really old guys!
i was a buck sgt in Marines at the time and married, caught holy hell when i spent the money, few years ago she wanted to sell the colt!! said for all the grief you gave me then Hell am gonna be buried with it, cocked ready to shoot some sob that tries to get if from cold dead hands
It is truly a treasure, unfired first gen smokeless powder colt saa, got several of them and this is my prize. got my great grandads 1851 navy colt also, carried at battle of Chicamagua and Missionary ridge, he captured it at Stones River. got several of his pistols, all those in photo with exception of one i real colt.... Got a box of 38 40 but darned, want to shoot it but never had a round thru it. probaby kill the value with a round thru it
On man oh man! Those Colts! I have always loved the SA Colt Army, what a nice set of Colts man.
I can look at the picture of that stove and go right back 50 years with my Dad. Way north in Canada, fishing for the elusive "Whitefish". Every morning you would come out of the tent and that smell of the food cooking on that stove.. Awesome stuff man. White gas in that thing right? You pump it up and build some pressure in the tank and fire it up? Man my dad would sling up some corned beef and hash and some bacon and hash browns, oh man. Classic coffee pot Ira! You are actually "livin' the dream"!
How can i measure vacuum without spending money on something i will probably ony use one time. Being told i need 20inches of vaccum
Under no load and high idle over 1500 rpm, you should easily have 20 inches. If your holding the RPM up around 1500 and the wipers aren't working, somethings up. I think you should have plenty of vacuum to run them. You have a good running engine. I am sure it has sufficient vacuum. In addition the military fuel pump has an auxiliary vacuum pump, running on top of the engine vacuum. When you pull the hose off at the wiper with the motor running can you feel good vacuum? Mine tugs on your finger tip fairly well. If you cant feel good vacuum at the wiper, something is amiss.
Mine tugs on your finger tip fairly well.
yES, AND THE THING STAYS ON FINGER ALL BY ITSELF, AND BOTH MOTORS ARE RESISTANT TO MOVE. ONE MOTOR GOES ONE WAY, THEN STOPS AND WILL NOT RETURN THE OTHER DIRECTION
I bought a NOS military surplus wiper motor. It was still all wrapped up in wax paper and looked pretty well preserved. It did the same as you describe. It started to go if I pushed on it, then it was slow and would not return again ever. I got a hold of the guy Geoff and Larry recommended. https://rebuildingtricowipers.com/ He said the vacuum wiper motors need to be operated "frequently" to keep them alive and never squirt anything into them. An interesting comment since I have read on the internet and in some re-published document, that you should squirt something in them. Anyway, I know my military surplus looked like it hadn't been "frequented" for about 70+ years. I ordered a NOS from him that he "goes through" and tests out ($$$.$$). He said he only had drivers side motors left, and no parts to rebuild them any more.
Those battles in the days when folks stepped into it and nary a one stayed silent or stepped lightly, in that particular fight for our motherland, respects to our first neighbors here long before us. I guarantee nothing manufactured in 2020 will be so valued or valuable, nor should be, 150 years hence, when the story of our time is told, as those old priceless armaments. My respect for the history held in those barrels, I guess they might bark it out if asked, makes the marrow in my bones sing deep and patriotic hymns! We once fought for unity, against all comers, winning it. Those coffee mornings with dad and some right tasty eggs the fruits of the victory earned by generations who were up for the fight to preserve a more perfect union, where all felt inalienable rights are worth protecting, especially keeping your brothers free at the cost of your own breath because Americans. And I'm glad you are showing the way with this motorized contraption to wash windscreens! That's ahead for my '64. Vacuum, man, it just ain't there when you need it..
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My grand dad used the 03 WWI, I used the m14 (until they intoed the m16)
years ago i bought a 03 that someone had clumsily tried to sporterize it. barrel was in great shape but all wood wa crap. new stock, bedded it, pput on winchester style safety, old weaver 6 power, timney trigger, man does it shoot those old remington barrel were hot, gave it to my son. built up a 1916 K98 an turned it into a sporter and gave that to oldest grandson, it shoots great shilen barrel, weaver K6, timney trigger, bedded it and also put on winchester style safety. am building a 3rd one for other grandson 1916 small ring model 98, shillen barrel for swede mauser 6.5, bedded and lot of stock work, it goes to him this summer. weapons of war now for peaceful use
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Pelago,
Your gunsmithing skills are top notch. Your rifles are museum quality pieces of art, and will be cherished for generations of your family.
I made a vacuum gage years ago for charging A/C systems in heavy equipment. It consisted of a sheet of plywood and some clear plastic tubing. The tubing was mounted to the board in a big U shape and then filled half way with colored water. You put a vacuum pump on the A/C system, with the tubing in line to the low side. The board was graduated in inches, so when you pulled a vacuum and held it, you could determine if you had a leak. Now a days, they have fancy machines that do it all for you. The same can be done for checking engine vacuum, but you must ensure that you have enough head space to prevent the water from getting ingested in the intake. The finger method works just as well for this purpose.
That is very impressive gunsmithing.
UPDATE ON WINDSHIELD WIPERS
Broke down and got a vacuum meter. coming off the "T" that joins the fuel pump vacuum and the intake manifold vacuum I had 20inches of vacuum (mike at Kaiser said it needs twenty inches to run") then it went to a off/on switch. at the engine side of the switch got 20 inches, at the other side going to the actual motors got less than 14inches. have found a new switch (lousy 28 bucks) waiting to see. if still does not work then back to Kaiser it goes. according to Mike at kaiser that is not enought to run motors
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I can tell you mine runs very fast with 20 and pretty good still at 16. About as fast as a 70's car on slow, with the motor at idle. I think 20 is a bunch. It should have no trouble running at 20 inches of mercury.
Hoping this gets solved. I was watching a YouTube resto, reminded of the very beginning parts of this build. The guy goes to fix one thing and three other things need fixed. would be nice to see it work out easily this time for Magoo, given the distance covered so far
if you might be a betting man, then cover my bet. IT WILL WORK, not so sure how it is gonna get fixed, but its gonna. i sent one motor in to kaiser and they supposedly rebuilt it, but it dont move period. that one will go back to them. they have always stood behind their products and work and i have no doubt that they will back it up
going back in time, the hardest thing is started with was getting 70yr old bolts free, Many times i said "what in the heck have you gotten yourself into" when i said the hell with getting them free and just cut the buggers off things got somewhat easier. but then again the total rebuild all came down to one thing and one thing only. IT WAS ONE BOLT AND NUT AT A TIME, NO MORE NO LESS
It seems like you are having a productive day modifying this car. I really hope that it will work since this project have kept you busy for a long time.
IT WAS ONE BOLT AND NUT AT A TIME, NO MORE NO LESS
A spin on your whole thread here. version of this I heard growing up was "touch it once". Then later in life "Do the right thing, do the thing right" is one I heard in the 1990's. Then I got my vintage vehicle and forgot everything. The number of things I did *** backwards is shameful. But this gem of your wisdom helps "keep the shiny side up and the greasy side down". One bolt at a time, no more, no less! I sure hope the darn thing works, we need wiper washers in these times to see clearly what lies ahead!
thanks.
Oneof the reasons i want the wipers other than the fact it came with them and the darn things worked once, is that i am putting full top sides and doors on the jeep. That way can have my buddy jake go with me fishing or whatever without putting a harness on him and tying his butt down. Full doors should do that
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Man that is a super nice representation of times gone by! Nice M38A1 Ira!
Now are you telling me that big boy wont sit right in the back off your right shoulder? That would be a good spot for a Wing-man. He would have your 3 and your 6.
W/s wiper motor for m38a1
picked up pne pf these, but it has two air intakes? Have no idea how it goes on and is attached
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That looks like a motor for an M38 not the M38A1. It looks like the style that goes up on the top of the windshield instead of the bottom.
now am confused... yeah goes on top and all three windhieds i have have them mounted on top?? this was listed for m38a1?
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My mistake Ira, it looks like they went on top on the A1's and the M38. It looks like you have the correct motor with the two outlets. Take a look at this post. It looks like the extra hose was for when they were under water!
https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=51770
Way to go! Does it work? Does it fit in place?
M38 is mounted to the bottom of the windshield.... Until I looked real close to the M38 that I had rolled through the rust ranch, it has the factory holes through the cross bar under the windshield, then there was the same holes above the glass. They are supposed to be below, but somewhere along the line someone punched new holes above. The soft top would have covered the holes if they were factory. The re-pop had the correct style of mounts, but this one had the electric motors.
I was thinking the M38 was like the 2A with the motors on top and the M38A1 was like the CJ3A with the wipers on the bottom. But now I cant find a picture of either M38's or M38A1's with the wiper anywhere else but on top. The M151's on the other hand have them on the bottom. The link I posted below sheds a lot of light.
https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=51770
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better photos of what i have
Those are the real deal. The extra hose goes to the air cleaner, according to that post.
Those look like new! Will be real nice as paperweights or bookends.. Sorry Sir, I'm out of line again. I know you will get them figured out. If somebody gives me the right Jeep numbers I'll go hunting for a picture from the history books of how they fit on back when, if it would be helpful.
I checked around the military sites and it seems that the line to the air cleaner was for the underwater fording. So when the motor diaphragm sucked in air it pulled it from the sealed up air cleaner system. I read in a few spots that it apparently never worked well and later model 50's era Military vehicles stopped using the extra hose.
This was interesting about a restriction in the vacuum line to the distributor/wiper motor tee,
From g503.com:
Apparently the tee at the junction of the vacuum supply from the vac pump/vacuum to the wipers/tube from the distributor has a reducer, being a .040 constriction in the center part of the tee from the ignitor- this is to keep the vacuum flow from the distributor down a bit, so the vacuum to the wipers is still good. The way I chose to do this (not having the original tee, regrettably) was to put JB Weld in the reducer fitting to the copper line to the ignitor (the line from the vacuum pump, & to the wiper motors is 1/4", the center of the tee to the distributor is reduced to 3/16") and when fully cured I drilled a hole in the JB Weld with an .040 drill bit. Others have used other methods but that seemed an easy way to do it.