Just took cable off and was able to highlight the a,b.c so i could quickly see it and id it, lantern battery on shopping list, need one anyway
Printable View
Just took cable off and was able to highlight the a,b.c so i could quickly see it and id it, lantern battery on shopping list, need one anyway
DAMN.......... got out the manual to id ABC no they could not do that they just have arrows pointing to the three wires and saying field and armature but no A, B, or C HAVE NO IDEA WHAT A IS OR WHAT B IS OR WHAT C IS. MANUAL ZERO HELP
Pelago,
It took me a little bit, but I found what I was looking for. This link should set you up.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...531&highlight=
I read gmwillys' thread and here is the picture of the connector, with pins showing!
And now I know the last of the connector part number ...
MSxxxx-22-2S on the generator, MSxxxx-22-2P on the harness.
(22 is the shell size, 2 is the contact arrangement and P/S is pin/socket)
Dern, we're gettin' smart here.
This item here is great... Upper echelon maintenance not user/operator clean battery cable maintenance tm 9-1825b . Going to do first part soon, now that identified b is what i want.
Kinda worried about taking cover off regulator.. All screws broken loose but one and probably will have to dremel remove it. BUT WONT I STILL HAVE TO POLARIZE REG, NOT SURE I UNDERSTAND THIS, NO, I UNDERSTAND THE POLARIZATION, BUT MAYBE DID A DUMB THING BUT SINCE IT WAS RUNNING AND USED SAME PARTS AS ORIGINAL THOUGHT WHY NOT JUST PUT IT TOGETHER AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS AND IT WAS PUTTING OUT 27-29 VOLTS AT STARTER (WHERE I PUT VOLTMETER) THEN IT STOPPED??
Is this the same as hitting the field with a 6volt lantern battery?
since am going to be touching a 24vdc hot lead to pin think i will reverse that and leave one connector?aligator lead to the pin and make the weld spot on the battery lead on the starter....that way wont have a weld spot on that exp cable
If the regulator wasn't polarized from the start, you would not have been getting your 27 to 29 volts. No, it wasn't a dumb thing to hook up and run. Unless new parts are added to the regulator of generator, then there would have been no need to re-polarize. I've seen guys that were insistent on polarizing each and every time they unhooked the wires. It doesn't hurt anything to be too cautious. With that being said, if you take a die grinder to hardware, then it would be a good idea to polarize afterward.
One stinking screw just wont budge and not too keen on a torch on painted surface, but think i can get dremel cutter in there and cut head off, if i have to.. have never been inside one of these, ever even the old ford type. but now have manual?? but if it is pieces or parts bad, not going to be any good unless it is rectifier/whatever is in there or maybe resistor? not going to get any parts, so if i do the other test and am at still reading batt voltage at starter, then not charging and i cant help but think generator good, it is built like a tank, maybe brushes and you can get those, along with some other stuff in repair kit and have found regulators supposedly for this make and model jeep
and if i gotta touch hot lead will be touching hot lead to battery/starter and leave weld spot there
The filter, capacitor, R4 and the rectifier are all parts added to reduce interference in the radio package on the M38A1. They don't do anything in regard to the generator's basic charging function.
I'd clean relay contact points with 400 or 600 grit emery paper then wash away grit and crud with a piece of typing paper wet down with alcohol of contact cleaner. Be careful not to bend things.
Ira:
Just pretend there is some booze in there. A Marine can open just about anything if there is booze to be found.
Oh, by the way - my wife started taking vancomycin for a stomach infection today. I sounded like I knew what I was talking about when the Dr. started telling us about it since I had looked it up while I was trying to figure out your message last week.
How are you doing?