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After removing all drivetrain related equipment including engine on the '59 CJ5, I replaced the old rope rear main oil seal with the neoprene unit. I thought I followed all the instructions; including a dose of RTV sealant, torqued everything down and reinstalled. I still have a leak! I'll get under there soon and check torque on the oil pan bolts, etc. But in the end looks like I'll have to live with it.
Those bolts don't have to be "farmer tight". The metal on the lip of the pan is fairly thin and if you overtighten the bolts, you distort the lip and make it very hard to seal properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldfireguy
Yes, just making sure all around. 9-14 lb
The rear main bearing cap to block is a nightmare to seal. It seals the crank at the main seal but, it uses two expanding rubber plugs on the sides of the cap to seal the block. The pan is supposed to compress these plugs when you tighten it up. This forces the seal. It also holds the pan off making it tough to seal the pan right there in the back where everything wants to leak. In addition, it needs sealant at the bearing split to the block. I would wager you have a good seal at the main, and it's sneaking out of one of the other places. Unless you feel like pulling the rear main cap, let er drip! One thing is for ABSOLUTE certain, between the Dana 18, the front steering knuckles, the steering box and the motor in general, these baby's have plenty of opportunities to leak.
Yes, I'm willing to accept the "nature of the beast"! It's running great. I'm actually driving the rolling chassis right now complete with wooden seat that I built. I just wanted to make sure the new overdrive worked before putting it all back together.
It is nearly a requirement on this forum to display a photograph of any members driving a body off with a wooden seat.
I'll second that motion. Oil leaks are a nature of the beast. The oil pan was probably over torqued in the past, and is not flat enough to seal when you followed the manual.
have been notified of this fact. Old jeeps like old men we leak sometimes, i replaced every single seal that could be replaced, on transfer case and transmission. Did it right and tight. Leaks.... And my rear main if i left it alone would leak a quart in about 14years, but a leak is a leakQuote:
Originally Posted by oldfireguy
am in the process of factory rebuild on 134f motor now and decided to let the pros to the rear/front seals and the crank bearings. That way if it leaks can go to them and say "leaks"
Here she is...
Attachment 5816
Love it! The fire extinguisher set remotely out of the driver's reach shows confidence!
Totally Love it!! Got to have a drive by shot man. We need to be sure it moves.
HaHa, good point regarding extinguisher. I'm retired FD too! I'll try and post some video later.
Do old Willys burn? With such a "Rock Solid" cloth covered unprotected wiring system, the thought of an electrical fire starter never enters the mind!Quote:
Originally Posted by gmwillys
The Horn is my favorite wiring setup.
Some of my projects required the fire extinguisher to be manned, with the safety pin pulled. The retired FD in you shows safety, but the confidence that all will go right with it sitting in front of the rad. The old cloth wiring doesn't have too bad of a tendency to flame up as one would think. It does have a distinctive smell when it gets hot though. I had been given a spool of 6 pair Nomex covered wire by a former neighbor. Each strand was wrapped in color coded Nomex. It was great stuff to use to build harnesses in high heat areas. I used the last bit of the roll on the 2A, just because it looks like the original fabric covered wires.
That looks like the old 40's 50's wire no doubt!