1957 cj-5

Jeep2.jpg (17.7 KB)T Jeep1.jpg (18.0 KB) Jeep3.jpg (43.2 KB) Jeep4.jpg (40.2 KB) Jeep5.jpg (42.4 KB) Trying to start my thread and post a few pictures. The first two are the only ones I have before I started. The Jeep was painted in a John Deere green and yellow paint scheme. The first obvious thing that had to be changed. I first decided to just clean up the engine and paint it up, but then evolved into taking everything apart on the front and shining up the frame, then evolved into a whole new body tub that I haven't got yet. Got a long way to go before I get to that.

Trying to figure this out. Not the easiest thing I have ever encountered.

Jeep6.jpg (43.5 KB) Jeep7.jpg (39.9 KB) Jeep8.jpg (42.5 KB) Jeep9.jpg (54.5 KB) Got the body off and outside. Now I have the differential and springs off the back and I'm cleaning up parts and painting and cleaning up the frame to paint. Been putting in new seals in everything as well as new brake lines. It had new springs. If I had it to do over again I would have pulled the engine and tranny and completely stripped the frame and had it sandblasted. Would have saved me some time.

We had a little snow and cold today, but they're saying the weather is going to gradually warm and work its way up to near 70 so that means I have a chance to get that differential cleaned up and painted and the frame painted. I'm looking forward to putting it back together.

Looking awesome man! She cleans up pretty good!

On posting the pic's, it looks like you have it figured out. You have to go to "Go Advanced" and then "Manage Attachments". Then you have to browse for a file and upload it. One at a time. There is a limit on the individual file size listed, and a limit on the number of files, that you figure out when it wont take any more.

I couldn't figure out how to post them from my phone, so I e-mailed them to myself, then moved them to a folder and went from there.

Wow! I do not know how some of you can operate so well on that phone! I need a BIG screen, BIG keyboard. The thought of trying to do that on the "Star Trek" communicator scares me.

WOW okiemark your project looks GREAT.........

Well done!

Got my body kit today. Looked good. It said some holes might have to be drilled. I didn't see any holes, so they might mean all holes.

There will be a few don't worry! For sure you will have to drill the body mounts. See my post. I covered what I had to do to my 3A body kit. Just make sure you start with the front end. Put on the grill and the fenders and fasten them loosely. Then put on the tub and line it up as best you can. You will see there is a body ""hat channel" that will pretty much line up with the frame holes when all is well.

On mine I had to have the firewall modified by the body shop. It hit the motor in the back at the throttle linkage bracket before the tub would come all the way forward.

I looked at the fenders and noticed the piece that stiffens the fender about half way extends to bolt to the frame on my old fenders, but that piece doesn't extend down on the new fenders. Is this an issue?

Cleaning hubs and brake drums and anything else I can get my hands on. I guess I'm making progress. Decided to put a U-joint in the front drive shaft and it about ate me up. The needle cups didn't want to go in straight and it made it hard to get the other cup on, so naturally I ended up with a needle down. Been a long time since I did that. I think the yoke might have been sprung a little.

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Originally Posted by okiemark

I looked at the fenders and noticed the piece that stiffens the fender about half way extends to bolt to the frame on my old fenders, but that piece doesn't extend down on the new fenders. Is this an issue?

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Can you get a pic of that? Is the original brace a PO add on maybe?

It extends down from the fender along side the frame. Has two bolts that go through it into the frame. I'll take some pictures.

If your original fender supports are not too rotten, (often they rot around the place where it is spot welded to the fender) cut what you need to get what you need to finish the mount. Is it crucial? No, your fenders will not fall off, but I would fix it just because it's supposed to be. These mounts are the only points that directly tie the fenders to the frame. I replaced the pieces on our '46, and the fenders were much sturdier then they were before they were repaired.

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Originally Posted by gmwillys

If your original fender supports are not too rotten, (often they rot around the place where it is spot welded to the fender) cut what you need to get what you need to finish the mount. Is it crucial? No, your fenders will not fall off, but I would fix it just because it's supposed to be. These mounts are the only points that directly tie the fenders to the frame. I replaced the pieces on our '46, and the fenders were much sturdier then they were before they were repaired.

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gm do the CJ5 fenders mount like the cj2 and 3's ? Is he missing the main bracket that holds the fender to the frame? I didn't think the CJ5 had that big center brace to the frame. On an older CJ that is the main mounting. Why would they (manufactures) have left that off?

The M38A1 did still have the main brace to the frame. The fenders for the A1 mounted in the same fashion as the flat fenders.

I too thought about cutting off some of the old bracket and add it on the new fender. I'll put on pictures when I get a chance. The fact that the CJ-5 grill mounts at one point in the middle worries me that it might want to lean to one side or the other if it isn't held there. I'm going to be crossing that bridge in maybe a couple of weeks.

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Well, I've been at it pretty steadily, finally got the frame shined up pretty good. The hardest and most tedious part is inside the channels, but did the best I could. Got the new rear crossmember/bumper put on, got the rear differential painted and back in and back inside before the big rain about a week ago.

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Got a picture showing the backing plates cleaned up and painted with the new shoes on and ready to put on the differential. And three pictures showing how it looks. Now I have all the new brake lines put on and the drive shafts put back in after replacing the transfer case seals. The oil that came out of the transfer case and tranny looked a little nasty and I think some water had gotten in there. Am thinking about flushing it out with some diesel before I put the 90 wt back in.

As for the paint colors. The engine was originally red. The body color was red but I'm not sure if the engine and body color was the same. I painted the engine and bell housing International Harvestor red. The valve cover and side color appeared to be aluminum or silver so that's what I went back with. I did change a couple of things to black like the fan and timing cover, and to add a modern touch the oil dipstick/cap is yellow.

Your doing a nice job there Mark
Keep up the good work and you’ll have a Beauty!!!

That is looking excellent!

Great job!

Decided I would put brake fluid in the master cylinder and test the new parts. Of course, there was one brake line connection I had failed to tighten completely and then developed a leak at the master cylinder. Thought it was where one of the brake lines screwed into the manifold, but that wasn't the case. It was at the crush washers where the manifold is bolted to the cylinder. Took it off and to my surprise someone had put in a crush washer that was too thin and wasn't even copper. That triggered another order from KW. Decided to pull the pan and clean it up inside and out now.

Man, I leaked on mine also. Got it all together and the crush washer at the master leaked. I really had to tighten that sucker. It of course ruined the new paint on the heat shield below the leak.

Well, that was one of the few things I didn't take apart as the master cylinder looked pretty new. The last guy fudged and put a washer in there that didn't belong.

The previous guy who put the pan on sure did like his silicone. I could see it bulging out between the pan and the block so that made me want to pull it off. Gave me a chance to clean out the gunk in the bottom of the pan but everything else on the bottom looks good. I'm not a fan of the clear silicone for engine gaskets. I like to glue the gasket on the pan or valve cover with weatherstrip adhesive so it can dry and not slip, then use a very small amount of heat resistant silicone between the gasket and block.

Yes I agree, a good sign to pull the pan off. There are a few spots where it works fantastic. In general it must be kept out of the motor that's for sure. It will harden in the oil and drift around. It can really "gum" up the works! I also like to use only an adhesive like High Tack. If the surfaces are good, often I use nothing. Especially if that's the way it was originally assembled, and there were no signs of leaks, and I am using high quality gaskets.

Getting a look inside the oil pan at the rods and mains is great! A great chance to clean out any crud. It sounds like your in great shape. A nice way to see if anything scary is going on!

If the previous guy tightened the pan bolts "farmer tight" (as tight as they will go, then another half-turn) and overcompressed the pan gasket, you may have enough ripple and distortion to the bolt flange on the pan that getting a seal will be a problem. A flat flange seals up nicely with just a fresh gasket and PermaTex High Tak, but if there is a ripple in the pan, you may need something more flexible to conform to the waves and ripples.

Good luck

Hey, watch it talking about us farmers! The rule is to tighten until right before it twists off you know. Actually most of the farmers I know are either pretty good mechanics or don't mechanic at all. But the pan looks pretty good. Looks like something poked a small hole up toward the front and it got patched. Glad I pulled it off because the silicone was squished to the inside worse than it was to the outside. I peeled at least a small handful of clear silicone around the inside. Jeep15.jpg (59.3 KB)

Hey, I'm a farm boy - at least I started out there.

I've seen my GrandPa put one of those old square headed adjustable wrenches that look like a pipe wrench on a square nut, then take a 2-pound hammer and whack it a couple of times to get it good and tight.

Now that you have the pan off, are you going to take off any bearing caps to look at bearings and crank conditions?

Well, I hadn't thought of that. I did push on them and could get a little side to side movement but no up and down. The motor ran and sounded so good I thought I was OK there.

Okiemark, awesome job. Your jeep is turning out great and look's like your having lots of fun. Like your garage and work area. You have inspired me to convert mine to a better work place. Still trying to work out the issues with the wifey why my jeeps inside and her car is outside. O well !!! Keep sending in your pictures. Love seeing you transform that jeep into a masterpiece. Jim

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Originally Posted by okiemark

Well, I hadn't thought of that. I did push on them and could get a little side to side movement but no up and down. The motor ran and sounded so good I thought I was OK there.

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If you don't want to "crack the caps" and take a peak, Be sure of a few things since you are close to being right on top of any problems. Since it ran well and no knocking sounds, it would indicate nothing is catastrophic in the bearings. If it had good oil pressure, more than 2 at idle and at least 40psi, while running warm, with 30 weight oil, You are probably safe in not pulling the caps. A little side to side play should not exceed .010" inch measured with a feeler gauge (at least not by much).

Well, there was no oil pressure gauge, so I can't say for sure about the oil pressure. I'll take another look. Would new rod bearings get the side play back to normal if that is a problem and will the bearings say on them if they are standard?

No the side to side is controlled by the rods and crank themselves. I doubt there is a problem there, unless you spun a bearing. You would know that by the knocking sound when it was running.

Yes the bearings should say on the backside. They will be stamped std,.010 etc. It wouldn't hurt to take a look at the #1 rod bearing if you had any concerns at all. That's the weak link in the L and F 134's. That bearing is a little "starved" for oil at idle and low RPM.

Maybe I didn't say it right. The movement was front to back actually, side to side might have been misleading.

I think I understood what you mean. Front to back on the engine or side to side on the rod.