47 Willys Oil return line plugged

After fixinf the Mickey mouse oil return line, I went to install the line to the correct hole and learned the previous mechanics have inserted a brass plug with a flat style driver slot. I have no room to remove this, nor is there any room to drill this out. I have no idea how to remove this. The motor mount prevents a drill from being used , I used a small ratchet style wrench with flat bit and was not able to remove it. I sprayed it with free all and heated it slightly , any suggestions woudl be great. I am so close to having this running again. These are all the new parts thus far : Radiator, Water pump, oil lines, oil pressure indicator lines, Fuel gauge sending unit, Head machined, New valve cover gasket and new copper head gasket, New studs/Bolts, Thermostat, New fan, Belt, Spark plugs, new radiator lines, Multiple grade 8 bolts etc.

I have a right angle Dewalt drill that is a handy son of a gun sometimes, but I don't think I could get even that in that space.

AWhhh man.

And, in my nightmares I can see trying to get to that plug, getting a bit crossways and breaking off half of the slot ion that brittle brass.

Wild Idea 1: Pull the driver side fender to get access? A lot of work, but less work than pulling the engine to get to it. While the fender is off, you get easier access to the fuel pump ...

Wild Idea 2: In the attached picture you see the line that takes oil to the rocker arm on the F-134. There is an oil port just above the oil sensor hole. Does the L-134 block have a port there? You could use that as a supply line to the filter.

Wild Idea 3: Bad idea, but the oil filter is a partial flow filter, better than no filter but it still isn't that great of a filter. Just change oil every 3K miles or every year - which ever comes first.

Question to the group: Is there another plug on that block we don't use that gives access to an oil gallery

The key here is to grab the pressurized oil and send it to the top of the filter. The port that plug is in, is in the front of the main oil galley, the best place to get it right after the pump picks it up. That said, it could go on the other end of the oil galley where the oil pressure gauge port is. okiemark has the right thought. A right angle small chuck drill should work. I have a Milwaukee also, however I have a cheap Harbor Freight right angle air drill that is very small. You may need to shorten a drill bit. I have also used a cable drive Dremmell in very tight spots. I hope you can get it out, it would be nice to "un-hack that".

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...ill-67474.html

You know, I might be able to get in there with a cut off bit. It is hard to tell from the photo, but that is worth a look. If you could get a hole in it, an EZ out might bring it out.

Just bring some Band-Aids, send the wife shopping and run the grandkids out of the garage. It ain't gonna be fun!

There is just enough of the plug sticking out to clamp a good pair of Vise Grips on. Looks like you may have tried that once, but you might get lucky. If that fails, a chisel, hammer and some patience to tap the edge and create a notch to turn the fitting out.

Hopefully they used some good sealant that would keep it from seizing.

I was able to remove it with finger drill and heat. Oddly enough only took about a hour. I have it running now. However after the engine warms up , it seems to load up/flood when accelerator pedal is pressed , i then have to feather the accelerator in attempt to keep it running? I hope this makes sense. I think the carb needs a rebuild? Temp is good , not overheating.

That's how it is now. They had a mess. I would like to post a image. I cannot upload in forum?

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Originally Posted by Bradhoffmeister

That's how it is now. They had a mess. I would like to post a image. I cannot upload in forum?

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1. Take your picture and store it on your device or computer

2. Log into the Forum. Select a topic.

3. Write your story.

4. Roll down the page past the end of the message box, past the Icons, past "Submit Reply" down to the "Manage Attachments" grey box.

5. Click/select the "Manage Attachments" box.

6. A Menu will pop up called "Manage Attachments, Upload files from your computer"

7. Select the "Choose File" box and go to the image or picture you want to upload. Select it.

8. Once you select it, hit the "Upload" box and off it will go. There will be a little line at the bottom showing upload progress in %. When it is done, a box titled "Current Attachments" will pop up showing how many images you have attached. If you want to post another picture, repeat the process. Otherwise select "Close this window".

9. You can "Preview Post" to make sure that what you want to post is there. There is a limit of five attachments to any one post. Your images will show up as "Attached Thumbnails". They are stored as pretty low resolution images, so they don't enlarge very well.

It is easier than it sounds here. It's best not to embed images in the text of a post because some browsers will open the picture, but will log you out of the forum when you try to go back.

"I think the carb needs a rebuild? Temp is good , not overheating."

If you have it idling well, not smoking, not leaking or dripping too badly and not overheating - you are well into the game. Congratulations!

Most carburetors will need a rebuild. The accelerator pump usually dries out or splits and it is amazing how much crud will accumulate in all the little passages. There is a lot of good rebuild information on the CJ pages. I bought a cheap set of those little bitty drills from Horribal Frate to use to clean out passages in the Carter YF. Buy a good rebuild kit - take pictures when you tear it down.

I was able to remove it, with a few f bombs and 2 busted knuckles. LOL, Worth every moment at this point. This has become a labor of love. All is well for the most part. As mentioned before, the carb needs rebuilt. I am in crunch mode. I had expectations to have it ready for the memorial day parade. Most local shops have no idea how to rebuild a carb as everything is injected. I live in NKY/Cincinnati Ohio. The only guy I know has his shop shut down. Performance Off Road. Roy Carl he is not far from the house in Alexandria. He is well know in the Jeep world. I will reach out and see if he can do me a favor?

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Originally Posted by Bradhoffmeister

I had expectations to have it ready for the memorial day parade.

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All of our Memorial Day Parades were canceled, CV-19.

Here is a good set of info on the Carter WO:

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/c...topic6161.html

Resist the temptation to put a SOLEX on it. Those were after market carburetors and while they might have been OK originally, they have been outsourced a number of times and their quality has gotten questionable. It's not that we are prejudiced, but here is our advice for a SOLEX:

1. Wait until dark and throw it as far out the shop door as you can.

2. When it gets light, have a friend go out in the field and find it. When he finds it, dig a hole and bury it.

3. Never ask the friend where it is buried.

Don't be surprised if you end up needing a fuel pressure regulator between the pump and the carb. They don't need much fuel pressure, the YF on the '48 only wants about 2 PSI and it has no fuel starvation issues! Rebuilt fuel pumps can put out 10 PSI or more and the float/needle just won't close it off in many cases. A Mr. Gasket 9710 regulator has worked well for many of us. Set it, paint it to match the engine and it's not too obvious.

These carbs aren't that difficult. I got a kit from KW, but the thing is there was zero instructions and no parts view like on most kits I have seen before, so it is important to take pictures of the linkages, etc. You can buy a gallon can of cleaner at the parts store, soak it in there, rinse it out with water and blow out with air, just make sure it is super clean.

Carburetor master rebuild kit Carter WO carb , I was told Napa and KOI have the lots but they cannot locate the kit. Anyone have kits numbers

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Originally Posted by Bradhoffmeister

Carburetor master rebuild kit Carter WO carb , I was told Napa and KOI have the lots but they cannot locate the kit. Anyone have kits numbers

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KWAS has it ... but just not instantly

How-to's:


http://www.cj-2a.com/documentation/m...W0_service.pdf

https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/2...mageId=9567841

And a YouTube video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VwQtjUOAmk

Parts ordered today, Wish me luck on my next adventure. Thank you for the reply

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bradhoffmeister

That's how it is now. They had a mess. I would like to post a image. I cannot upload in forum?

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More on posting a photo, what Larry said.

https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...re-in-a-thread

When I rebuilt mine, I tore it down and put it in the cleaner right after I ordered my kit. When I got it, as I said, there were no instructions or an exploded view like I expected and I had to go on You Tube to make sure how a couple of things went.

There are a few things that can need a little fine tuning but as okiemark said You Tube has you covered. I would order one of these https://www.kaiserwillys.com/carbure...-station-wagon it just makes things so much quicker. When you get your new kit be very sure to run a very fine wire through the idle jet. The type of jet that is in there, uses a long tube crimped to the jet size. It is tiny and very prone to plugging. Brand new from sitting, they can form small pieces of corrosion from the brass. It is sometimes so small you can barely see it when you wire it out. That is the source of many on the "net" who say I rebuilt it and it won't idle without the choke on.

I think those two (rod adjust/idle jet) things are the only real "tricks" in the WO. Like any rebuld, clean very clean. I have great success with a large tank sonic cleaner filled with solution made for carbs and such in a sonic cleaner.

Edit: one more thing. One thing that got me was the gasket under the carb to the intake. The original and mine, uses "crush sleeves" under and around the carb studs. You need to be sure you compress the sleeves sufficiently to seal the gasket and the studs. As the sleeve compresses it seals against the stud. As they compress they compress the gasket. You need to pull those nuts down evenly a little at a time from side to side. If you crank down one side to much it will break the throttle body. The throttle body is cast iron, it can take a lot more than an aluminum base carb, it has its limits however. I did not tighten mine enough and drove LarrBeard around with the idle at 1200 and it running hot from the vacuum leak. He had to sacrifice his coffee cup to save it.

Thank you again, I located a kit. One the way. Since posting the ignition coil went out. The only part of not replace thus far is fuel tank. I have more than I can get out of her now. God speed! I cannot wait to drive it again.