cylinder head question - Never saw this before

So I was removing cylinder head from spare engine and Did not notice this until I got it off. 3 of the 4 spark plug holes have some kind of adapter in them. I do not see how this works as the electrode would not even stick through the head. I can only suspect these were an attempt to fix a stripped hole, but hard to believe 3 of 4 were stripped. If they did 3, why not just do the 4th one for consistency.

Has anyone seen this and explain? does this even work? Pics attached.

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Haven't seen one of those for a long time John! Those are "Anti-Foulers" or "Non-Foulers". The idea was if the motor was burning so much oil that it rapidly fouled the plugs, this device would help keep the oil out of the electrode. I don't really think they worked but, they sold them and still do. The device pulls the electrode out of the combustion chamber, not a good thing. It also adds several cc's to the combustion chamber volume reducing compression. One of those snake oil things.

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Originally Posted by bmorgil

Haven't seen one of those for a long time John! Those are "Anti-Foulers" or "Non-Foulers". The idea was if the motor was burning so much oil that it rapidly fouled the plugs, this device would help keep the oil out of the electrode. I don't really think they worked but, they sold them and still do. The device pulls the electrode out of the combustion chamber, not a good thing. It also adds several cc's to the combustion chamber volume reducing compression. One of those snake oil things.

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VERY INTERESTING!!!.

You really impress me with your wealth of knowledge, LOL. Do I dare ask how long you have been into jeeps and just how many you have worked on?

So, I am after this head as I have a broken bolt in 48 on the water pump housing. Should not be to critical, but I am struggling to get it out. I have drilled and used an extractor, and broke the chuck of the extractor twisting on it (cheap one) I then put a wrench on the extractor bit itself, and am worried about breaking it off. Been trying to do this while on the jeep as everything runs nicely. So, I thought I would just pull the head off my spare engine and make a quick swap and deal with it off the engine or maybe even take it to a machinist. At this point, I am thinking it just needs to be drilled out, and if the bolt threads get damaged, use a helecoil type thread repair.

In any event, I am assuming these Non-Fouler devices can just be screwed out and I should be able to clean up the head and put it on my 48.

I was worried that these were somehow locked in place or that the spark plug hoes were drilled and tapped, but that sounds unlikely. From what you say, these were probably just screwed in. I will give a go to try to wrench these out after I get some penetrating oil on them. Hopefully they pop right out. This was really the only odd thing I found with this spare head.

Thank you so much for your sharing your wealth of knowledge.

John

John, bmorgil IS a wealth of knowledge for sure!!!!
As far as the broken bolt, is it broke off flush?
You may be able (if you have a welder) to weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt then spray it with some PB blaster and let it cool. Sometimes between the heat and the blaster they work together to loosen the rust and you may be able to extract it out with a wrench.
Just a Bubba Trick I’ve used before :cool:

Growing up a mechanic and spending a good deal of time around Toledo, keeps you very close to Jeeps!They have always been everywhere around here. I have worked on and been around and helped compete many, from coast to coast. I am an old dog! Surprisingly, my 50' is the first Jeep that I have owned.

TJ's tip on broken bolt extraction is by far my favorite. If you can get a nut over the top and get a good hot weld on it, then cool it with wax or oil, that's as good as it gets. If it is broken off under flush there is a way to drill it out and not cause too much trouble. Let us know how its going. If you are rebuilding the motor, the head needs to go to machine shop anyway to be sure it is flat. They pluck/drill/machine those broken bolts out like there's nothing to it.

The non-foulers should come right out. I am sure they are tight. If the threads are exposed on the combustion chamber side, clean them up first. If they are messed up it will ruin the threads in the head on on the way out.

You are welcome John, this forum and its members provide a wealth of knowledge! The more we all hammer this stuff out the wealthier we get!

Bmorgil is our resident all-around guru of just about everything! The non-foulers used to be found on a lot of gas-powered auction equipment. Our 2A had them on three of the four cylinders before it was repaired. Along with the non-foulers, it was also running two cycle chain saw plugs. Needless to say, there would be no mosquitos within a mile of the Heep running.

You all are too kind.

The non foulers and 2 cycle plugs are a testament to the little Go Devils heart. Even though its a low compression engine, with the rings gone and pumping oil, it still wont quit!

They are like Timex Watch they just keep on ticking;);)

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Originally Posted by gmwillys

Bmorgil is our resident all-around guru of just about everything! The non-foulers used to be found on a lot of gas-powered auction equipment. Our 2A had them on three of the four cylinders before it was repaired. Along with the non-foulers, it was also running two cycle chain saw plugs. Needless to say, there would be no mosquitos within a mile of the Heep running.

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This is hilareous, The subject head from my spare motor has the non-foulers on 3 of 4 cylinders and also has 2-cycle chain saw plugs!! Did I end up with your ole engine????

Update - OK, So I went out to remove the non-fowlers from the head. With a little persuading from my breaker bar, 2 of them broke free relatively easily.

When I went to do the third one, the socket was to big. So I found a different socket and was unable to turn it. Socket slipped on the non-fouler and rounded it off. actually, it appeared semi stripped already, but I thought my 6 sided socket would bite.

Then I drilled it out some and tried to use a thread extractor. Could not get it to budge and backed off for fear of breaking the extractor. In all honesty, I think I am to concervative when using these and always fearful of breaking them off. In any event, I found different socket that bit on it a little more, then broke off the top part of the non-fouler. In hindsite, I think drilling it out weakened it.

So now I have two different heads each with broken bolts or fittings, arg!!!

I have always been fairly successful with broken bolts and fittings on my motorcycle projects. In any event, I had to set this aside as it is time to get ready for deer hunting this week. I will tackle it later.

Someone talked about welding and I know about that process. I do have a welder, but am not a very good welder for one, and also, my welder is a small wirefeed welder intended more for sheet metal. When I look at how this is done, they tend to use a larger arc welder, not sure my welder would get things hot enough. I need to practice my welding skills some.

later,
John

Take em' to the shop John. While they have them, ask them to boil them clean and check them for flat. If the threads need repair they will have the stuff right there.

Or, soak them in penetrating oil and use heat. A lot of heat. Turn the fouler a little red. Quench it in wax. Last resort is to continue to drill until you can take a small chisel and collapse the drilled thin wall inward and pick it out of the threads. You definitely want to avoid ruining the threads in the head. If you do, a thread insert will fix it. The biggest danger is drilling it off center. If that happens just don't drill to big. Cut it down until you can start to carefully chisel it out.

John,

No such luck. I still have the same engine in our Heep that was in it when it was purchased. My Granddad had it for a while for use on their farm, and he went through and replaced the one piston that had a hole in it, then freshened up the bearings and rings. He didn't believe in spending more than one had to perform repairs. He passed in 2003, so it was done some time in 2001 or early 2002, but it has been smoke free ever since.