Tie rod ends

Need some insight on the protection of tie rod grease. It seems there were different methods back in the day. I currently have 2 brand new sets of tie rod ends for my all new 51 cj3a under construction. One from KW with a huge rubber boot that makes it almost impossible to thread it, let alone tighten it, which will completely crush the boot. The other has only the concave metal washer and a spring. There is also a felt washer that was used from what I’m learning. Any idea which is correct for my year and if it doesn’t matter, what is best.
Thanks
Tom

I think the spring and washer is the original idea. However, I have the KW's on mine and they work well. Snap a picture of the boot. It shouldn't be that bad of a crush.

Well, I went ahead and bought the spring and washer pieces, along with NOS tubes, bell crank, and kit. The bell crank and kit I bought were correct, matched the old stuff exactly and has been installed as directed. KW’s did not fit. There are two sizes I’ve learned, early 2a is one and late 2a/3a is another... back to tie rods, I really like the spring look and if you say it is fine for a parade/show only Jeep that will never see mud on my watch, then I will go with it. Looks really old school... Pics of both attached as requested. As always, thanks for you help.
Tom

That early 2A/late 2A bug has bitten many people.

The rubber boots are correct. They will work fine. The spring and washer is very cool old school!

Thanks gentlemen.... spring and washer it is! I think it looks way better. I’ll keep the rubber ones and tubes as spare parts for me or the next owner, if I don’t keep it, which I may... However, I have a bell crank and kit that I believe would be correct for an early 2a, free to a good home. Where it weighs a bit, I would ask the recipient to pay shipping. It is brand new from KW.

KW is excellent. They will take that part right back. Just give them a call for an RA number. I switched around a few parts getting an early 3A restored!