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Another thread brought to my attention that the ignition switch location in the replacement CJ3A tubs is usually in the wrong location. I just checked mine and, according to the thread, it is wrong as the hole is located just right of center (the CJ2A location). I don’t know the correct location for the CJ3A ignition switch but shouldn’t be too hard to learn. Are there any other similar errors besides the mounting and pedal holes a person should be aware of if trying for accuracy?
51, there is a lot. I wrote up all the issues I had with mine 2 years ago here on this Forum. In the CJ3A page there is an entire section written up several years ago. The Forum members were lucky enough to have the Quality Manager from Juan tubs in Puerto Rico (correction: I meant the Philippines) (Where 90% of the tubs come from) join the forum. They beat him up pretty good and eventually he even bought a CJ to restore! Through the course of a year or so, they were able to fix a lot of things. A must read if you want to see how these tubs were made and corrected and how to identify what production change you might have. You can also search for "Juan" in the CJ3A/3B Forum, here on this Forum and in Google. You will learn a lot about these Tubs and where they come from. I cant remember what page it is in my post where I recapped, but it is near the end of my project. On mine the biggest problems were The windshield fit, the firewall behind the engine, and the start switch hole had to be patched (CJ2A location wrong spot). I transferred the location from my old tub. Let me know if you need the location.
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=3858.0
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...A-First-Willys
I started looking at CJ3A pictures last night to get the key location but found out they are all over the place. Mine in the old CJ2A tub is by my left knee when in the left seat. I have a horn button, choke and key lined up low on the panel and left of the steering column. I saw CJ3A pictures of the key there, higher and farther left. The location should be in the manuals somewhere. I don’t recall off the top of my head when I bought the new tub. 4 or 5 years maybe. I was thinking all of the tubs come from the Philippines.
Thanks for the links!
Whoops I meant the Philippines! Age is creeping up on me. The location is visible in the manuals. The best way is to find a known original. I can tell you exactly where it goes if you need it. Some put it wherever they want. It was in a very specific place originally to match the owners manual. The photo I attached earlier is my many color original dash. The blurry pick here is the new dash. The switch has the yellow star hanging on it. That is the original CJ3A location.
That’s not where I expected! Thanks for the picture. Age seems to be getting to me too. I wrote the check for the new tub in Feb 2019. It’s been sitting on saw horses since it arrived. I still need to decide how I want to treat the frame. I have been looking at e-coat but finding a place around here just to dip a frame has been challenging. I have a friend with a sandblasting booth so that may be how it gets cleaned up.
51, if you take a look at mine going through the genesis on my post, you can see how the frame turned out from the sandblaster and the frame painted. I used and have always used Rust-Oleum on the frame. I use the primer and then the black. I also use a brush. You get a real nice heavy coating. I chase any runs or drips and then bake it on with an infra-red. It hardens fairly smooth. It is soft enough that it does not flake when a stone hits it. It is very easy to touch up. In the areas where you just cant get into, I used an Eastwood internal frame kit with a hose and spray applicator.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html
I have been doing a lot of research trying to decide on patching my old tub or replacing it with a reproduction. I found this video. This is a pretty good video or pretty bad, depending how you look at it, showing some fit issues. It is dated June 2018 so after the fixes should have been incorporated into the tubs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgnXdIw1Ozs
There are different issue with the 3B's. If anyone is interested could share but I didn't want to highjack the 3A discussion.
Wow he apparently had a few big time issues there. It looks like he may have had the wrong combination of parts. Having to move the fender braces would have stopped the project for me, and sent all of it right back to the place that sold it. My KW Tub was as good as I would expect for the cost. A little pushing and showing here and there and a few patches and it fit and looked great. It was definitely not a bolt on! No one should buy one with the thought that you could just bolt it on. You can get them that way from here https://www.willysoverland.com/ . These guys do a great job and they are at the Toledo Jeep Fest every year with a nice display. I have had a chance to check out there stuff up close and it is excellent. I did notice that in the video he had welded the top mounts on. Most tub kits do not include those welded on. I am not sure why but, I have been told it was considered an option (a top) and some CJ's did not have them. I also noticed in the video the spot welds and other similar manufacturing blemishes were getting covered on the outside. The original Jeeps did not have those covered up. You got it just like it was made. Those spot welds were simply painted over. The original CJ's were built to work not to show. So when you buy a kit some may want to start with it like that if they want it to look as it did back in the day.
To each his own on a Willys. I like all kinds!
You will pay more from WillysOverland, but you will have a lot fewer frustrations, skinned knuckles, slag burns and cuss words!
I was think on a similar wave length with bmorgil. This was either old stock or mixed parts. Who know? However it does illustrate the major issue to overcome. It scared the "poo" out of me at first. LOL I guess each jeep is a little different. When you buy replacement panels/bodies expect to do some tweaking. (or twerking for some folks :rolleyes:). Leave all the bolts loose and work it out. From my research all issues are fix able. The jury is still out for which vender I might pick. I'll call each one and have a conversation first. But I am leaning pretty hard one way at this point.
And AJ jumps in and nails the "tweaking"! Right out of the box, its a home run!
I was ready to see anything after all the research I did prior to dumping the cash. I heard and saw all the horrors, I am sure you also saw on the WWW. I do know that the early stuff had all the badness. Thin metal, way off location stuff, wrong stuff and just plain wrong. After watching the changes made by M.D. Juan on their project vehicle, they pretty much had most of it "banged out". It just is important to get newer inventory from a reputable place that will take it back without a law suit.
I really think a lot of guys don't realize these Juan bodies are made by hand. Old school English wheels, brakes and spot welders. To top it off, with no frame attached they move all over. Until you start to work it down with some long fasteners and large fender washers, pry bars (port-o-power if you have one) and hence, back into shape, they don't just fall on. After I bolted it together on the trial run it fit much better the next time. However it still moves around when you cut it loose from the frame and pick it up. It is not a structural uni-body. It needs a frame for sure.