I know this has probably been asked before but my searches have gotten me no where. Can I replace the brake drums that are attached to the hubs without finding a special tool to cut the studs out ?
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I know this has probably been asked before but my searches have gotten me no where. Can I replace the brake drums that are attached to the hubs without finding a special tool to cut the studs out ?
Welcome oldjeepguy!
I would use a Dremel tool to clean up the displaced metal around the stud. If the studs have ever been changed in the past, they may not be too pinched in. A press will overcome the swedged metal, or a 2 Lbs. hammer. A quick way to tell if someone had been there before is to see if the driver's side lug studs are left hand thread. If they are not, then the studs have been replaced. On one of my projects, there are three studs that are left hand thread, with the two remaining studs being right hand thread. Look for all studs to have a R or L on the end of the stud.
Thanks for the reply. My studs are left hand so it must be original. I was wondering if I could use a hole saw if I can find one that small and deep?
I agree with gm. A Dremel and a lot of time or buy one of these. https://goodson.com/collections/arbo...wedge-tools%20
I used a press and a LOT of force. The drum and stud all have to be supported well. It loads up the presss and "boom" pops the stud loose, usually breaking the swedge ring out of the drum.
If I am carefull will I be able to reuse the studs?
I would look to replace the studs if you are going as far as to removing them. Over time they have stretched from being torqued multiple times.
With that being said, if you do chose to reuse your existing studs, use a lug nut installed flush with the end of the stud to minimalize the chance of buggering or mushrooming the end of the stud when pressing or hammering it out.
I second the new lug notion. In addition to being stressed, the serrations on the stud that displace metal to lock it into the hub are worn. I had a stud on my spare tire carrier spin in the mounting bracket and it was a witch to get it out. I finally had to pull the carrier and tire as a unit and I had a welder put a nugget on the head of the stud to hold it in place.
I wouldn't want to do that with a drum.
For sure new studs. This is a time to take the opportunity to make them all right hand thread if you desire. I changed mine over to all right hand. Some people do and some don't.
I used a 5/8 hole saw and cut the stud out. It worked fantastic. Now trying to source the studs.
Where did you get the hole saw? I have had a tough time finding hole saws that reliably cut metal. I have a carbide set but it doesn't have much depth capability, and they cost a bit.
I got it from a local lumberyard it’s a Milwaukee brand. It says bimetal on the package. The drill press I used has a speed adjustment and I was turning it really slow and using plenty of cutting oil
Anyone know a part number for the stud? I am having trouble locating any.
We have you covered.
If you would like to be period correct, the driver's side calls out for left handed threads. The links are for the left handed thread studs and lug nuts;
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...71-jeep-willys
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...71-jeep-willys
The right side uses traditional right hand thread studs. (If you want to make life easier, you can do both sides in right handed thread)
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...71-jeep-willys
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...71-jeep-willys
I’ll second the Milwaukee hole saws but, no matter which brand I buy, they don’t last long cutting steel.
I have this set and it will drill frame rails. It is a shallow drill however, and costly.
https://www.greenleestore.com/produc...RoCvTgQAvD_BwE