I have introduced myself but here is my 52 cj2a

I introduced myself last week and I was waiting to introduce my 52 cj2a. I thought a 52 would be a cj3a but the title says cj2. oh well who are we to argue with the state.

So here are some pictures and it seems to be non-molested. but there is going to be a lot of work to make her run. right now she won't start, No brakes, no battery.

So the first delimay is stay with 6volts or go to 12 volts?

There is some rust issues but they seem to be minor. The tires read 79 with a maltitude of cracks. that will be change before it's first outing.

I know newer jeeps, cj's 5's & 7's, cherokees comanches, tj's and jk's. I thought it was funny when I seen the R & L on the studs of the hubs. I have seen that before but not in a long time.

I imagine that I will pull the body off so I can fix what rust there is on the tub and make it easier to clean up the undercarage. any suggestions on an easy way to do this?

A. The little vent flap in the middle of the windshield and the low hood is a giveaway that this is indeed a CJ-3A. The CJ-3B (like peeJ) have a higher hood and the F-134 engine.

B. It looks like all of the pieces are there, so it should be a good project.

C. 6-volt or 12-volt? It's your choice of course, but I left the '48 truck as 6-volt. 6-volt systems started Jeeps all over the world from the Arctic to the Sahara. If you pay attention to oil, battery terminals and cables, the 6-volt system will start it in just about any weather. I'd leave that decision until late in the project.

D. Pulling the tub isn't all that hard, but the problem many have is getting the steering wheel off so you can wiggle the tub off the frame. GMWillys is an expert in how to do that.

Good luck - keep us informed as things progress.

Larry, peeJ is a 1950 3A! Don't hurt its feelings. Yes indeed that is a 3A windshield. Look at the front driver side motor mount. It will be staggered from the passenger side if it is a 3A frame. It will be directly in line with the passenger side if it is a 2A frame.

The choice of 6 or 12 is always a great topic. There are a few discussions on the forum. I converted my 50' to 12v. My original 6 volt system was completely gone. The switch to 12v was made in the CJ's around 1957 I think. I went with 12v for ease. The world is now 12v and my cell phone plugs in discretely under the dash. The 6v system in yours looks complete and that makes it a tough choice. If you are trying to keep it original or, just running with what you have, the original 6v system will keep on tickin'. Upgrading to 12v is nice for convenience. 12v batteries are plentiful as are 12v parts. A one wire alternator makes it a snap.

my turn signal switch is toast, will need to be replaced, Not sure about the heater. don't have power to see what is good or bad. Don't want to buy a 6vt battery then decide I need a 12 volt. Was there a horn button on the center of the steering wheel?

Gear ratio Attachment 10771 that is new to me.

Yes there was a horn button. The gear ratio tag is sweet! That's an original indicating there are 43 teeth on the ring gear and 8 on the pinion. The tags show up a few different ways. Some have the ratio and some have the tooth count.

If you are wanting to start and run your Jeep, then you can hook a 12 volt battery up to run as you are. The down side is that you'll need to remove your brake bulbs because you'll blow them the first time you step on the brake pedal. Other than that, the starter can handle the extra volts, and the generator/voltage regulator will be alright for a time with no damage. I'm a 6 volt guy along with LarrBeard. With the proper cables, you'll have more amps when starting then 12 volts. It really all depends on how you want your Jeep to be.