2 Attachment(s)
Instrument Cluster Regulators
What you have described is a resistor, not a voltage regulator. It reduces voltage, but it does not regulate the output voltage. The voltage at the output will vary with the current drawn by the load. Think of it as a ballast resistor for an ignition coil - like the one that we saw mounted on the firewall of a lot of cars way back when.
An electronic unit is a very good choice if you are working with a 12-volt to 6-volt conversion, but in the case of a 6-volt system you only want to drop a couple of volts and most of the readily available voltage regulators need a higher input voltage that the normal 7.4 - 7.5 volts you see in a 6-volt system at normal charge levels.
If you are dealing with a 12-volt system, this would be a good choice:
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-D.../dp/B014ZQ6TFY. Tie it down to a good ground, the case is an electrical connection.
But, if you are still 6-volts, I poked around a bit and I found a couple of units that will probably do what you need at a cost that won’t break the bank.
This one is the original relay style. While it is an Old School approach, it will work just like the defective one you have. This one appears to have an adjustment screw to fine tune the output voltage if you need it.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/regu...e/100930/50625
REGULATOR, Instrument Voltage, repro, original relay style, located on back of gauge cluster, reduces voltage to 5-6 volts at the gauges.
1948-1952 F1-F3 AS VOLTAGE INVERTOR
1957-1964 F100-F350
Another choice is an all-electronic unit:
https://www.npdlink.com/product/regu...c/177873/50625
REGULATOR, Instrument Voltage, electronic replacement, no adjustments necessary, more reliable than the original relay style regulator, output is a constant 5 volts as required.
1948-1952 F1-F3 AS VOLTAGE INVERTER
For both units, the IGN terminal is the straight tab and the “curled” tab goes to the gauges. Get it backwards and it won’t work. And, the tab is an electrical connection - screw it down to a good ground point.
Let us know what you find out…
Hurricane making knocking sound
So over the weekend I pulled the willys out of the garage and let it idle about ten minutes. Aside from being a little rich (was just going to adjust that). Idled perfectly. Tapped the throttle a little bit and it started knocking. Is with rhythm of the motor and changes with rpm. Almost sounds like a sticking valve but almost to loud for that. It did this when I first got the jeep months ago, for about a minute then stopped and hasent done it scence. It has bean running great. Just the day before had it out doing 45. Fastest its been in a long time and never skipped a beat. I don't understand how it would just start doing this now after just tapping the gas.
Also where can I hook up a vacuum guage to the motor? I got new distributor parts and plug wires and was going to do a complete tuneup. I have electric wipers so no vacuum ports for wipers. I wanted to tune it with the vacuum, and now want to see if it has bad vacuum to confirm that it is a valve making noise.
I would like to know your thoughts.