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Yeah, if we want our things (toys and such) to last, we need to take care of them.
Too bad we weren't that careful with ourselves.
None of the manuals I've seen call for anything more exotic than 30W oil (in modern oil I've gone to 10W30). The F134 is a low compression, low speed engine that isn't worked as hard as your Kubota diesel. I really don't know if a magic synthetic oil is warranted.
As for intervals - if we look at your 100 hour change interval - and guess that an M38A1 is going to average about 30 mph - we're at the 3000 mile oil change interval that seems to be pretty standard for us conservative people today. I do agree with your "run it until it gets good and hot, then change the oil" approach. There is stuff in there that is going to come out quickly - and some that will stay a lot longer. The partial flow oil filter will catch some, so dump it at the first change as well.
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DID SOMETHING!!! Knowing that at times going to have to get into the inspection port on the bell housing, and light and actually seeing what is going on means a lot, wth i painted the inside of the bell housing white. bakedit in the overn for three hours, pretty hard now.... why not, sure going to get some dust and crud, but seeing whats going on pretty important also Did that on my 1935 ford pick up and it worked
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On an original engine, without a known maintenance history, a 30 wt. non detergent oil is recommended. Tractor Supply still offers it in a 2 gallon jug. The brand is Traveler oil, and goes for $20.00. After an engine is rebuilt, then one would be free to use whatever you want to use. A good synthetic would be my choice, just for the simple fact that the engine will go through periods of sitting. The synthetic is less likely to pull moisture from the environment. With your history of maintenance, your A1 will be in A1 shape.
On changing a clutch in chassis, it is possible. On a M38A1, the transmission cover is twice the size of a civilian Jeep. With that being said, one would really hate themselves to perform a clutch change this way. By the time you unbolt the transmission from the engine, drop the cross member, and slide the transmission out. The engine would be out, and ready for close inspection. The nice thing about the early M38A1, is that the engine is easily pulled out as a assembly. The grill is hinged, making everything is accessible. Just one thing to keep in mind, when performing a clutch job, have the fly wheel surface ground. This will ensure that your clutch will live a long, trouble free life. As long as you keep up with adjustments from time to time. The adjustment procedure is covered under TM 9-8014 page 231 par. 191.
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ONE OTHER THING??? Gasoline, these things were made long before unleaded. They all used full bore lead in the gas, now would people advise a adiitve to supplant the lead problem. I had atomic four gas engine originally in my sailboat, old old style flathead four cylinder. did replace it with a kubota, but we got some kind of additive and damn if i can remember what it was.... and the grain fed gas, avoid it and go with 93 octane that is alcohol free or it is advertised as such??
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Lead additive is the best route to take, unless you are having engine work done. A machine shop can install hardened valve seats, so that unleaded fuel can be used. The lead acted as a cushion between the valve and seat.
The local parts stores do carry bottles of the lead additive, but good luck asking the kid behind the counter. They just look at you as if you were asking for their nose ring. Most of the time, the bottle is at the top of their additive/snake oil display, under a layer of dust.
One of the local gas stations where I'm located, sells 100% 89 octane gasoline. I not only run it through my Heeps, but also through my small engines. The alcohol in the gas plays havoc with old carburetors. If the fuel is left in the bowl, the alcohol will corrode the aluminum, leaving a white goopy mess. Another thing to keep in mind, is that modern blended gasoline is only good for about two weeks. The alcohol content, (10%) breaks down the remaining 90% of gas to the point that the octane rating reduces, the longer it sits. Fuel stabilizers help to reduce the break down of the gasoline. As with your sailboat, when you switched to the Kubota diesel, the fuel is much more stable. The fuel is able to be stored for far longer, without the fuel breaking down.
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2 Attachment(s)
NEW HELP, NEW TOPIC....
was able to obtain front drive shaft for front diff. and rear drive shaft, good price.. (compared to nearly 400.00) here is the rub. have no idea how to remove the old "U" joints. they have a retaining ring on outside and know that this will have to be removed on both sides. drive out with a old socket or a piece of bronze?? dont want to screw them up
have never removed this type did see some random videos but not this kind, others had retaining ring on inside and were not quite this rusty, would think that they are driven out but starting opposit the grease fitting
Attachment 1945Attachment 1946
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new treasures. transmission, with trsansfer case and emergency brake, front drive shaft, and rear drive shaft, both taillights (broke them open and both looked brand new inside) (right and left) 24volt horn, one cat eye for front all for $450.00
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A good soaking with PB Blaster will help. Needle nose pliers, a pick, a good vise, a larger diameter socket for the U-joint to go into, and a piece of steel or socket that fits inside of the U-joint bore. On these older drive shafts, the U-joint does come out rather easily using this method. A little bit of heat may be needed if they are stubborn. Most of the time, I end up using the stake pocket on my car trailer to set the drive shaft on. Then I use a steel punch that is slightly smaller than the I.D. of the U-joint bore. To me, steel works better because it transfers the force of the hammer blow more effectively. The shock that the steel delivers works to get things moving. I have a large diameter punch that plugs into my air hammer. This works well on the stubborn, rusted U-joints. The shafts are strong enough to withstand a large amount of force, so don't be afraid to put the hammer to the U-joint. When you drive the U-joint out, push towards the side without the grease zerk, (or remove it completely) this will give you just enough room to push the cap all the way through the outside of the drive shaft. Next turn the drive shaft over to the side that you started on, and drive the U-joint cross back through to push the cap out that side.
When installing the new joint, start by running a piece of emery cloth through to clean up the bore. This will aid in installing the new joint. Next remove the caps from the new joints, and ensure that there is plenty of grease to help retain the needle bearings in place, just in case the cap falls off before installation. Place one of the snap rings into the bore, this will act as a stop for the cap when being installed. Then install one cap on the side you intend to install first. Place the cross in the drive shaft yoke, with the one cap on the inside of the bore. Install the remaining cap on the outside of the yoke, where the U-joint is sticking out. Drive or press the U-joint into place, until the cap comes into contact with the snap ring. Install the other snap ring on the opposing bore. Install grease zerk, and grease until the rubber seals start to expand. Grease does not need to be visible from the caps, to prevent grease from being thrown as you drive.
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OKAY, GONNA GIVE IT A SHOT!!! Was worried about gorping a 389.00 drive shaft
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1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 1949
inside bell housing, new throwout bearing bearing carrier, fork, and new return spring and cable
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Looks good. I like the idea of the white coating for inside the bell housing.
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actually that is baked on rustoleum many hours in oven at 250.00.. got real hard. thought it might help in seeing what is going on inside. thanks
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Well done. Hopefully you won't have to utilize the white coating to help trouble shoot, but if you ever have to, you will be able to see what's going on within the bell housing.
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STUPID QUESTION NUMBER 43.....
U joints,, what holds them?? all i see is "U" bolts, never ever saw a bolt holding a U joint in? always a machined forging with two bolt holes. someone out there knows but i sure dont??????
When i put this in the frame i will free up my little scrap built dolly and will take the other motor out and put on dolly and be able to rebuild it from crank on up.. rebuilding these old motors fun,,, rebuilt a 35 ford V8, 1932 Graham Paige straight six with supercharger, 49 ford V8, 34 Chrysler coupe with straight 8 and a 1946 Ford convertable V8.. those old motors are tough
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I don't believe you've asked a dumb question yet. With 60hp, and 105 lbs. ft. of torque, the U joints are safe with the U bolts. The yokes with the block style, (cast keeper with two through bolts) are stronger, but A lot of modern vehicles utilize the same set up as the Jeeps. The U bolts are remarkably sturdy, when they remain tight. The nuts being on the back side of the yoke, tends to protect them from being damaged by road or trail hazards.
I have a love affair with most all engines. The vintage engines are the most interesting to me. Babbitt bearings is a lost art. Cutting and measuring shim stock for setting the clearances of rods and mains is another. Ford flat heads are an engineering marvel. They produce a sound that is like no other. The supercharged six and straight eights are another favorite. The engineering that went into making it all live together, (with a slide rule instead of computer) is amazing. We don't have the same caliber of bright individuals, coming up with these designs. If the electricity were to ever stop flowing, we wouldn't be able to engineer anything.
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my 35 ford pick up, (bought from a farmer in door county wisconsin for $40.00) had to stop at every other gas station to get waste oil.. could see it coming with the blue smoke.. starter kept hanging up and i had to crawl under and move the bendix all the time. a farmer stopped once when i was doing that and said "son what in the hell are you doing" told him and he told me to put it in reverse and rock it forward that would cause the bendix to got back.... he was right. a year later it had a 49 flathead in it, 3 -2 barrelled carbs mallory dual point ignition edelbrock heads (finned ) and dual 36" cherry bombs. and i put a radio in it, (cant cruise the local hangout without a radio tuned to WLS with dick biondi in chicago land without the radio) when i was in Vietnam she sold all of my cars to some guy for 400.00!!!!!.. but the truck really sounded great
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First things first. Thank you for your service to our country. I too would often listen to WLS, but it would only come in when the weather was just right. Dave Dahl was the morning drive host in the late seventies/early eighties. The 46 CJ2A that I still have was purchased in Bartonville IL, back in around 1985. We drove it home, but it too was burning more oil than gas. We put it in storage in the garage for about ten years. We had purchased a CJ3A from Wisconsin, while traveling the back roads on our way to Oshkosh for the Fly In. The 3A was a basket case, and the body was completely trashed. It was used at their local airport for snow removal around the airport. Below the windshield was hand painted "Beware Helicopter Pilot". Dad spent a couple of years getting the drive train all back together, in order to use it around the home place. By that time we had acquired a Dodge M37 from the local fire department. It was a fun cruiser with only 11,000 miles on it. From there He purchased another CJ3A/M38 clone from a local guy who had purchased the kit from the Philippines. The frame and body were aftermarket, but the drivetrain was from a donor Jeep. The body was odd, in the matter that it had dash features of an M38, but no provisions for a battery box in the cowl. I suppose it was to circumvent the copyright that AMC/Chrysler had on the Jeep image and design.
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2 Attachment(s)
First things first. Thank you for your service to our country. I too would often listen to WLS, but it would only come in when the weather was just right. Dave Dahl was the morning drive host in the late seventies/early eighties. The 46 CJ2A that I still have was purchased in Bartonville IL, back in around 1985. We drove it home, but it too was burning more oil than gas. We put it in storage in the garage for about ten years. We had purchased a CJ3A from Wisconsin, while traveling the back roads on our way to Oshkosh for the Fly In. The 3A was a basket case, and the body was completely trashed. It was used at their local airport for snow removal around the airport. Below the windshield was hand painted "Beware Helicopter Pilot". Dad spent a couple of years getting the drive train all back together, in order to use it around the home place. By that time we had acquired a Dodge M37 from the local fire department. It was a fun cruiser with only 11,000 miles on it. From there He purchased another CJ3A/M38 clone from a local guy who had purchased the kit from the Philippines. The frame and body were aftermarket, but the drivetrain was from a donor Jeep. The body was odd, in the matter that it had dash features of an M38, but no provisions for a battery box in the cowl. I suppose it was to circumvent the copyright that AMC/Chrysler had on the Jeep image and design
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First things first. Thank you for your service to our country. I too would often listen to WLS, but it would only come in when the weather was just right. Steve Dahl was the morning drive host in the late seventies/early eighties. The 46 CJ2A that I still have was purchased in Bartonville IL, back in around 1985. We drove it home, but it too was burning more oil than gas. We put it in storage in the garage for about ten years. We had purchased a CJ3A from Wisconsin, while traveling the back roads on our way to Oshkosh for the Fly In. The 3A was a basket case, and the body was completely trashed. It was used at their local airport for snow removal around the airport. Below the windshield was hand painted "Beware Helicopter Pilot". Dad spent a couple of years getting the drive train all back together, in order to use it around the home place. By that time we had acquired a Dodge M37 from the local fire department. It was a fun cruiser with only 11,000 miles on it. From there He purchased another CJ3A/M38 clone from a local guy who had purchased the kit from the Philippines. The frame and body were aftermarket, but the drivetrain was from a donor Jeep. The body was odd, in the matter that it had dash features of an M38, but no provisions for a battery box in the cowl. I suppose it was to circumvent the copyright that AMC/Chrysler had on the Jeep image and design
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. Name: M38A1 013.jpg Views: 0 Size: 97.8 KB ID: 1957 Click image for larger version. Name: Holly 361.jpg Views: 0 Size: 96.3 KB ID: 1958
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Pelago:
We are of an age that can still appreciate WLS radio in Chicago (The Mighy 890). I was from West Tennessee and in the mid 60's WLS was the clear channel station for mid America on 890 KHz. Daytime radio was WHBQ in Memphis, but at local sunset - in came WLS. (One of my posts about the '48 had a story about Bubba and his girlfriend watching the submarine races while they listened to WLS - and burning the points in the flathead Ford - and having the sheriff come out to find them).
Biondi (known as the Wild Italiano) came on at 9:00 PM with what was, for the 1960's, a show that just at the edge of propriety. I remember the night that Biondi went over the edge slamming Art Roberts, probably the program director at the time, and got relieved at the 10:00 commercial break.
Try explaining to today's kids night time AM radio ....
Try explaining Jeeps to most of today's kids .....
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yeah... and cruising Skips of First ave in chicago or Mac Donalds where everyone backed in to the slot to show off car.. never got my pick up to a classy view status, but it did run... and
in case anyone trying to figure out what all this costs jeep restore. at this point in my rebuild i have a total of 3900.00 in it and that includes the 1400.00 purchase for the two jeeps originally. brakes, wireing, tires, body left to do now that is what i have spent in 2 years. don't think that it is excessive, and i have included all expenses including sand blasting, and trailer rental, even individual washers and bolts, so it is accurate. plus i have a complete spare motor including transmission
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The Willys Jeep hobby isn't as expensive as say building a newer TJ would be. The parts are out there, and relatively inexpensive. Word of mouth works better than shopping on the computer. Everyone knows someone with a Jeep hidden out in the back forty. When we started work on the 52 M38A1, it didn't take long for donor vehicles to come out of the woodwork. We were able to find three that were within the time frame for the grill hinges, (two or three model years, if I remember correctly) and the correct front fenders. All were purchased for not a lot of money. $3900 is a good price for what you have accomplished. Much cheaper than any other habits.
Try explaining setting points, tach and dwell, and six volt batteries. Especially at the auto parts store.....
My mind is full of otherwise useless information. Does anyone know what the WLS stands for? The hint is that the radio station was started by Sears and Roebuck, in order to get rural farmers to purchase radios through the catalogue.
Answer: Worlds largest Store.
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Oh boy ...
We should all three just go off and sit in our rocking chairs somewhere.
Then there was WOWO, here in Fort Wayne Indiana - the Fifty-thousand watt voice of the big business of farming! I first heard WOWO one early morning in 1968 about three days out of Norfolk heading home on an old ammunition ship. We had an old Radio 3 receiver (probably an RBB) that we used as our entertainment and I had it on a 350-foot long wire antenna. There this station was, with that wavery, fading signal that is typical of an AM signal that is coming a long way. (Pelago - you recognize that).
We held it two mornings, then the guys from Jersey wanted to listen to NY stations.
I never figured I'd end up in Fort Wayne ....
I went out and started the '48 this afternoon and let it warm up. I opened up the heater valve and made sure that it worked. I have a problem - it sounds like it only starts on two cylinders, then picks up another - then all four. If I'm lucky it's a fouled plug. If not - maybe a sticky valve.
Of course it waits until snow is forecast to do this.
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had a 56 pontiac that had a stuck valve, old gas station guy said pour a can ot STP down the carb while running and it would free the valve up, he was right it worked, smoked like hell but too many mosquitoes anyway. that engine wound up in a 1946 ford convertable with a 4 speed chevy transmission (one of the cars my mother sold)
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We were too cheap for STP. Water drizzled down the carb would knock the carbon loose, just don't add it too fast.
WIRL 1290 AM was our local radio station. It was great until the mid 90's, then it became all talk all the time. Doctor shows and farm reports were the only thing on from then on. The service truck I had only had an AM radio, but I wasn't excited to listen to Dear Abby on the radio.
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3 Attachment(s)
Attachment 1959Attachment 1960Attachment 1961
motor and frame now one!!! engine is in!! think i will name this thing busted gut or BG for short, tuff stuff when alone and there is a little ramp to go into garage and that made it tough, used a come long to get up ramp
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Excellent work. She is really coming together.
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i bet that darn motor and trans weighs more than two of modern 4 cyl,,, heavy heavy heavy. Years ago i had to rebuild a chevy vega, crappy little car with a mis match engine, steel block but aluminum head, but the point of this is, i could actually pick up the block and lift it out of the car. I am not sure that two grown strong men with a lifting bar and block chained to it could lift the engine and Xfer case of a m38a1... My engine hoist did it no problem but moving it (hoist and all) was not easy, probably because of little wheels on hoist, but non the less it was not easy and now i will lift the other engine out of the spare m38a1 and put it on the skid that i have....
Did something today that have never done, used one of those thread kits to rethread the rocker arm that holds the stud that keeps the valve cover from leaking, mine was pretty bad, took rocker arm off and recut threads and inserted new threads and re installed rocker arm (after blowing out all the pieces and parts with air) now the darn thing wont leak.... i know could have bought a new one but wth rather fix than buy
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These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.
An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.
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4 Attachment(s)
These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.
An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.
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These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.
An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.
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These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.
An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.
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These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.
An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.
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These engines/transmissions/transfer case were made with good American steel/cast iron. They are heavy, but they last forever. Once a pon a time, I had friends that raced the local dirt track circuit. We raced in the Sportsman division, so we used a 355 SBC, with a 525 lift cam. We did have a spare engine, but we used it in the truck used to pull the car to the track. The spare utilized all the same hook ups that the race car did, minus the transmission. The season championship night came, and we went out for the heat race. The engine in the car developed a head gasket leak, and was down on power. We decided to perform an engine swap before the feature race. Four of us attacked the car and the truck at the same time, for the engine swap. Two of us prepped the truck for the removal, and two on the car. We took two floor jack handles, and made a cradle to lift the engine out. Two guys per side lifted the engine out of the car, and set it on the trailer. Then we went and pulled the engine of the truck. The truck was much more difficult, because of the height of the truck compared to the car. We were able to set the engine in, plumb it, and have it running within an hour. We made it out on the track and placed third in the feature. The only problem was that we had to put the original wounded engine in the truck, just to get home. It was a long night.
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. In a related story, we were preparing mid week to run a 100 lap memorial race, that had a descent pay out. We were prepping the engine for the race, and found an issue with the passenger side head. We looked under the bench for our stash of engine parts and only found a one ported passenger side 305 head. We were in crunch time by this point, so it was decided to go for broke, and install the 305 head. The budget was already gone through with shock and tire purchases, so there was no more money left, or enough time to prep a new head. We assembled the engine, then loaded up the car. We pushed the car to the weigh scale, and opted out of the mud laps. The first start of the car was when we went to the heat race. The engine sounded odd, but ran with plenty of power. Since we didn't go out for mud laps, we had to start at the rear of the field. He quickly weaved his way through the crowd of 10 cars, within the 10 laps. As soon as the checkered flag dropped, he shut down the engine, and was pushed into the pit. We went through and adjusted the valves with it hot, and then let it rest until the feature. For the last race, we started at the mid pack, outside row. When the green flag was dropped, the car took off again. He quickly ran toward the front, and maintained a sizable lead. Over the coarse of the race, the engine did fine. Towards the end of the race, the engine started to puff a bit out of the right side header, when the throttle was released. The longer the race went on, the more the passenger side head was smoking. The lead was starting to diminish, but by the time the checkered flag, the second place car was hot on his heals. He was able to hold them off, and win the race. When we tore down the engine, the passenger bank piston rings were pretty much burnt up, and the crank bearings showed much more wear than the left bank. The difference in compression between the two sides, made the engine unbalanced. It was a good test of theory, with an interesting outcome.
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An engine hoist is worth its weight in gold. I use mine for way more than it was designed for. Pulling bodies off the frame are a snap with an engine hoist. I work alone, so I use it to make up for a second set of hands.
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. In a related story, neat..
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now here is one that i just dont undestane,,, right hand thread for right tire, and left turn thread for left tire. Never had to change a flat or repair a tire under fire, but can imagine crap coming down at 40-50 a hour, and you are trying in the middle of the night to change a tire?? wonder who the rocket scientist was that figured two different lugs and two different stubs for tires?? just can not understand the reasoning behind this.. plus twice the stock numbers and twice the inventory and i can not a glance tell if it is right hand thread or left hand thread????
new topic, pulled the spare engine out of the other M38A1 now sitting on a cradle, plan is to rebuild it from crank on up. new jugs, rings, bearings valve job, dip the block and this time i am going to paint the sucker BRIGHT FREAKIN RED
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SOMEONE REFRESH MY MEMORY HERE.... 24vdc thru a switch to input on distributor switch on and hit starter and it starts?? all things being equal, fuel so forth??