We haven't heard from you in a while.
Make a noise so we know you're OK ...
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We haven't heard from you in a while.
Make a noise so we know you're OK ...
Dealing with insurance companies...........oh joy
They'll take your money, but when you need them, it takes way too long. Do you need anything?
"Hey guys, we've heard from Ira. He's OK. You need to bring his stuff back."
Ira, you recognize that statement - it's a joke...
It probably was easier to deal with the creepy-crawly critters that slithered out of the puddles than the insurance snakes.
We're thinkin' about you.
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i used a engine hoist to get tree off of truck,,, that is what i cooked on antenna ready for new rotator hy gain ham iv
My late father was vice pres of a major ins company at end of wwii and he started his own busiiness in the garage in fifties, and was successful and i can remember many times being awakened late at night because one of his customers had a fire and we would go there and actually move them into a hotel that my dad paid for, this happened many times, Now, not a chance in hell of a ins agent doing anything but be a phone number
will need a whole new roof over 300 tabs in yard holes in the roof, both tin porches gone and leak like a sieve, been waiting for three days for adjuster, this prick gives me any grief he will see the road real quick
Good to hear from you! How did your truck fair? Insurance isn't what it used to be.
believe me, am not getting a warm fuzzy feeling from the adjuster. not at all, had to pull three trees of the house, five rooms impacted by water intrusion from the roof leaks. dunno at all
getting back to the M38A1 for a bit, lets talk about the anatomy of the spark. I have the original spark plugs and have absolutely no idea how old they are, but the work? BUT seems like it is rather slow to kick, now the timing is not right can not get to 5degrees needed and will probably have to move the pump over one gear to achieve the timing (yuk and have to deal with a new oil pump gasket) but coil seems good, and do spark plugs get just plain old, hell i am 73 and things dont work right on me and the plugs as old as i am. but new set is 80 bucks
Yeah, but they don't tend to wear out like we do.
M38A1 plugs are more kin to aircraft plugs that auto plugs because of the shielding on them. Folks tend to think the casing is for waterproofing, but you and I know it is for EMI suppression for the on-board radios.
The bottom end is like any other automotive plug though. The good news is that the EMI case protects the insulator and it is very unlikely to have a cracked insulator. Cross off one "wear-out" mode. The bottom end can be eyeballed to get an idea if it is worn out or not.
Jeeps are not at all demanding on plugs. If a plug looks good, it probably is. I made a quick sketch of things to look at. Years ago, every auto shop had a machine to clean plugs - it was a little abrasive blast cabinet. No more - it's easier to just replace them and really more cost effective to everyone.
Take a brass or stiff nylon tooth brush out of your gun cleaning kit and clean any loose carbon or wet fouling off the plug. With all the work you've done on the engine, you could have some crud build-up. Wet soot isn't good, dry soot is OK, grey is great.
Look at the pit around the insulator and make sure there is no crud in there (a toothpick is a good cleaner there - don't chip the ceramic). Look at the center insulator, no chips or cracks. How does the center contact look? It should have fairly sharp shoulders and edges, not rounded off like a firing pin. Last of all, how does the bridge contact (ground) look? It shouldn't be eroded or pitted.
Run a piece of emery through the contact gap and then a piece of paper to clean off any emery residue. Blow it off with air. Set the gap. My book for the F-134 says .030" for gap, but you're not doing precision machine work here.
In a pinch, on an M37, it flooded bad enough to darn near hydrolock. Didn't have the tool kit on board, but did have a cheap socket and a torch. Cut the innerdes out of the socket to allow the plug to fit through. Took the wrench and popped the plugs loose. Rolled the engine over and sprayed gas to the rafters. The torch burned off all the gas off the plugs and ran the torch across the plug holes to burn off any excess gas. The truck started just fine after putting the plugs back in. Moral of the story, Larry is correct, the plugs just don't seem to ever wear out.
It's been almost three weeks and we've heard nothing.
I know you're up to your eyeballs trying to fix things, but make a noise again to let us know you're OK - or pop some smoke so we can find you.
what color?? been dealing unsuccessfully with insurance assholes, 2600.00 deductible to start and they left half of destroyed personal property off... filed claim 31 days ago and no check. to top it all off the dam gear box leaks like a sieve. gasket at the seal at the pitman arm i think. damn damn damn. gear lube ll over garage floor, got to get under neath and then clean it add more lube and wach for damn leak. have another gear box but am just pissed
Pop some violet, it will be easier to see you from afar. Insurance agents are happy to take your money, but slow to give it back. I wonder if the pitman arm shaft is grooved, causing the seal to not seal? Not the end of the world. Napa should be able to set you up with a speedy sleeve repair kit, for not a lot of cash.
Keep your head up. It will get better.
Amazing how often we agree!...
GMWillys said pop violet smoke - I was going to say purple. It will match the color of your face when you talk to the insurance guy...
About steering gear boxes. Like you, we put things back together and had a leak around the sector shaft. We had to take things back apart and found that the shop doofus had put the old, worn, steering sector back into the gear box. There was just a little wear on the shaft that let oil seep past things.
It's good to hear from you and we're glad things are well enough under control that you can at least look at the Jeep.
as we type am getting a new complete steel roof, lifetime warranty, but which life mine or the roof??? okay making room for the entire gear box shaft and all, when i put it together i did not put new bushings in because manual said to check for sloppy movement and i had none, and the little ball on the end is in great shape and not worn at all, so i think the two bushings and a new sealer and good to go??? but might have to make a new gasket (not hard but time consuming because cant rush that, little tiny ball peen hammer and beat the edges out) but when i fill it up with gear lube it just comes out the shaft, now i have another complete steering box, and does the video show how to remove the bushings, am a virgin on removing bushings... and another issue creeped in had the carb rebuilt, and i did not start the thing during the storm so it had not been run for a month, started it up and all of a sudden gas came pouring out the top of the carb where the vent line attaches, and had to push accelerator 1/2 way to keep it running. this just happened, but one good thing the fella that rebuilt it stands on his work,,, and prior to this it ran good idled at about 600rpm and had plenty of get up and to, now it runs like ****
The float is stuck on the carb. The needle is not seated, and when the fuel pump fills the bowl, the fuel continues to fill until it comes out the vent. A quick fix is to tap the bowl with something blunt. A hammer will do, just be careful to not tap too hard, enough to leave a mark. Your carb guy can have it sorted out within minutes. maybe there was a bit of moisture that settled in and gummed up the float shaft.
Most military steering boxes are in fairly good shape, because of the low mileage. Now the sector shaft leaking isn't an uncommon problem. Mud, dirt, and dust has worked its way into the seal and grooved the shaft. You don't have to change out anything, just take the seal down to Napa, and they can set you up with a speedi-sleeve, Redi-sleeve. They are simple to install over your existing sector shaft, and will give the seal a smooth surface to ride on. Below is a National Bearing listing for their Resi-sleeve. It is not the correct one you need, but it gives you the idea of what to look for. The cup is the installation tool, and the other is the sleeve itself. Once you Loctite the sleeve in place, the lip is removed. Then you install your seal. Job done, and no more leak.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XIjYuhxKsw
https://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstore...6#.W8jGKmeWzt4
carb as was suggested had a gorped up valve and float? took my friend mike 82 seconds to fix it, now it purrs. dont have a tachometer but idle maybe 600rpm. exh pretty clean no smoke at all, after it was started it blew some blck carbon out, well more than some, but it is cleaned out. damn wish i could drive it. now to tackle the steering box, and going to napa and take my spare box with me and look at the speedi sleeve, undecided, only want to to this once....
oh yeah BTW have a new steel roof, (hunter green to match the trim) both porches and all, and it rained last night and could stnd on porch and not get soaked from leaks
We're glad to hear that things are settling down a bit. The crew here was really concerned about you and it's nice to hear that your biggest worry right now is a leaky steering box.
Do you have an antenna back up? We had 50+ MPH winds Saturday and I lost the support on one end of the wire and it managed to whip itself around the top of the tower. I'll need my neighbor's bucket truck to unwrap it. It's good to have neighbors with big toys like that.
Dropping the five element soon and new rotor
Went to napa and inquired about the new sleeve, whew 51 bucks
I suppose it's been a while since I bought one. Seems awfully steep. You might have to use your other steering box for now. The only folks I know of that carry a sector shaft or a complete kit is Quarter Ton and Military;
https://quartertonparts.com/product/...6-807478-g758/
https://quartertonparts.com/product/...t-807478-g758/
WELL, removed the steering box, drained 8 bucks worth of gear oil out, no did not try to save it. can i feel some wobble in the sector shaft, yeah a tiny tiny bit, just does not feel that worn. inspection of the sector shaft found minuscule wear, could not detect with a fingernail???? Am thinking, maybe incorrectly that the seal failed? crappy seal?? I know i had to get a better seal than the one that kaiser offered for the front end of the transmission?? I did notice that the kit offered by 1/4ton mentioned honing before installing, and i do have a hone for wheel cylinders that would do the job. a seal from napa 54.00 plus 9.00 shipping and state tax takes it to 70 bucks and for 40 more can get a kit? For piece of mind get the kit, and be done with it? and i could use the other ross box to be the one that is repaired, however i am uncomfortable taking a socket and trying to whack out the old bushings and then gorping p the new ones installing same way. feel that a machine shop or the same guy that pressed out the drive shafts for the new "U" joints would do it, he charged a whole ten bucks to finish what i was afraid to try. I will not have a steering box that leaks, nor will i put in grease that was suggested in another forum. mentioned that the steering box leaked and four guys said use grease, i replied to them that i took two ross boxes apart and found that the grease had all gathered in a dried mess and none of it was on the bearings all had moved to the inside walls of the box and all had dried to a horrible mess that i had to chisel out. They all indicated that they felt grease was better??? i am in total disagreement with that. engineers far better than i or them designed this damn thing for heavy wt liquid gear lub not grease. and a careful inspection sees that is designed to make the fluid flow up to bearings,, with the lower bearing submerged in lube all the time. the bushings in the sector shaft have curved cuts in them for lube flow, not grease. and damn if i am gonna do this right am gonna do this right.....
\addendum.... just went to my guy and he said that he did not have the correct size for press, but recommended another shop , went there and it turned out that it was a specialty shop that builds hot rods, old school type and he said no problem and i am getting kit from 4wd guys
I am all for spending the extra money, and doing the job correctly. The honing of the bushings is a two part reason. 1st To match the sector shaft O.D. perfectly to the I.D. of the bushing. 2nd Take out any imperfections caused by installation. Quarter Ton and Military are a good group of guys, and they work hard to produce and offer the best parts around. They had the Ross kits and sector shafts made, because nobody offers the correct replacement parts.
Heavy weight gear oil is the way to go, and you called it exactly right for the reason why!
Lots of steering gear boxes have a zerk fitting in place of the oil plug - because the seals leaked and whoever/whatever reason, the quick fix was used.
Good seals and good gaskets don't leak. We did the job right (the second try) and so far I've not had enough oil seepage from either place to even keep the outside shiny.
The cover bolts for the '48 use copper crush washers as added leak protection.
On the truck adding oil is a real task because the "remote control gear shift mechanism" (three-on-the-tree) comes right over the top of the plug.
interesting conversation with 4wd guy, he said hell with it use the same grease that goes in the front end , get from john deere and not use oil, that just goes against my grain, and that is complete real restoration. actually changed oil yesterday, was not bad maybe 25hours on it, and was sorta black, but warmed it up and pulled the plug. used straight 30wt to refill. changing the oil also affected the mechanical oil gauge. now after 1hr running it settled down to abt 28lbs and then hit accelerator and it goes to 40lbs. probably will be different when it is actually on the road
A. get from john deere and not use oil,
If you were going to use a grease, the John Deere corn head grease is probably the best bet. In one of the discussions folks got pretty technical about the grease in the steering knuckles. It has to have properties of both grease and oil - I don't pretend to remember the term they used. I do remember that it is also called "knuckle pudding"
B. actually changed oil yesterday, was not bad maybe 25 hours on it, and was sorta black, but warmed it up and pulled the plug. used straight 30wt to refill.
That was another good idea. After we rebuild/rework an engine that has been sitting for a long time, there are still areas that we can't get cleaned out. Crud sticks in passages and oil galleries and most of it comes out after 10 - 20 hours of running. Did you change the filter? That would be a good idea.
Straight 30W, non-detergent is what the books call for. Multi viscosity (5W30) just won't stay in those old seals when it's at the 5W end and detergent oil cleans off stuff that needs to stay - some small amount of crud in the old seals does help keep things where they belong.
Even the capillary tube for the oil gauge gets cleaned out after a bit. 28 PSI at idle and 40 PSI run is really nice. That engine sounds tight. You should be good until it's time to put it away next fall.
Has anyone ever drained the oil out, then filled with kerosene and using starter only turned engine over to help eliminate built up crud. years ago, YEARS ago i bought a 1935 ford pick up from a farmer in ellison bay wisconsin for 40.00 us dollars, it was still in use on the farm and ran good, burnt oil like craxy. when i drove it home from ellison bay to chicago if you looked down route 83 you could see a blue cloud coming... had to stop at gas stations and get waste oil to fill crankcase up, sometimes damn starter would hang up and i would have to crawl underneath, and pull starter and push the gear back in,, I was doing this one time at a restuarant and this old guy came over and asked it i had a problem and i told him and he said "listen younger, all you have to do is put the truck in first gear and push i backwards, damn been pulling the starter all day. then i had a flat, not spare to speak of, another farmer came by on his tractor and offered to help, he pulled tire, we went back to his farm (right there) and pulled tube, fixed it and put it back on truck. then he asked i i wanted a job, said sure, so i bailed hay, and stacked it in the barn for three days. he paid me 50.00 dollars and fed me for three days. THIS IS OLD SCHOOL USA, WHERE PEOPLE HELPED EACH OTHER AND IT WAS GREAT....
Any way got home and flushed the engine with kerosene, had to do it three times to get it to drain clear kero. at 15 cents a gallon wth, right.. so i drove it like that for a while, then i started building a 1949 flathead to go in, mallory dual point ignition, edelbrock finned heads, jahns racing pistons, valve job, ground crank new bearings. new oil pump and a modest cam, but get this a edelbrock 3X2barreled carbs, we put it in the 35 and hold flathead batman did it go,,, also dual exh. it was 1950 **** hot pickemup
As long as you are happy with the finished product, that's all that matters.
I bet you would like to have '50 flathead powered pick up now.
Yeah, I’ve done a couple of those things. "Been there, done that - you wanna' see the scar?"
I’ve had at least one engine (not a Jeep this time – maybe a Dodge) that had sat for a long enough time that the oil came out more like syrup than oil – real thick and unbelievably nasty. I pulled the plugs, put in a gallon of diesel or kerosene and cranked it until the battery started to sag a bit. I put the battery on the charger, drained the kerosene (nasty stuff) and just let it sit for a couple of hours.
I added another gallon of kerosene, repeated the process and put fresh oil in it. It seemed to be OK as I remember – no big smoke clouds or knocks.
The last L-134 engine I had in the ’48 was worn very badly – I really did leave a cloud of smoke behind me. (Have you noticed - that’s something you don’t see anymore on a regular basis)? One of the discount gas stations had a reclaimed oil pump. Reclaimed oil was about 20-cents a quart and when the oil pressure gauge would start to droop I would pull up to the oil pump and put 60-cents worth of oil directly into the filler tube. I found the F-134 I have now laying in a barnyard and after I installed it, I left that L-134 at the gate of the local junkyard one night. And, yeah - I wish I had that engine back... .
Around 1972 my boss had a ’59 Pontiac that he cared for meticulously. Every 2001 miles it would be overdue for an oil change – he was that kind of guy – an engineer’s engineer. I stopped by one day to see him and he had just finished an oil change. There was a gallon milk carton (remember waxed paper milk cartons?) full of warm oil sitting in the driveway. I asked him if I could have it and he said “OK”. I immediately poured about half of it into the Jeep and he went spastic.
“That’s used oil!” he spluttered. My reply: “That’s OK , it won’t be in there all that long anyway”.
We did what we needed to do to get by back then.
YUP, WE DID WHAT WE DID, SOMETIME WILL HAVE TO TELL THE STORY OF MEETING THE CHICAGO VICE LORDS IN FOREST PRESERVE WHILE IN THE PICK UP. AND MY BUDDY THOUGHT THEY ONLY WERE FIRING BLANKS....SUMMER OF 1962
Damn wish i had those old cars now, but i am keeping the spare f 134 i have.....
As a side project, we have a '65 Galaxy 500 4 door. Today it was rolled around from the back yard to the drive way. When we picked it up last winter, the engine was stuck tight. Using some garage logic, and barn yard engineering, she turns free now. The original carb is seized tight, even after applying heat, and soaking in PB Blaster. The owner gave the go ahead to order an aftermarket carb, (eBay special Chinese I'm sure). The engine oil doesn't look bad, and the large amounts of trans fluid and penetrating oil didn't drain past the Piston rings. That's good news. After the engine does fire, I will dump in a quart of kerosene in to the oil. Then run the engine for 10 minutes at idle, then dump. The oil that will be dumped in will be some cheap dime store oil, then the process will be repeated until I'm satisfied that the engine is clean.
YEAH, OLD SCHOOL, MAY BE OLD BUT IT WORKS AND HAVE USED DIESEL, SOME WHAT CHEAPER. Have my extra f134 full to the rim with oil. just sitting there, letting it do its thing until the first one is drivable. saw a engine stand for 70.00 bucks at the local napa store. thinking of getting it these damn things are heavy, heavy, heavy. my plan is to do a complete rebuild of this motor, crank outwards, bearings, rings (pistons if needed) new hardened seats and new valves...... but this one will be painted fire engine red
Go to a Harbor freight for the engine stand. Don't buy the cheapest one for $49.00, it is good for 1,000 lbs, but is not real steady when turning the engine bottom side up. The 2,000 lbs is under $100.00, but it folds up for storage. It has two legs that makes it much more stable. Another place to check would be the pawn shops. Usually people buy them, and use them once, then they are just in the way. They go cheap second hand. At one time I had four engine stands, two with big block Chryslers, and two with 727 automatic transmissions bolted up for service. I bought them from garage sales and pawn shops. When we moved, I sold them all, along with all the engines and parts.
Never have used a engine stand. anyway. maybe new issue, minor, but may be? temp sending unit, got one of those nifty laser temp gauges and it reads 165degrees everywhere, and that is the thermostat, but when i alligator clip the new gauge it reads over 200?? not sure i know all that i need to know of this, know that the actual thing is a variable resistor and thats about it but wonder if original 24vdc sending unit is kaputAttachment 3160
this is close to fifty bucks
[QUOTE ...not sure i know all that i need to know of this, know that the actual thing is a variable resistor 3160[/ATTACH]
I've learned more than I want to know about the various Jeep temperature sensors, 6-volt and 12-volt versions - but I've not dabbled with the 24-volt sensors.
You are right, it is a resistor - actually a thermistor. The hotter it gets, the lower its' resistance.
Take the most reliable instrument for Jeep work - your Simpson 260 - and read its resistance cold. Depending on how cold, it should be about 100-ohms or so. Start the engine and watch the resistance as the engine heats up. On the F-134 sensors for 12-volt systems, it goes to about 33 ohms at 165 degrees and 15 ohms at 212.
If it's shorted (low resistance at cold), not much that you can do about that but replace it. If it moves in the right direction, just not reading right, you can set the 165-degree point with some resistors that can be hidden somewhere.
I have found that the Simpson 260 is the most reliable meter to use on old Jeeps. The Fluke 77 is just too good. It reads the spikes and noise and gives erratic or weird reading voltage readings sometimes. I was measuring my temperature sensor with the Fluke last week and I got two different readings depending on red lead/black lead to contact connection (33 vs 45 ohms). The 260 said 33 ohms (+/- just a little) regardless of lead polarity. I would suspect some dissimilar metal issues with cast iron, brass, copper and water causes the Fluke to not understand what I want it to read.
We'll figure this out ...
well the critter is warm now, so will wait until tomorrow and graph the resistance center probe to ground.. and also at same time write down the temp from the nifty laser temp gauge. but the engine runs at 165 that is the thermostat that is in it. and i can put my hand on the head at the 4th cylinder and the temp sensor says 165, i mean its not comfortable but not so hot you cant do it, just runs cool, of course no load. but seems the more it runs the better it runs. and been a long time since i had to manually choke a motor... but hit throttle couple of times, close the choke, and hit starter and she starts right up, then slowly release the choke and it settles down and idles pure oh yeah my first body part showed up fed X it is the complete tool box and lid,,, only one thing wrong it looks too new
can feel no residual heat in the darn thing but it is reading 2.8K ???? 52 degrees out and been off for over an hour?
I concur on the Fluke 77 being too sensitive. We had a speedometer some years back on a Stryker that would not pick up the signal from the output speed sensor. When checking the signal with a Fluke, you would see the sensor picking up and dropping the tooth, at both the bulk head connector and at the speedometer. The tech slaved in the harnesses from the speedo to the bulkhead, but could not from the bulk head to the pack. We sat there and brainstormed for a while and decided to pay a visit to the electronic sights folks to see if the had an oscilloscope. They rummaged through a storage closet and found one that was covered in dust. We took it back to the shop and hooked it up. The scope showed that we were in fact seeing the square wave, but the corners of the wave were really fuzzy. This was enough interference that the gauge was not picking up anything. To verify the thought, we ground hopped the power pack from another vehicle to the effected vehicle's systems. The speedometer worked as desired.
The moral of the story, proven technology such as the Simpson meter or an old dusty oscilloscope can out preform modern digital technology.
In regards to your water temp gauge conundrum, 2.8k is way to high. LarrBeard is correct that the ohms should be around 100 ohms at cold, and around 30 ohms at operating temp.
I don't know the gauge scheme on the M38A1. I am assuming that as the engine gets hotter, the sensor resistance goes lower, more current flows through the gauge and the needle goes upscale toward 200+ degrees. I also am assuming that the gauge is still a bimetal thermal gauge.
Now that the engine is cool, clip lead the sensor back in place and see what it reads. If our guess about how things work is correct, the needle should hardly move at all.
2.8K seems high for a cold sensor, but again, this is a 24-volt system and we'll learn something from this experiment. AT least now we know that there is not an internal short in the sensor that pegs the gauge.
In the '48, we managed to damage the oil pressure gauge. Someone (?), probably the shop goat, dinged up the oil pressure sender and shorted the gauge to ground. (You know, that goat that walks through the shop at night and takes things off benches, eats up pans full of screws and little parts and generally causes havoc). That short warped the gauge innards - it reads about 20 PSI with the engine off and 50+ PSI with oil pressure on the engine. That's a project this winter.
If the sensor lead to the gauge was grounded, the gauge could have been damaged.
Time *************0800 0815 0830 0845 0900
simpson*********** 2.8k 1.8k 800 800 800
centech************ 63d 104d 157d 157d 157d
the laser probe was sighted in at the casting right next to the temp sending unit
??????????????????
AM LETTING IT COOL DOWN TO AIR TEMP THEN READ THE ACTUAL NEW GAUGE