The Carter YF used 10-27 screws, not 10-24, to put the top onto the body. It was not uncommon to see 10-24's cross threaded in place. JB Weld fixes whatever duct tape won't. I have drilled and tapped JB Weld and used it as a screw thread insert.
Printable View
The Carter YF used 10-27 screws, not 10-24, to put the top onto the body. It was not uncommon to see 10-24's cross threaded in place. JB Weld fixes whatever duct tape won't. I have drilled and tapped JB Weld and used it as a screw thread insert.
(6) 10 27 on top, (4) 10 24 for the base
Attachment 2540
do not or cant find a 10 27 tap, 10 24 i got, last time i did something like this was in sophomore year in hs, and that was not yesterday, had taps and dies on my boat i figured if i got somewhere and broke something i had better be able to fix it, in ten years only used them twice, but got metric and us
just went to google and tried 10 27 machine screws and got every othere size??
once again confused 10 27?? can not find on chart??
Attachment 2541
You just saved me a search. I had never heard of 10-27. I know none of my tap and die sets have it. I think the only place I have seen 27 pitch is on pipe thread. I think 10-32 is the most common today but that may just be from my aviation background.
thanks for that, was going nuts tearing stuff apart looking for 10/27 doesnt or dont normal sizes go from 6/32 8/32 10/24 10/32? i need to get one of those little sizer deals, where you thread into a piece of steel and it tells you, or you have a stud and it tells you
Those are the sizes I am familiar with. Carter may have made their own hardware.
well the one carb that i tried is a disaster, and it goes thru 2 gal in about 20 minutes,,, the exhaust end is total black and full of soot, desperate need of rebuild but got to correct the threads, the four base screws are tight but one of the top (smaller ones in picture) is completely gone. jb weld was suggested and i used it once on a cracked thermostat housing on my diesel and it lasted until i returned to the US and got a direct replacement from universal. but it held. I feel more comfortable getting a helicoil kit and repairing it by reaming larger and then tapping with the correct tap and then inserting new threads, they make the correct one. and i have two carbs, probably will get two kits one for the larger screw and one for the smaller one so i can do the 2nd carter.
I have heard of drilling and tapping JB Weld. There are a lot of success stories doing it but I have never attempted it myself. As long as it isn’t a stressed part or won’t have gas against it all the time it should do well. I would have a hard time getting the hole exacty where it is needed so I would balk at using it too. I might try it, if I could find the correct tap, because the hole required to try JB Weld would not need to be as big as a hole to install a helicoil.
I know JB Weld doesn’t like gasoline. I crawled under a pickup to investigate a gas leak. Gas was coming from a JB Weld patch. The JB Weld had rubberized and was coming loose. The hole was about the size of a pencil lead. The owner said the JB Weld had been there for about 3 years and had me put fresh JB Weld on it.
this is a guess, but in their past lives these two carbs have been broken down and instead of recognizing that there are two different sizes of machine screws, the individual(s) put it back together with the larger machine screws forced into the smaller holes. just a guess, but both of the carbs have good bottom screws holding the base plate on, but each one of them have one or more top screw holes enlarged with the larger ones forced in, and of course there lies the problem.
i just might tap the other holes out and just use the larger machine screws thru out?? or helicoil the correct size threads into the damaged holes. Might be wrong but i think that the helicoils option just might be the better of the two choices.
and i need to completely re gasket the oil pump oil coming out the top plate at pretty good flow. so pulling oil pump again... and pulling distributor out also . took the valve cover off to easily obtain TDC #1 and leave it til all repaired, rebuilt. new points and parts for distributor, carb rebuild (s) and new wires, ought to make it run pretty damn good. runs now but kinda ragged
A helicoil would be your best option. It is true that JB Weld is not as gas friendly, as stated by 51 CJ3.
there are things i am good at and things not so good, i can not look at a machine bolt and say "that is a 10-24" i need to get one of those gauges.
I was given a thread gauge from Fastenal. We deal with a mixture of metric and a few standard bolt sizes, and not all the bolts are marked. China freight may have them also. My eyes aren't worth a darn either.
yeah, and probably going to need two of the helicoil kits, dont want to get what i dont need, so, will be getting a gauge, holding off on running the motor until i get one of the two carbs rebuilt, and new plug wires (damn they aint cheap) the way they are now 2 gal gas in less than 30 min of run time, and they are richer than hell, and new points cap and condenser, have the oil pump out and valve cover off and am at TDC #1, checked valve clearance and they are all good, but sure feel like they are noisy, but then again with a 24" glass pak who can tell, mufflers and exh soon (actually getting good at the re install of dist and oil pump, point to #1 shallow side down on pump and put it together). I do want to get this portion done so i can bring the body in to start its rebuild.............
If you run into any tuning or carb related issues, this guy is the top shelf guy to ask;
http://oldjeepcarbs.com/
I bet you are past ready to start the body work.
THERE ARE MANY MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF MACHINE BOLTS ON THESE THINGS THAT KAISER DOES NOT SELL. what is a good spuirce of say a assortment of machine bolts, and screws for carb, inside the distributor, distributor cap??
For some reason Willys used a lot of fine-thread bolts to hold things together.
Do you have a Fastenal store near you? They're not too bad for a mill supply box store.
They have a lot of nuts, bolts and screw type hardware available - maybe not on the shelf but a day or so away in their central warehouse. If you have a sample to show them, they can usually identify and match it.
You can shop around on line and then go to the store to verify the part once you think you've found it.
They've been very helpful in matching some of the weird metric screws and bolts with European heads.
https://www.fastenal.com/ oooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhh they got one in jacksonville nc oooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhh
yeah i need the screws that hold the plate down inside the distributor, the distributor cap, screw after the helicoil repair on carb, and that should be it unless i have to tear into the generator or the voltage regulator but they seem to be working??? fine??? at least the voltmeter is indicating good charge voltage of about 27-29 volts, have not had it running long enough to see it settle down, but then again am used to three stage alternator and that runs at idle a 13.1 or so, on my boat i lived between 12.9VDC and 16+, that was with five large trojans and my wind gen and solar panels and digiral readout of house bank batteries, will have to get used to the generator like my 56 buick had
If the generator is being regulated at 27 - 29 volts, I'd guess that the voltage regulator is doing what it should.
If you get the irresistible urge to open up the regulator (and most of us who play with radios will get that urge), other than cleaning up obvious rust and corroded spots, I'd just run some paper moistened with alcohol (or contact cleaner if you have some) between the points of the relays to clean any resident crud away.
If I remember correctly, there are a couple of capacitors in the 24-volt regulator for radio noise suppression as well as one diode. If the diode opened, you'd probably never know it and if it shorted, it would have disappeared in a flash of light and a puff of magic smoke. Other than the few radio parts, it's a three relay regulator, just set up for 24-volt system.
Leave working on the regulator for a rainy day after you get body work finished.
A friend of mine who has an M38 very strongly recommends using a battery maintainer to keep the batteries topped off. I suspect he may have an undiagnosed electrical system sneak path leak since he replaces batteries way too often - but the battery maintainer is a lot less money than replacing even one battery.
My goal today is to change the oil in the '48 and maybe start cleaning up the radiator burp residue...
i spent some time on the fastenal web site and they have all the various helicoil repair kits, when i go in with all the stuff i need i will be able to at least order the kits if they are not stocked.
un diagnosed leak, been there and done that on my 35 footer,,,lots of snoopin and poopin in all the hard to get places,,, what was worse was floating ground and the differential between batteries on one bank. had a navy doctor that had a aluminum house boat that got horribly beat up with electrolysis so bad that it almost sank his boat, the alum was eaten up so bad the boat could not be saved, and problem was the manufacture lodated his house supply with improper 120vac the thing actuyally sizzled at the dock
regulator and generator if it aint broke dont fix it but all monitor systems tell me they are working, and i have two of them.... thinking way ahead but when the body is done and the thing is drivable might just do a complete rebuild on 2nd 134f engine. my neighbor has a engine stand that the engine block can hang on... kind of looking forward to that, since it is so straight forward. rings, bearings, crank, cylinders. do all the magic to the motor and have a basically brand new motor
think i have a line on complete parking brake assy ....................
also you know what is amazing !!!!! this damn thread has 44000 hits on it, damn!!!!!!!!!
I agree. We all learn something from your work. I'm not surprised at the amount of views that you have had. Much more to come.
well, back in the "busy stuff mode" at least until more pieces and parts get here, took the distributor off the other motor and damn....... some airhead in one of its previous lives decided he needed to "correct" the dc voltage to distributor
Attachment 2547
what ya gonna do, some hairball insteaed of thinking it out did this, yeah i can fix it for 100.00 with a new bottom for dist but this nitwit did not do any favors
No wonder you were having issues.
The next time you have the distributor off the other engine, look around on the connector that sends power to the unit. It may have a MIL connector number (such as MS3106C8-1S). A lot of the M38 connectors look like that series. If you get a chance, share that number. There are sources for those connectors, and some are $20 items - but then there are some rare ones that nobody makes or stocks any more.
But, now you have a source to find samples of the screws you are looking for.
looking at that web site and sent them a photo and inquiry. brings up another fact. this guy used the same plug wires to conventional plugs, and the plug wires actually looked good and were in pretty good shape except for the fact that the business end of the wire was cut off and conventional style connectors put on the ends. 260.00 worth of cables fXXXked up.
brings up another question the coil itself, since this jeep was haphazardly converted to 12 volt (and i have not pulled the coil from the screwed up distributor) what about the coil? 24vdc coild and 12vdc coil same?
The 24vdc coil is unique to the military distributor. I know I have thrown 12 volts at a 6 volt coil for limited amounts of time without issue, but have not put 12 volts to a 24 coil. The results would most likely be a lazy yellow spark at the plugs. I have not seen a coil that could be retrofitted into a 24 volt distributor. All of the conversions that I've seen have been taking a civilian distributor and replacing the mill spec unit.
Here is a good source for all your Douglas connector needs;
https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Wiring_C.htm
chances are the distributor on the spare motor is probably with a 12v coil then,,, thought that that would be the case, but i can get the correct coil
well, here is the next order
plug wires
carb rebuild kit
oil pump rebuild kit
distributor tune up kit
should make the motor run as fine as frogs hair........................
and talk about busy work, i took all of the plugs (which by the way arre all different manufacture) no two alike, and tumbled them in my brass media and wow did they come out clean
SO I BLUED THEM, WHY NOT, NOW THEY LOOK BRAND NEW
yeah right i am bored and want MY PARTS......................
Instead of bored, let's call it attention to detail.
BORED!
There is a lot of that going around. Yesterday was a gray, misty rain day that kept the truck in the car barn (a down home term for a garage). For lack of anything else to do, I decided to go ahead and replace that oil line at the rear of the F-134 engine. It turned out to be a one-wrench/no knuckle skin job that took about 10 minutes. That little crook in the line is to clear the rear stud on the exhaust manifold, not #4 plug. If you're working down in the engine compartment, it helps to start at the bottom end and form the line to fit at the top. Now, I'm ...
... BORED again ...
You commented several posts ago about noisy lifters. Mine clack and clatter a bit too, but all of them sound the same. I suspect that we've gotten spoiled by modern valve trains that are a lot quieter than the ones designed 70+ years ago.
Attachment 2560
blued spark plugs...............man am bored...........
hey when i was a kid, to clean a carb without spending money on carb cleaner we boiled them in a tablspoon of tide in one of moms pots and pans (never told her that, she would have killed me) guess with a carb as old as i am probably would still work, hey????
If you stack it just right, you can get an oily, funky, gunky, nasty M1 Garand set of wood in the dishwasher. You wait until Momma is gone stopping and run it on pots and pans setting, then run a short cycle to get the grease smell out.o
You can also put a Winchester Model 12 bolt in a pressure cooker to get a high temp wash to clean off 45 years of hardened grease.I
Old sailors and Marines improvise!
As a bachelor, there were many times spent with something torn apart on the kitchen table. I learned those habits from my grandfather. He was notorious for bringing in his chain saw and cleaning it at the kitchen table. He would also remove the dishes from the sink and check tubes for leaks, before vulcanizing a patch. There may have been a time when helping a buddy rebuild his Wide Glide's engine in his living room. I do not recommend baking powder coat in your oven though, it leaves a funk that is hard to get rid of.
Whatever it takes to get the job done.
As far as tappet noise, LarrBeard is correct. Solid tappets will make some noise. With modern hydraulic lifters, that require a preload on them when tightening the rockers down, there is no end gap to make noise with. Some of the Chevy engines would tap a bit at idle, but run some kerosene in with the oil before an oil change, and the passages in the hydraulic lifter would clear out. No more tap.
Interesting, i have five model 1912's and 7 m1's
Attachment 2561
Some of them live here, garands now listed to go to each grandschild
Regarding Model 12's:
I am not a trap or skeet shooter, but from several friends that are I have heard that trap and skeet shooters have very fancy shotguns and have been known to wager large amounts of money on their ability to hit those little clay Frisbees.
But, one trap shooter told me that if some old guy showed up with a ratty Model 12 and wanted to bet on 23 out of 25, he would put his Beretta over-and-under in the case and run to the car. Never underestimate an old guy with a Model 12.
33" Full choke 1914 by serial number dead *** deadly on long duck shots with 2 3/4 inch shells and running deer on camp lejeune (shotgun only) got some 20gauge that are really sweet
A model 12 is a good running rig. My personal favorite is the Winchester model 59 semi 12 gauge, lightweight long barrel. Grouse and ducks didn't stand a chance. The barrel is fiberglass, with a full choke steel sleeve.
There was a man that was in his late 80s. He carried a well worn 30/30 Winchester. I saw him lob a shot at a deer at about 250 yards, from the hip. We saw him shoot, and he turned around and exclaimed that he got that s.o.b. One guy raised up his field glasses, and he yelled out that he did infact killed the deer. The darned thing dropped where he stood. A long story short, that man had that rifle since he was a child. He knew it inside and out, and what he could do with it. He only had that one weapon, so it was his go to for everything. Last word, he was burried with the rifle when he passed.
fortunate enough to have a few of those including original 73'sAttachment 2562
Very nice! A lot of people greatly underestimate the old lever actions. I ran with a guy when I was stationed in Arizona who only hunted with the “old west” cartridges. 200 yards was a nothing shot for us with a 44-40 to kill a deer. I don’t think I ever tried to kill anything this far out with a 45-70 but I practiced 400+ yard shots. I put a guy with a 300 mag to shame shooting at a log across the Yukon River one day at Slavens Roadhouse (770 yds according to Google Earth). My eyes are getting bad enough that I no longer trust myself to make good shots with iron sights. I can see the target fine but not the sights.
I admit that I have a love affair with any weapon that has wood furniture. Plastic just doesn't have the right feel. An M14 is a far superior weapon in comparison to an M16. With that being said, the larger bore calibers are fun to shoot regardless of what the rifle is composed of.