I see the whole picture now. I learned that it can be done through the inspection port, if need be.
Use the hoist. I would be lost without mine.
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I see the whole picture now. I learned that it can be done through the inspection port, if need be.
Use the hoist. I would be lost without mine.
it is in1 thru inspection port but I TURNED THE TRANSMISSION 90 DEGREES CLOCKWISE THAT MADE PUTTING THE FORK IN AT A STRAIGHT RUN, once in connected cable and kept some tension on cable at the transmission, have to reconnect all the brake and clutch crap again
well, all the parts and pieces in, xfer case mounted. checked all bolts for tight. started it up. ran for a hour and no puddles on the concrete....no gear lube visible inside inspection port at all, all nice and white. now to wait and see in couple of hours any thing under it
three hours later.. had one small drip like old 3penny about size of cue tip. but that might have been residual making its way out, i did not clean the block nor the bell housing, but prior to this would have seen a 1/4 saucer full of 90wt. no oil either, i replaced one of the hoses to the oil filter it was defective and leaked, it and the other hose to filter are dry. But damn if i dont have a spot under the master cylinder, one of the output lines leaks. i think i will have to break down and get some crush washers for the brake lines. but all in all am happy, and damn if i dont lie to go out and just start her up and listen. IT IS WHAT IT IS.................
Good deal. Glad everything went together we'll, and is performing to your satisfaction.
new question, gear box, have two of them, and believe can rescue enough pieces and parts to rebuild one for steering.
what weight lube in the box, both of the ones i have it seem filled with grease and what a mess, grease all over but not on what needed lube and how do you determine the shimns?? one had one the other two??
Take note of which steering box takes which number of shims. That will help to set the preload on the sector input. If the play seems proper, then don't change the amount of shims. Check the adjustment of the sector adjustment screw for proper adjustment as well. This will give you an idea of the condition of the gear box before teardown. The grease was put into the box(s) because the seals went out, and leaked gear lube out. Grease works OK, but does become a mess, and becomes stiff as it dries up. Gear lube is the best, because it gets into all the working parts of the gearbox. A new set of seals will keep the gear lube in where it should be.
https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=195761
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsILb3-O4AY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0aNkZhlDxc
wow, but he never said the number to order the lube, he just said he used thinner, but thinner what? the forums got a bit confusing all the people that said put grease then 90wt??
i did get the permetex anerobic gasket maker 51813, never heard of it, but have now
Yep, 90W140/GL4 gear lube - the same as elsewhere.
The bolts that hold the cover on the steering gear box are backed up by copper crush washers that deform into the hole to act as a gasket around the bolt stem. It took two tries to get it right on the '48, but in three summers there is just a sheen of oil around the seam of the box and cover. With good seals and a good shaft, gear oil will stay in there.
Here is a note from one of the many posts about this subject:
"Note that the upper ball bearings are just at the upper lube level and in order to get the lube to flow to the upper level it should be GO (gear oil)".
JUST DONT GET IT!!
I put 90W140/GL4 gear lube in search engine and get everything but what i want, did get a purex product description but not where to buy it or even how much it costs
damn
apparently Kaiser does not sell a gasket for this critter and they (Kaiser) said had to make a new paper gasket. what about thickness I have some gasket material but it is kinda thick and since this has a adjustment for the arm, just might think that mine might be a bit thick. what say you?
Pelago,
At one time were you looking for the outside steering shaft tube? If so, I found a new one for $20. when I was looking up the gaskets.
The three bolt cover where the sector shaft tensioner is located, (stud with the allen screw end, and jam nut) doesn't matter how thick the gasket material is, because the adjuster takes up any adjustment needed. The anaerobic sealant is good stuff. Caterpillar uses if on their front covers on most all their bigger diesel engines, with no gasket at all. Not too many issues of leaks, unless the bolts are removed, and the seal between the two surfaces are broken.
https://quartertonparts.com/product-category/steering/
https://quartertonparts.com/product/...asket-8329725/
The GL4 Sta-Lube that you purchased at Napa will do just fine. In the Forum, they were referring to greasing the sector when assembling the gearbox. A film of grease will not bother anything, then top the steering box off with the gear lube. Thinner oil would be for those folks that want to be able to steer their Heeps in below freezing weather.
hey, thanks, they got a gasket also. cool
AS a cherry on top of the cake, I used a Tite-Steer to replace the sector shaft tensioner on the '48. That gearbox worm and sector had always been just a little looser that I wanted it to be. It drives better than it ever has in my 53 years of being around it.
http://www.siminoffjeeparts.com/siminoff-jeeparts-faqs
Get it going and see if you think it needs one.
I often wondered how well the tight steer worked. The pin is spring loaded, to keep tension on the sector, if I read it correctly. Seems like a good product, and a better idea. If not, then every other oil change, adjust the tensioner as needed. Tire choice will have a lot to do with the wandering of the steering as well. Bias plies are notorious for following every groove in the road, with the exception of non directional mil spec tires. They do alright until it rains, then it's hard to start, and harder to stop. Radials make a world of difference in improving steering performance.
not sure how to respond. My original plan was to NOT do road trips, have certain amount of driving allowed on insurance (great price, full coverage comp and liability) but orignal plan was parades locally and trips to dairy queen with my labrador retriever. maybe trip to beach all of them really close by. But radials kinda take away from the military look?? or not
PULLLED A GAGLE OF SHIMS. which makes me wonder were shims put in during manufacture? a later date? i intend (right or wrong???) to put in same number of shims that i took out. did order a new pack of them though...
i watched the video at least five times, rebuild the box, no where or when did it tell you how to determine number of shims? and then the sector shaft, isnt there a alignment? he just dropped it in, scares me a bit. just drop it in??
To keep with your originality, stay with the non directional military tread. You won't be out in the rain/snow/ice, and you'll have no benefit to worrying about tire wear/loose steering. If I were you, I would spend my money elsewhere then invest in the tight steer gismo. I don't have one, but keep the steering sector adjusted every other oil change, and have no issues. I do have a set of bias plies on the front axle, but when they warm up, they track alright.
As far as shims go, I would assume that being an M38A1, there was not a great deal of miles put on during it's service life for Uncle Sam. Often times the vehicle before leaving the service, will go through an overhaul program at one of the depots. There all the components are broken down and inspected for wear, then rebuilt. We had an '52 M37 Dodge that had 9,000 miles on the clock, and had been overhauled in '76 at the depot in Colorado. Long story short, I would use the same thickness of shims to put your steering shaft mount back together. The shims are there to set the preload on the steering shaft input. There is no set amount of shims to start with. The end point will be that there is no play up and down on the steering shaft. The video here has a good explanation on the steering box rebuild. He goes over the process thoroughly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0aNkZhlDxc
The steering sector shaft is keyed to align the bell crank in the proper location. When you drop the sector shaft into the box, over the steering shaft worm gear, ensure that the sector is centered. This step doesn't mean much, except if the steering wheel is installed on the shaft. It is my preference that when the wheels are straight, then the spoke of the steering wheel should be straight up and centered.
well, i see i screwed up, did not mark the pitman arm but will have to make sure all are centered two tires and then pitman arm. cool video
The sector shaft is keyed, so it shouldn't go on any other way.... Just remember the ball joint on the pitman arm goes away from the steering box. The splines on the arm are tapered, so it is near impossible to install backwards, but have watched people try.
The guy who puts those videos together, has a whole series of Jeep fabrication videos. He fabricates a lot of his own body panels, and is really good at it. Very worth while to watch. His handle is metal shaper on you tube.
" sector shaft is keyed" Whooa where, holding it in my hand and there is no key? got a groove in top that if centered is vertical? but got so many different pieces ihis thing that going to have to line things up for full left turn on wheel and full right turn on wheel..
and am trying to figure out this thing https://www.kaiserwillys.com/new-hor...0-66-m38-m38a1 and do i need it,,, got a purely mechanical switch for horn?? so where in the heck does this go?? my steering shaft had nothing inside it nor were there any wires to make a shortcut for horn, but i thought i would put the original mechanical layout on it?
There is not a woodruff key, but the sector shaft should have a solid portion within the splines to match with the drag link. The groove should line up with the drag link in the center, wheels straight position. Regardless of where the drag link is located currently, it should line up when the column is installed. I should have been more clear.
The horn adapter just gives a path for the wire through, and out of the steering box. The wire runs up the steering shaft to the horn button in the steering wheel.
The horn adapter just gives a path for the wire through, and out of the steering box. The wire runs up the steering shaft to the horn button in the steering wheel. ??
was referring to the mechanical horn system long steel rod connects to switch at bottom all way thru steering shaft
You are correct. The earlier CJs had a wire, and not a mechanical rod. I should have looked to ensure that I was correct before clouding up the water.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...ewtopic&t=8298
Same could be said about the pitman arm installation. It is best to mark the sector shaft and the pitman arm to ensure that everything lines up perfect.
I'll have my crow now.
well i have two of them and one thing in common is that both of them have a groove cut in the top on both of them and suppose that lines up when putting back together, cut into the top of the arm and the base where it inserts and when lined up the arm is in the middle.
also to note, i do have two and they had one thing in common, both packed with grease, and the narrative said DO NOT USE GREASE and yes the grease was just sort of pushed out of the way. he said 140wt go,,,, man thats tough. and then said contact him, well tried to get thru the google stuff and failed, cant contact him, he said he had it
Crow, properly served and eaten, is a nourishing meal for one's character. I know this for a fact because I've had to eat it a number of times.
Gulp.....
I've learned to like crow, having to dine on it often as well.
You can use the Sta-Lube 140W gear lube from NAPA, they show a gallon, but may have a quart or liter.
one curiosity is that there is only one seal,,, would think that thee would be more, sure no pump just rotating the steering wheel and thick lube but still only one seal?
Two seals. A sector shaft seal, and the input worm shaft seal, p/n 808414. It fits under the triangular cap. True, the likely hood of the thick lube of leaking out the top seal is small.
when taking apart the bad shaft i felt it was pretty rusted, probably due to the fact it live in rain for years but wonder if maybe some paint on the parts that are not in contact with bearings?? and sure glad i retained the snap rings, they do not seem to be part of new bearings??
A. I'd paint the shaft. If it stands still, paint it - an old Navy doctrine. Paint never hurt anything but a fiberglass radome cover. (Once upon a time this bosun's mate .... ). As you can maybe tell, I didn't paint my steering shaft - but it's in a cab and won't be exposed to weather.
On the '48 truck, all of the shifter stuff at the bottom was gone - so even that column assembly from the Jeep guy in Toledo was an improvement.
B. Bearing sets include a race/cup and a set of little steel balls. Put some grease in the race to keep those lil' suckers from escaping while you're working with them. They roll really fast!
got some assembly lube..................... it will dissolve in GO
damn, seem to have a leak in the xfer case to the rear driveshaft, first impression is it is a seal right at the output side to the rear driveshaft. does not look like earth shattering fix
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...-transfer-case
guess i need #2 and #45
comments?? after laying on the deck and staring at the damn thing with a light leaks from seal out??
again only wanting to do this once, am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO wanting to get hot on the body (hmm someone with a dirty mind could get the wrong meaning here)
That will be an easy fix. Just look at the yoke's sealing surface for any grooves worn into the sealing surface. If no grooves or pits are seen, put you a new seal in, and you'll be good to go. Make sure that none of the gear lube got on the parking brake shoes. If it did, clean well with brake cleaner. If it was the service brakes, then they would have to be replaced, because you can never fully get the lube out of the shoe linings.
You'll get to the body soon enough. Once you do, and get the hang of rust repair, it will all come together fairly quickly. You will be painting by fall.
SINCE the gear box has brass bushings inside the correct oil needed, 140wt but where, damn stuff
Here is straight 140 weight gear oil. It is GL4, which I believe is the stuff that goes easy on brass and bronze.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/c...3/754ba5cbea99
Now, I have been following the GL4 vs. GL5 oil discussion on this and several other forums and I wonder to myself if we are overthinking this. I see a number of pictures with worn brass and bronze transmission pieces, but these tend to be pieces out of small, high speed gear boxes. Old Jeep boxes are neither of those.
I know we fuss over our Jeeps and want to pamper them in their second or third lives, but is GL4 vs. GL5 really that big a deal?
since high speed movement is not going to happen in the gear box, nor will there probably not be any heat except from ambient heat off engine and exhaust you are probably correct. this thing will probably sit 99.9% of the time. you are most likely correct. a transmission it aint
might there be a video of assembly of the steering box, exterior tube, and mechanical horn button (long one that goes thru the steering shaft). got all kinds of parts and pieces and want to confirm what i have. unfortunately did not have a complete steering assembly to dis assemble to make notes, all i had were pieces and parts. and once bearings and snap rings in dont want to upset apple cartAttachment 2801
this drawing does not lend itself to be enlarged, and dumb as it sounds want to make sure seals are facing in right direction
Check with the G503 websight. There should be a link to a video, and the information you need.
no luck. damn i just feel like i am missing something and dont understand what i have. the long shaft that connects the mechanical switch to the top button. IAW photo from willys i seem to be missing a ??? round?? "thing" part of picture and was supposed to get it but all i got was the shaft? (nopun intended). and the actual push button on top, damn got no idea how that goes together, it does not go together like the picture??. all i know for sure is the bearings, and the seal
Surplus city Jeep parts has the round disk that goes on the end of the horn shaft. After that, then there is the horn button itself.
will have to take a photo of what i have, have tried multiple configurations all in order to make the long shaft move to activate the switch for the horn?? here is another uh oh
in the tm manual (IN THE CORPS WE HAD ECHELONS OF MAINTENANCE DEPOT REBUILD AT ALBANY GA AND BAKERSFIELD CA) the highest of course was depot. but the wrench turners in the field had a better manual than the operator manual, yeah this one is pretty good, and has a lot of information, but the higher one is better, but that is another 40 bucks. anywayt back to the photo and kaiser photo and description. on the shaft there are two seals, but kaiser does not identify two seals, one at the horn/wheel end and one at thed box end?? and there is a disparage on the shims, the real manual says there is a gasket along with the shims, but when i took two of them apart no gasket?? but manual says there is one and there is no gasket in the shim kit. but am making progress have the two bearings installed on the shaft itself and have put in and removed the shaft from box all fits well. now the manual says the shims are to eliminate up and down play when i disassembled both boxes they both all had multiple shims? when i first put the shaft into the box it had no up and down play with no shims?? put shims in and still no play.... but that damn horn button>>>>>....... when honking horn button has to push rod into the bottom switch to activate it. but the three pieces are being a royal pain in the ***Attachment 2802
Attachment 2803 both photos enclosed and one from kaiser and one from manual