It happens. If you didn't take it apart, then you didn't see how it went in. Glad you were able to get it figured out.
How are you feeling these days? Good to have you back on, and making forward progress.
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It happens. If you didn't take it apart, then you didn't see how it went in. Glad you were able to get it figured out.
How are you feeling these days? Good to have you back on, and making forward progress.
Nawhhh .. you aren't stupid.
Stupid is like ugly and mean, it's bone deep and you can't cure it.
The illustrations weren't clear. You just hadn't learned that particular trick yet - now you have moved from uninformed to being an Expert since you've solved the problem once. And - there are several people out here who saw you solve that problem and, one of these days when they need to replace that bearing, they will remember some guy who found out it won't go in upside down and save them the mistake.
Keep on making mistakes - we're learning a lot from your efforts!
E8B Sends
got the voltage regulator out and checking gap, and adj same. thanks for the compliment but still feel like a dumbass, one good thing i used the original race bearing, once i had it cleaned up and re lubed felt more comfortable with it than the replacement, old one just huskier, and metal thicker
You'll be safe using the original bearing. We all learn from things we did right, but more so from things we did wrong. Now to tackle the regulator.
uh oh, after spending all day reg, cleaned, cleaned points measured points adjusted points, all readings within normal limits, plugged it in, nothing just sat there, then the cut off activated but nothing happened then the smoke escaped. cut off relay winding smoked, and the smoke got away................
I hate it when the magic smoke escapes! Lucus had a jar of replacement smoke... I'll have to find the picture again.
English cars were the worst, with the positive ground systems. Early Jags were nice to look at, but would often leave you walking home.
didnt Lady Dianna piss off the whole country when she bought a mercedes instead of driving the jag? thought i read that somewhere and she said she wanted a car to drive not visit the mechanic every two days
I wouldn't doubt it. Now the Mini Cooper is made by BMW, because it took the Germans to make the darn thing reliable. Ford lost money when it bought into Jag, just in warranty claims. GM did as well, when they owned Opel and SAAB... (yeah SAAB is not British but close enough. SAAB is the sound that the owner makes upon leaving the mechanic shop).
Here is a link to the Lucas magic smoke replacement tool;
http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm
OIL BATH AIR CLEANER
Inside the top section there is a screen and then some kind of (unknown to me) fiber that filters air as it is sucked in. what in the hell is it?? where do you get it,,, can it be replaced with bulk brass wool???
The brass or copper wool is enclosed in a cartridge. You can clean it by soaking it in kerosene or solvent, then blowing it out with shop air. Dish soap and water will work in a pinch, as well. It shouldn't need to be replaced, but I did find a source for a used one.
https://powderriverordnance.com/shop...v=7516fd43adaa
I'm just finishing up my air cleaner project on the '48 and I figured out what I think is a nice trick.
We're not going to run our vehicles through sand piles and dust bowls, so the oil bath cleaner with a pint or so of oil in the bowl is a bit of overkill. I always manage to spill oil when I unlatch the cup to empty it.
I found a piece of foam sponge (pink, fairly soft - not hard) and cut it to fit probably two-thirds of the oil cup at the base of the filter. Then, I added enough oil to saturate the foam and leave a little oil exposed to catch dust. The oil still captures grit and dust as it turns the corner at the bottom of the filter, but it doesn't have the spill probability of a pan of oil.
Now, if I was running dirt roads or sand-buggying, this isn't a good idea, but if the dustiest place you go is a gravel driveway - maybe.
Sounds like a good plan to me. I like the looks of the original air cleaner, but yes the oil does go everywhere except the drain pan.
For those that are interested, there is a post where the folks over at G503 show the process for the conversion from an oil bath to a dry element filter;
http://legacy.1943mb.com/c-80-G503_W...ir_Filter.aspx
As a point, and counter point to this issue, here is a guy who had a rust issue after the conversion. I believe that if the air cleaner had been painted on the inside, then this would not have been a big issue. Being that the Jeep was stored outside under tarp, or inside a non climate controlled garage.
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/o...opic35142.html
Attachment 2956
this is out of tm 9 8014 and shows a piece i do not have, seems to be a short piece of tubing that goes over the carb intake and into the inlet hose from air cleaner. this connects the crankcase vent thru the oil filler.. page 153 of manual item E carb to aid intake pipe..................... got no idea where to find one of these (afro engineer)???
I just took this off the '48.
I'll send it to you because I'll not use it again and it will just knock around the shop until someone throws it away.
If you can't use it - you get to throw it away!
Oh, by the way. The guy on ebay just knocked $20 off the M38A1 voltage regulator. He might take an offer he can't refuse since folks aren't fighting over it.
thats the one,,,, i figured would have to make one diameter is 2,3 and pi X diameter = circumference figued 7,22" welded 22 guage with a fitting in it but this is so neat, yeah am watching that real close but got to stick in my budget and hopefully will get it next week
thank you thank you thank you and i love the card
TO DO LIST
completely cleaned air filter, was able to take out the fiberous (stuff) that was in the top part and actuall washed it in dish soap, came out pretty damned clean. washed and scrubbed the inside with dish soap also. sanded outside good and primed it and it is now USMC shitty green, same color as frame and body will be (looks brand new)
1. since the voltage regulator went south on me, that kinda screwed my plans a bit, was hoping to spend that money on some body panels. wasnt there something about the best layed plans of mice and men?? New Regulator
2. mount the steering,, and probably will brace it with a V shaped contraption out of wood, Murphys law, it is going to be covered by a tarp for a while and the thing is just too pricey to not do that. Already have the heat shield in place and one of the bolts from steering housing uses that
3. vacum lines?? IMHO will only hook up critical vacum lines a, line from oil filler to intake of carb b, dist and carb to a "T" then to powered fuel pump c, two lines from air filter one on the body the other on the top, too the same line that dist and carb are on with a "T" d, final (and jury still out on this one, just might not do it, aint gonna do the submarine thing) line from bell housing to pump. later on of course the window wipers
4. outside for a bath and then a good quality tarp, and move body to garage!!
this is rather curious, i have two air cleaners similar but not identical. both are from a M38A1 different years '52' 53 one has two air vent lines to go to vacuum pump with one of the holes in the top portion and the other hole in the bottom section of the cleaner. now the other cleaner has two holes also but they are side by side in the bottom section???Attachment 2971Attachment 2972Attachment 2973
why would there be two vacuum lines anyway, especially the black cleaner and they are side by side?? actually cleaned both of them up, blasted them then painted with the rust over treatment, then primer then paint, going to offer the black one for sale as soon as i get the parts together that i want to sell
here is a block diagram,,, not the best quality butmy printer decided it did not want to scan anymore so this is a photo
comments,,, the original submarine m38a1 is a nightmare of plumbing for the vents and i think is reduced it to what is really needed
Attachment 2976
As long as you are not planning any submarine action, the bell housing will not need to be induced into the vacuum system. Matter of fact, the master cylinder vent tube is a pain in the rear. To get in there to pull the vent tube, then pull the cap off the reservoir, then get it all back together will help you find religion. Napa should have bronze breather vents that will screw in place of the fittings. This will keep crud and bugs out while allowing the brakes to work. Here is a quick search of the internet on the breathers;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...&ul_noapp=true
The air cleaner on the right, (green) is an M151 air cleaner. The black is the correct unit for your project.
https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=184160
damn?? the green one was bolted to the firewall of the m38a1?? thought they went together?, and when i did a search at kaiser i asked for a M38A1 air cleaner and the green one came up?? well it was practice cleaning it up. and it just so happens i have a extra master cylinder that has a solid (SOLID NON VENTED CAP) GUESS WHERE ITS GOING???
By any chance, do the caps interchange?
Of course not .....
another air cleaner question, in my lifetime i doubt if i will be driving across dusty desserts, fording streams on Guadalcanal, evacuating from Inchon, o running up to the big PX on hill 327. So would one think that the 6" of clean stainless steel (wool) be enough for the air cleaner to provide clean air for the carb? putting oil in the bottom of the reservoir can be a messy proposition, am just thinking of not putting oil in there
I liked LarryBeards idea of soaking foam with oil to catch what little dirt may pass through the steel wool. It has been stated that the steel wool was good for stopping low flying birds.
When I saw the pictures of your air cleaners, it took me a few seconds to realize what it went to. The early models of M151 had the flat top air cleaner, while the later models had a rib formed around the top. I'll look and see what Kaiser's is offering.
another interesting item, the drag link. i have two of them, and i cleaned up one quite well, and i noticed on cleaning the secoond one for reference that they both had broken springs on them and they were both broken on the pittman side closer to the gear box. wonder if they were too tight? and the repair kit comes with new springs and one side will not be a issue but the front end one. five men and a little boy could not compress that spring and the way it is set up it has to bottom spring with curved piece in the spring, ball, then top end tightened down, here is the rub getting spring that curved piece and the damn arm in there at one time is going to try patience
I can not remember having any with a broken spring. I know that this item is seldom greased, but the springs were usually good to go upon reassembly. Being that I had not replaced the springs, I will have to do some research to see if others have had the same issue as you are seeing. The following videos should head you in the right direction.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWZjZyVJGqk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tSSnxgeSh0
Attachment 3015 springs i got in rebuild kit seem much longer than the ones i took out?
That could be the reason it won't go back together. As I looked at Yoo Toob videos, none of then needed five men and a waterboy to put it back together - and I don't recall that it was any big deal on the '48 either.....
NEW VOLTAGE REGULATOR ON ITS WAY expected arrival date 6 sep brush up on polarization again
Did you get a relay or solid state unit?
We're a lot smarter about Type A and Type B generators and regulators than we were a couple of months ago. Let me look at Type A vs Type B to be sure I've given you good info. Your generator field coils are polarized, so there is probably no need to zap
the regulator, but let me look.
Good to hear from you again.
I looked and poked around at all of the places I could think of.
Polarizing (flashing the field, full fielding - or whatever else it might be called) really only applies to generators, not the voltage regulator itself. Now, the process is often done at the voltage regulator terminals because all of the connections you need are right there, but it is a process for the generator, not the regulator.
The only reference I found about polarizing the regulator concerned a positive ground Ford tractor. We don't have to concern ourselves about that; all M38's are negative ground.
We know that your generator is properly polarized - it's not putting out -24 volts. It hasn't been sitting long enough to lose residual magnetism in the generator pole pieces. Rather than fish around in those connectors, I would just hook things up and light it off!
I think you're good to go.
Knew was in for a better day, made eggs this am and had two double yoke eggs in a row.....
success Then USPS delivered new regulator, put it in and a little over 29 volts at the battery
Attachment 3020Attachment 3021Attachment 3022Attachment 3023
Yeee - Hawwwww
Chalk up one for the old guys for a change!
Hey - take the day off on Monday.
Oops, we're retired - every day is a day off .....
putting my little boat in the water, and see if something wants to get into frying pan, have a 14' alumacraft with 15hp merc 4 stroke, goes like a bat outta hell, and have a trolling motor. wth right?
Good deal! You were destin for greatness today. Good luck on your fishing trip, hope your luck continues!
caught some speckled trout... 1/2 dozen kept 2 released the others. only keep what i am eating tonight. 15" perfect for frying pan, some baked beans, canned potatoes, and corn bread. regular shore lunch....
but did manage to get the steering box on and gonna wing it with the drag link, the instructions are confusing one picture has spring and curved piece in first then pitman arm and that dont work. so gonna put the bottom in and then the pitman and then the other curved piece then the spring...... then figure out the other end.. oh yeah need three bolts the ones i had look kinda bad so the thing is in there butnot tight enable to replace bolts and lock washers with new ones