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If I remember history correctly, left handed threads on the driver's side of vehicles can trace it's beginnings to horse drawn wagon days. The direction of travel would prevent the hubs from loosening up. That was the standard through the early sixties, on some vehicles. Years ago, I started a collection of left handed lug nuts. There is no way to tell them apart without examining the threads. At least the studs have an L on the end of them. Both my wagon and CJ2A have mixed and matched studs on the left side. Each stud has to be looked at, when removing a wheel. What a pain in the rear. When I get the notion, I will change them all out. Now with that being said, will I change the left side to left handed thread? Depends on my mood. I doubt there are too many wheel thieves, that are out looking for steel Jeep wheels.
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You are correct. 24 VDC at the distributor, and fuel supply. As long as the points are hot, the engine will run.
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damn, i did remember.....
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anyone got a suggestion for some product i can put in the block (coolant side) to help clean it out while it sits for a while...not planning on rebuilding real quick. but pulled the thermostat out and its pretty cruddy in there...
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I haven't tried this stuff myself, but it could be worth a try. I don't know if it will get the calcium build up out or not, but bathroom cleaner CLR would help with that.
Metal Rescue is a water based, environmentally friendly cleaner. It is supposed to be great at removing rust. Being water based, I don't know if one would want to coat the system with something to prevent rust from forming during storage.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rus...=sem#read-more
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WAS ALSO THINKING ABOUT CLR??? put it in and flush? then let dry dunno
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For the first start up, I'd just fill it with water so that if you have to open things up again, you can just drain it without having to catch and keep it or dispose of in an environmentally responsible manner (!~).
Auto Zone gives 10% discount to vets...
https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-...ner/223022_0_0
NAPA usually has Prestone stuff in stock as well.
This cuts grease and oil as well as calcium and rust . Run it until it gets hot, let it sit for a day. Repeat daily for a couple of days - then dump it and flush!
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Yes, I would put in the CLR, then flush. The Metal Rescue, if it works as advertised, should remove any rust residue. Again, if it works, it should leave you with a grey coating on the iron surfaces. I didn't find anything stating that you would need to coat the surface to keep it that way. Once the oxidation is removed, I would think you would be good to go from there. It took 60 plus years to create any gunk, a year or two in storage won't hurt it. Cap the openings to keep out critters, then fog the cylinders. The engine will be ready for hibernation.
The Prestone cooling system flush works well, but it relies on temperature and pressure. The biggest downside to the in chassis flush, is that most people do not remove the radiator. Unless you flush one way, then reverse the flow back the other way, (leave the lower radiator hose attached to the water pump. Then when reversing the flow back through the radiator, and flow out the lower hose) you do not get all the crud out. The particles become trapped in the radiator. Also the thermostat would need to be removed also. A lot of overheating issues are caused by crud being deposited in the radiator.
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And i found out once a flush can destroy seals in pumps, thought i needed to do that on my '49 ford coupe, all i did was screw up two water pumps, and they were a bitch to change out.
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At least the CLR will dissolve the calcium deposits. Flush is made to sell more antifreeze and parts.
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OLD SCHOOL... WAS TAUGHT THAT CARB GASKETS ARE DRY, AND VALVE COVER USED PERMATEX (NEW STUFF THAT BRUSHES ON) Actually went to local box type auto store and asked for crush washers. got a blank stare, at least he did not say "No Habla"
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We used Permatex shellac for everything from sealing gaskets, to sealing cuts and scrapes. The only thing I use the local parts box type stores for is a free place to dump my used oil. The loaner tool isn't any good either. I broke down and used one of their torsion bar tools for a late model Tahoe for a project my son in law had, and the threads were galled beyond use. We had to go to three different stores to find a descent one.
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any way to unload or show a little video, stuck my phone into access port of bell housing and got a little video of throwout bearing working?
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anyone tell me what this is,,, came loose in jeep with some other stuff??
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It looks like the guts of a Craftsman ratchet wrench. It's not Jeep related, I'm fairly certain in that.
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one thing i have noticed and that is the new brake lines are not covered, the attach kit has little braids of protective fabric that goes around the lines?? but since the jeep will not go "hither and yon" or make a beachhead landing. should not be a problem. My plan now is to re establish all the brake systems and rebuild entire jeep with all new brakes and lines. wheel cylinders and master cylinder. then four tires and two more rims so i can roll it a bit. then to tackle steering,, all the steering is good with exception of the "tube" it is encased in and the horn wiring, and a new wheel mine is kinda shot. last step is body (yuk) will take considerable welding. a lot more skill than i possess that is for sure, but have a guy that said if I tack it on( new pieces) where it sits where does not move he will clean weld it from then on. that sounds good, need passenger floor, tool box, rear deck and rear panel (taligate) and passenger side fender repair (rust) all the support frrames on bottomAttachment 2012Attachment 2013
do these shoes look completely worn out or in my opinion hardly used,, take away the rust and?? now the odometer said 15k miles
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Some of the American made brake lines, (https://quartertonparts.com/shop/) have pre bent brake lines that have cloth coverings for where the clamps go. Being that you are not planning to storm any beaches, you will be just fine. The cloth retains moisture anyway, if you were to be out driving around in the rain.
Body work on a M38A1 isn't bad to do. The last one I had my hands on, was so bad that the cowl and the tub were only connected by the top of the door sill. It came out well.
Attachment 1995Attachment 1996Attachment 1997Attachment 1998Attachment 1999
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wow, the photos before look very familiar, got lots to do
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well, waiting for the socket to pull the last drum off, but i have dismantled all of the brake systems on each drum that i can (exception the one that i can not get drum off due to not having the socket yet) but all of the shoes are simply just not worn nor need to be replaced. will remplace all of the springs, rusty.. and of course new cylinders, but shoes are in great shape, must be that the odometer correct 15k miles nothing. too bad this critter just sat out in the rain like most of our rolling stock does now
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The original brake shoes are far better than the non asbestos brake shoes made now a days. A couple of good taps with a hammer and punch is enough to loosen the hub nuts. The socket is nice, but not always necessary for disassembly. Now, to install, the socket is a must use.
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after spending 45 minutes on one of the drum screws, and 1/2 can of propane, broke out the drill and knocked the head off of each one and the rear drums came right off. just one of the front drums came off. the other one will require pulling the hub after pulling the big nut. but most of the hardware is toast, so new springs and the hold down springs
not sure about the adj bolt, that is used to adj the shoes, got to take a closer look but WTH couple of bucks and Kaiser toy store.. I measured each shoe and they all are about .198 to .200 lots of life in all of them. all of the cylinders that i have removed are toast, rebuild kit versus new ones is a no brainer, four new ones around. the brakes froze with the cylinders out and the shoes right up against the drum. will have that socket after the first. need clips to hold the steel brake line to the flex one, but again they are out there. feel exceptionally confident that the restored jeep will have good solid brakes. better than my 35 ford with the mechanical brakes!!!
got to say this,,, wonder who the rocket scientist was that came up with right hand and left hand lug nuts and same for studs. can see it in the pouring down rain having to do multiple tire changes, and lug nuts getting all mixed up.. not to mention adding to a huge federal stock number deal, different lug nuts for one freakin jeep. this does not impress me at allAttachment 2014 left rear ready to rebuild
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The left hand threads traces its roots to the horse drawn wagon days. The left side was left handed threads to prevent the hub nuts from backing off while traveling forward.... Horses didn't back up much. I know my 63 wagon still has one hub that has left handed studs. Good thing the stud has an L on the end of it. I doubt there is many shops that know to look for it. They would most likely break the studs off trying to remove a wheel. I often think that if I change out studs, I will stay with left handed studs just for aggravation. Mine or whomever ends up with my collection when I tip over.
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oh well. not today, but in future will wind up with all four wheels right handed
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THINKING OUR LOUD.... just so happens i have a 1955 chevy V8 265 cu inches, few goodies on it, headman headers, new pistons circa 1965, good ignition (old school) 1 AFB carb, small but potent cam. got a extra jeep frame. hmmmm hmmmm crazy????
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I can see potential there. Crazy....No.
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crazy yes....Beef up frame, close it in and make it pure box beam. new rear end, chevy four speed hurst shifter, custom drive shaft, modify or hang a new front end... drop engine in,,, already checked measurements and it will fit fine. pair of 36" cherry bombs some kind of a body??? HMMM in fact I know where there is a 32 roadster shell with no rust... roadster with a jeep front end????? call it a jeefster?? still only in the thinking stage crazy???? pair or road slicks on *** end, wide whitewalls on front and moon caps i know this 265 does not weigh as much as the 134. no way paint it fire freakin engine hot rod red
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No, not crazy. I'm liking the direction this is heading. The jeep front grill will work out well. I know where there is an extra late model Willys wagon grill that could be had for cheap. Not the one in the photo, but same design. A 32 roadster body would blend in rather well, in my mind.
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damn, screwed up again.. ordered a bunch of brake stuff, flex hoses, s lines so forth and forgot the damn crush washers. Also, damn if i can find references to crush washers in brake lines in the manual?? when i took the old brake lines off both M38A1's that i have there were not crush washers in any of the brake lines that i took apart, unless they were so tiny i missed them??? confusing?? i called mike at kaiser and he said "you need them" so order more "stuff:
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The crush washers are important, but I too have seen a lot of seasoned cars without the washers. Crush washers will prevent a lot of brake issues from outward leaks, to air entering the system. At least Kaiser Willys keeps these in stock. Gone are the days of going into a true auto parts house, digging through drawers of assortments of anything you could possibly want.
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Crush washers - Page 111 in the catalog with the skinny chick on the cover.....
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well, that makes sense. fluid leaks are a pain in the *** but this thing has ten of them at least 4 wheel cylinders, 4 flex hoses lot of steel pipe fittings oh well it is what it is aint it
wonder if going to a auto parts store would be a futile waste of time. kinda choke on a crush washer smaler than my little fingernail costing 2.00
no trouble in the catalog finding them (yeah she is kinda boney aint she oops can i say that here) but now i have not read the maint manual cover to cover (can think of better bed side reading) but have looked seriously at it and just can not find a reference to any crush washers on brake line layout??
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The most important crush washers are for the banjo fitting at the master cylinder. The washers are used to seal up the through bolt, because the fluid travels through the bolt to the banjo fitting. Other that those two washers, I can not come up with any others. The rubber hoses, the brake lines screw into the end, and the S line ties into the other end of the rubber. The wheel cylinders tie into the hard axle line. No other crush washers are needed. I looked at the catalogue, and I saw the crush washers for $1.99, but they are for later model CJ5s. 1977-81 and 1982-86. Mainly the AMC days of Heeps needed the extra sealing help.....
We use copper conical seals on the stainless hydraulic lines within the turrets of our big riffle (105 MM), but stainless will not seal well when the fitting is stainless also. The conical seal fits between the inside of the tubing flair and the fitting. The copper creates a viable, soft surface that will seal the connection.
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No crush washers at wheel cylinders or at junction blocks, just at Master Cylinder.
We did put crush washers under the bolts that hold the side plate on the steering gear box since we filled it with oil - not grease (another story).
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somewhere there is a video of the very first prototype jeep saw it once was kinda cool, and the ever popular jeep came from that
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If you ever find yourself in Huntsville AL, there is the US Veteran's Memorial Museum, http://www.memorialmuseum.org/displays. They have examples of all the prototypes submitted to the Government, (Bantam, Willys, and Ford). They have a reference library there also, that may have a copy of said video.
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One thing I tried and it worked. kept needing a 3rd hand to do the brakes. had trouble putting in the retention spring, needed to hold the shoe and the little rod that goes thru the retention spring, actually got kinda pissed at it. took both shoes and just placed them in and took some electrical tape and made three loops around both shoes to hold them in and then the retention spring install was quite a bit more manageable. left the tape there for the upper and lower spring. made quite a difference anyway. well it worked for me.....just passing it on, but she has new brakes for and aft.... and new cylinders. brake lines and master cylinder next. one thing i did notice is that the individual wheels do not conform to the pictured in the manual,,, rear end one side had short shoe in back and one had short shoe in front?? some tech bulletin? maint chief tell the troops it dont matter?? who knows but i put mine like they were in the picture with short shoe in the back
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You were correct in following the manual. The short shoe goes to the rear. An engineer with a higher paid grade once figured that the leading shoe would be the dominate stopping force, with the rear shoe there to back it up the front. As far as installing the shoes, I found that holding the shoes in place with my knees, then using a pair of vise grips on the spring to create the leverage needed to push the spring home. The vise grips works a whole lot easier than the brake spring tool, in my opinion.
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HMMMMM i actually have found tht the brake ool actually works for me..pops that spring right in there, but i finaggle the bottem short spring in when i add the second shoe. just drops on in, and taking out so simple also.....one more thing off the list..