You can't beat forward progress. Now for the fun part. The master cylinder isn't too bad, and the new brake lines will be time consuming, but not difficult.
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You can't beat forward progress. Now for the fun part. The master cylinder isn't too bad, and the new brake lines will be time consuming, but not difficult.
WELL ISSUE NUMBER (I FORGET)....
Being a chicken, i sent my fuel pump into Kaiser for their guys to do the magic. i felt i would gorp it up. Got a call from Mike, seems my fuel pump is civilian version? damn looks just like the picture in manual?? what the heck i will never tell anyone that the new fuel pump is civilian version of military pump, and the new one is 15.00 cheaper than rebuild. what ya gonna do, just go with the flow
There is a good chance that the new fuel pump will deliver a higher pressure than the older pump. Go ahead and put a regulator between the pump and carburetor so you can set fuel pressure where you want it. (Go ahead - ask me how I learned that...)
Yep, that's right...
a regulator, pressure i take it, have no idea where or how to get one or even what they look like, new to me
I don't believe that you would be happy with the appearance of a pressure regulator between the fuel pump and carburetor. Even if you paint the usually chrome regulator, it will still stick out like a sore thumb on even a motor pool quality restoration. I've run constant flow/pressure electric fuel pumps for years on the derby cars that I built. Ran a simple Holley 500 two barrel carb on them all. As long as the needle and seat are in good shape, and the float is set right, there are no problems. My wagon has a sbc with the original Quadra-junk carb on it, and a stock fuel pump. When the engine was good and warm, gas would start to poor out of the throttle shaft bushings. Come to find out that the accelerator pump was shot, and pulling air, and the needle and seats were shot, causing the fuel to fill up and come out the vent into the throat of the carb. With the excess gas being dumped into the throat, the throttle blades were pretty much closed, thus allowing the excess fuel to run out of the bushings.
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-system...or-and-control
My F-134 used a Carter YF, which was not too tolerant of fuel pressures above 5 PSI. The M38 uses a bit different carburetor, but excess pressure may be an issue even with that one.
We tried adding spacers to reduce fuel pump stroke, but that made the fuel pump lever clack on the cam lobe - not something we wanted since clacks induce fatigue cracks and failures.
I looked a bit amd I found what looks like my unit, a "Mr. Gasket 9710". Google it to see what it looks like.
The attached picture shows it hanging in the lash-up while we were testing things.
You can paint it to match the engine color, hide it down behind the oil filter. It hardly shows now with everything buttoned up. Hopefully you won't need one.
No joke GI - runs good, lasts a long time.
$0.02
Google "Mr. Gasket 9710". That's the beast.
what should the pressure be regulated to ?? psi??. i know on my kubot diesel i had a mechanical pump and said nuts to that priming a diesel with a mechanical pump a PIA. bought a electreic and made bleeding and priming so so so easy. miss that liettle 30hp bugger...
today got all the brake lines in and all the flex hoses in with all the clips holding them together,,, master cyl next then can wrap it up. fuel pump then fire the critter up
Fuel pressure should be between 4 to 5 psi. The benefit to using an electric fuel pump would be that it can be switched individually from the ignition. When you park the Jeep for any length of time, you can switch off the pump, and run the remaing fuel out of the carb. The second benefit would be that the pump could act as a security feature. You can put the switch in a location that is hidden, so that no one would be able to start the Jeep, and take off with it. The down side, you have another switch that you will have to hide to keep the original appearance. The second would be splitting the voltage to have only 12 volts for the pump.
The 54-60 Shop Manual shows 2 1/2 to 3 3/4 fuel pressure for the single barrel Carter YF (measured @ 1800 rpm). The M38 may be different.
On the '48 I run it at about 3-pounds and it's never had a problem with too little or too much.
Splitting the M38 24-volt system to get 12-volts for a pump isn't a problem.
But - do whatever you dern well feel like!
lots of good ideas there.. have a HF radio (TWO EXTRA ICOM 706'S) that needs 12vdc, thinking of using the correct antenna mount, shell only and auto tuner (hidden) with a icom hf.THEN CAN BE WB6LNH WILLYS MOBILE).. darn am so close to fireing up the old girl,,, fuel pump, master cylinder, finalize brakes, bleed them, two 12volt batteries and jury rig ignition. getting anxious to hear it run. salvaged a good header pipe from one of the jeeps, in really good shape, might throw dmuffler on it and go for it soon SOON, will video the beast running on its own
FRONT BRAKE LINES
Attachment 2091Attachment 2092
i have two transfer cases, one that is set up for emergency brake with external brake shoes the other with internal brake shoes, is it possible to exchange them, do not have the complete emergency/parking brake that uses external shoes and is rather simple but am missing some pieces and parts. i have a complete transmission/transfer case withe the brake that has the internal shoes complete, just need new shoes, but it is on the other tansmission/transfer case combination. looking for a diagram of the whole thing and so far have not found it.
The following diagram is from Kaiser Willys;
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...cy-brake-m38a1
i have another translmission with transfer case that has the other kind of parking brake, can i convert the transfer case to put in the other park brake? seems to be one piece that allows tht to be done and that is in the diagramAttachment 2093Attachment 2094Attachment 2095
The first diagram, as you figured is the correct parking brake configuration for you A1. The two diagrams are for a civilian CJ 2A through 3B, with the cane handle in the dash. The big difference is the way the brake is actuated. The M38A1 pulls up towards the body to engage the brake. The civilian pulls the brake lever forward towards the transmission, through a push/pull cable that connects to the cane handle in the dash. Now you mentioned that you have one parking brake set up with external shoes. That has me thinking back if I've run across anything besides a John Deere two cylinder clutch that utilizes an external brake shoe.... I can't come up with any, because even the examples put out by Dodge, (M37) had internal shoes. I could be wrong, and often times are. The pictures below was of the 52 M38A1 that I had done all the body repairs to. When the body was still on the frame, you can see the parking brake handle, with the rod going down to the bottom of the brake assembly, attaching to the actuator with a clevis and pin. The actuator arm then travels upward, applying the brake shoes. Adjustment was made through shortening the length of the rod going to the actuator arm. To answer your question, yes the brake set up will fit on your transfer case, but no it will not work with the brake lever between the seats. If the external brake set up is much like the first drawing, I would figure out what I'm missing, and go for that. The CJ set would be way too much of a head ache, in my opinion.
PROBABLY CORRECT, lots of pieces and parts to get. bought transmissions and 4wd set up apart from jeeps,, but now have two complete engines and transmissions with transfer cases. both cruddy on outside but clean sharp gears inside. got to collect parts for parking brake, until then guess its leave it in gear and get a brick
My 46 hasn't had a functional parking brake since I've had it. I've collected everything to rebuild the whole assemble, but have not done it. As long as the engine has compression, it stays where I left it.
Reverse holds it really well, and you don't forget to take it out of reverse....
KOOL, but still gonna find all the pieces and parts, all i have for the m38a1 is one rusty parking break handle
The parking brake handle is a good start, and probable the most expensive part. Check with these guys below. They keep a lot of used parts, and NOS replacement parts for Willys military Jeeps. I've purchased a lot from them, and have had no complaints. Their prices are reasonable also.
https://quartertonparts.com/product-category/brakes/
FOR TEMPORARY USE AND JUST TO START IT UP... will use a mechanical guage for oil pressure. now since it is pretty positive that many of the original features of the m38a1 have been lost to history in this motor, damn if i can find the place where the actual oil will go to the sending unit. there is a strange oil line that is on the oil pump side that goes from bottom of engine to the head on back of motor, what in the heck is that?. do you put a "T" fitting where the oil goes to the filter for the oil pressure?? damifiknow
There are four oil galley ports on the driver's side of the block. They are in line with the oil pump, and are spaced along the length of the block. The oil pressure gauge sending unit attaches to the last rear galley port, closest to the bell housing. The sending unit can be attached right to that port, but I have seen a couple of examples where the sending unit was mounted on the passenger side of the engine. I would look to where the wiring harness lays, in regards to where I would mount it. You can use that port for running a mechanical oil pressure gauge, or any of the other three. The line that you were wondering about may be a fording vent line. The following links should get you going in the right direction.
http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=219337
http://www.surplusjeep.com/M38A1/m38...tem_-_Exploded
lets talk about wheels. i have what are supposed to be correct wheels for the m38a1 however i feel that what i have are not correct. They only fit on the rear they will not go on the front. have looked at kaiser willys and seen theirs and kinda pricey for steel wheels, but if that is it then that is it. also were they in fact split rims? i had a old dodge truck that had huge wheels and they were split rims and tire shops had cages that they took them apart. damn things could explode consequently they were worked on inside a cage to work on. think old mr tire worker guy did not want to get killed having a wheel explode. whats he deal?
AND ONE MORE THING DONE BEFORE WE FIRE HER UP.... ME AND THIS GUY GONNA FIRE HER UPAttachment 2102 Attachment 2101
They were solid rims.
Curiosity - what doesn't fit, bolt circle or clearance for hub?
Did you have a brake drum swap out somehow and now the fronts and rears don't match?
clearance for hub? just is lacking a bit,, got paint on there maybe thats it??
The 41 through 45 Willys MB used what was called a combat rim. These rims where two piece rims that were bolted together along the center disk. These are different from split rims meaning that they did not have the retainer ring that went around the outside diameter of the rim, like your Dodge truck. The correct wheel for your M38A1 is a 16" x 4.5". The easy way to recognize a military Kelsey Hayes 16" wheel, is that next to one stud on one of the bolt circle, there is a small 1/8" hole.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...ewtopic&t=9635
The attached photos are of my 46 CJ2A, with the civilian 16 x 4.5" wheels and 700 x 16" tires. The last photo is of a Dodge M37 with the split rims.
Here is a better view of the M37 split rims. The second picture is of the M38A1, with a couple of the original factory wheels and tires. Some of the tires were date stamped 1952, and still where in descent shape.
something really wrong with what i have or what i was told i have?? 17 5/8 X 5 3/4 just think i have wrong rims??
Attachment 2113
That is an M151 MUTT wheel. That's why it won't fit over the front hub. The bolt pattern is correct, but the center hub opening is smaller than a Willys. The offset will be different also. the tire will be tucked closer to the frame, and will not look right with the body on.
gmwillys - Is there anything you don't have at least one of?
Ira - Awhh, man. You've done such a nice job of refinishing a wheel you can't use. Somebody out there needs it!
That's the problem, I take on other people's projects, then don't get to my own. At one time I had five Willys, and one Mutt at the house. Only three of them belonged to me.
The M151A2 belongs to a guy I worked with. It was sitting in his back yard for several years. He was down on his luck, so I offered to do some rust repair. The floors were pretty much gone, so it took a lot of metal work. It was good therapy for him, to clean up all the piece parts. He is now driving it around, and enjoying it once again.
The 1952 Dodge M37 belonged to my father. He bartered for it from the local volunteer fire district. It had less than 12,000 original documented miles on it. It resided in Washington State now, with its new owner.
Pelago, there is a market out there for your M151 rims. Since you have spent the time to get them perfect, I don't see you having any issues. If you get desperate, I do have the four 16" civilian wheels that we could come to an agreement on. I have to believe that they were original to the 47 CJ2A I had, and maybe the tires also. The tires hold air, but that's about it. The side walls are coming off in chunks, but I have driven up town on them. I have several 15" wheels, but they just don't look right on the M38A1.
There should be a market out there for the M151 wheels. Since you've gone through and made them pretty, you should be able to get a fair price for them. The going price on line is $99.00 for motor pool fresh wheels. These have the original multi layers of paint. You may try and get $150 for yours.
LarrBeard,
My neighbors never know what I may drag home next.
We're old soldiers and sailors here, so you knew we were going to ask...
What are the details on the cannon?
Thank you all for your service, first of all.
The cannon is a reproduction Napoleon 3/4 scale. The barrel was purchased from a college professor who had it set on the diving board of his pool. It was weathered, but intact. The carriage and blacksmithing was hand built by my father. The wagon wheels were found at a farm auction, if I remember correctly. The bore was between 2 1/2" and 2 3/4". Again from memory. The cannon would consume a 35 mm film canister, and a half of black powder... However many grains of powder that is? It was a crowd pleaser.
i have a cannon ball with that diameter, i actually found that on a farm that was on the periphery of stones creek battlefield, my great grand father fought there and later became the commanding officer of old soldiers home in danville il later it became the va hospital
We are just such endless founts of arcane knowledge around here.
For those reading along, black powder is graded by grain size. Black powder for cannons is generally #1, the next finer grade is Fg, followed by FFg (generally considered as a rifle powder) and FFFg, pistol powder.
Since I was overcome with curiosity (it's winter and its too dern cold to get out of the house), I found a 35mm film can and I filled it with FFFg black powder to get an idea of just how many grains would be in a film cannister.
Drum roll ... a film cannister is about 475 grains of FFFg. I would guess that #1 or even Fg would not pack as tightly - be less dense- so guess 425 or 400 grains to a cannister and a cannister and a half of cannon powder would be about 600 grains (plus or minus, your results may vary).
Doing a little arithmetic - with a cast iron ball, you would have a 3-pounder!
Now - a Jeep question:
Since I'm not a "little Jeep" person, I'm not familiar with "combat wheels". I looked and read that they were two-pieces, bolted together front and back with 8 bolts and, from what I can see - they are precious now.
Why are they called "combat wheels" and why two pieces.
Old coots want to know!