Attachment 2804Attachment 2805
are we talking about item Nr 1 in larger photo?
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Attachment 2804Attachment 2805
are we talking about item Nr 1 in larger photo?
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr............. ...........
putting it down for a while before i get mad at it and hurt it
Number one would be the culprit if it is grooved where the seal rides. Had to order a couple of yokes for mine. I read somewhere there is a ready sleeve (or redi-sleeve?) kit available to do a repair if desired but I don’t have specific info for that.
Speedy sleeve, is what we always called it. On heavy dirt equipment, a lot of the crank shaft front seals would get grooved up with dirt intrusion. The speedy sleeves work well. The sleeve bonds to the crank surface, and the seal rides on the sleeve.
Gear box almost assembled...
Have the center rod that trips the switch, then the cap/race then the spring then the piece the screws into the rod, then the cap...
Aint no way that i can figure out how to get that cap on top of the tubing??? Not unless i destroy it.. Darned camera somehow does not want to send photos to my email so i can save em and post here
found out why the top bearing will not go in and catch, it is our of round and not sure if i want to try and repair?? called mike they are sending another under warranty. good place
Attachment 2807
this is rather interesting, wonder why one end assembled different from other end
That is a good question. I've never noticed a difference in the parts when removing them. I don't think I've ever seen two item 'C' on one end. Ponderous.
happen to have two of them only taken one apart. pretty ucky, however it was like the diagram. so guess it is correct,. but, seems to stupid old me just more parts to have to stock somewhere where same parts on either end would work fine(but maybe they dont work fine and someone found that out) so, i re assembled it according to diagram and will put on soon. The rebuild kit i got is complete with all new pieces and parts, with exception of grease fittings
Grease zerks are easy to come by. Napa should have all that you need.
I can say I learned something today, about the drag link.
being your basic money scrooge i too the ones off soaked them in carb cleaner and worked the little ball and they cleaned up and are ready for another 60yrs but got some when i was re assembling the suspension old one really bad and used napa, have read all the manuals on the jeep and can find nothing about "servicing the air cleaner" i forgot how to do it, other than cleaning it how much oil goes in it? went on internet and did not find squat...
and if i remember the cleaning part was shall we say messy
It just so happens that I am in the middle of an air cleaner project. I've got some money, about half a day, two or three wire wheels and about 2 square inches of skin invested in the project to date.
On the oil cup, there should be a stamped line that says OIL LEVEL. The cup takes whatever oil you use in the engine - even used engine oil is OK since all that oil does is trap dirt, stray rain water and crud. The little sump gets NASTY!
Basic cleaning is dumping the oil and dirt out of the cup, wipe it out with a rag, add oil and put it back together. The filter mesh does not come out of most cleaners. Once or twice in a lifetime, the whole cleaner needs to be washed. Yep, it's a mess. I like a two-gallon (or whatever) bucket and a gallon of K-2 kerosene. (Diesel stinks too much!).
A gallon of kerosene in the bucket, sit the filter in it, swish it around, pour some kerosene through it to get the dust and residual oil out of the filter mesh and you're good for a whole lot of around town hours.
Got to go away again seems like cellulitis has returned with a vengeance attacking bone at us hosp navy hosp camp lejeune nc
Get well soon, my friend. We are all pulling for a speedy recovery.
Does anyone have Ira's amateur call sign? I can use that to chase down his address and send the old coot a card....
Sorry Sir. I know he is not far from Camp Lejeune, but have never asked a hard location.
If you do find out, send me a private message, and I'll send one as well.
I stand corrected Senior Chief. Again, if you run across any Intel, I would appreciate it.
AM BACK, NOT A FUN FOUR DAYS, TWO SURGERIES, FINAL OUTCOME STILL UP IN AIR, SERIOUS INFECTION THAT TURNED SEPTIC..... BUT GOT RELEASED AND SENT HOME WITH A iv SET UP IN ARM HOME HEALTH CARE FOR THREE WEEKS WITH SUPER ANTIBIOTICS DAILY... THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR CONCERN, THIS IS A PRETTY GOOD BUNCH EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE SQUIDS HERE.........................
Glad to hear from you. Keep us advised of how you are progressing, and if the is anything that you need.
Welcome back you grumpy old coot. We worried about you.
What is your call sign?
de WB9UFS
bad news. have to get home health care and they will charge me $100.00 a day for 21 days,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, can not afford that, so looks like will be going back to navy hosp at camplejeune........
Ira Jones
3rd floor ward
usn regional medical center
camp lejeune nc 20540 (?) not sure of last two numbers
910 581 0148 and will have cell phone, am taking the willys catalog to see what numbers i need for parts for body
shXt...... not what i want to do at all want to finish the steering and that stuff
ANCHORS AWAEIGH to my navyt (squid ) friends
semper fi to marines
uha to army guys
coasties dont knw what they use
anyway you are a great bunch of guys and am proud to have you all as friends
Ira R Jones Jr (Rick)
We are proud to have you as one of our own. We are all pulling for you to get well soon!
When you get out and feeling better, we may all need to gather together for a weekend of Jeep building? Just a thought.
Good night Chesty, wherever you are.
at home again, two days of intensive antibiotic 24hrs a day continuous vancomycin (sp) which is supposed to be the strongest there is, and after that, they did not want to give any more that way because if kidney issues, it can screw themn up...dont need that.................. anyway at home with health care nurse for morphene and a milder antibiotic daily for a while. so me and my IV pole worked on jeep steering (after she left) different approach with a load of morphine, it almost got a hammer.....
here is the rub, how in the hell do you get the top race bearing in the tube. i just gorped up a 9.00 bearing trying to get it in the shaft by going thru bottom and hoping it would slide inside to where it has to sit. last damn pieces shaft, inside oil seal, top race, long pin for horn (long thin rod that goes inside everything to activate switch at bottom (engineers really needed to look at that twice). that damn top race bearing full off little bearings and how in the hXll does it go together
Ira;
It's good to have you back. Things are too quiet with you in sick bay.
Don't overdo it - let the good stuff do its work. Modern versions of Vancomycin are not too hard on the kidneys and strangely enough the original less pure versions could cause hearing problems ...HUH? Current practice is to limit the dosage to keep the little critters in your system from developing their own immunity to it.
When you get your morphine, does your home health care nurse write a big M and the time on your forehead with a grease pencil like corpsmen used to do?
Good luck figuring out how to get those little bearings down the tube...
does your home health care nurse write a big M and the time on your forehead with a grease pencil
AS CUTE AS SHE IS SHE COULD WRITE ANYTHING ANYWHERE
That's the spirit, don't let them get you down. You need one of those beer helmets to attach your juice bag to, so you don't have to drag around the pole. Just a thought.
Look through the videos put out by metal shaper on you tube. I'm confident he covered the assembly of the steering column on a CJ 3. The only difference would be the horn would be a wire, instead of the shaft. When I get back home, I'll see if I can find the link.
Glad to have you back!
WENT OVER THERE AND LOOKED, great video on rebuilding the box, and i used that to do just that. but damn no videos on tube. Mike said it goes in from the top, but it is bigger round than the damn shaft is has to go inAttachment 2848 Attachment 2849 that and configure the horn is all i need to do, box rebuilt and peeeeeerty, while waiting i am wire brushing the air cleaner, complete and in great shape no rust no dents ready to go when it is black.. got an extra one also
It was a thought. I know I've seen where someone put out a video about the steering column bearings, but do not remember quite were I saw it. I'll poke around and see if I can come up with anything.
the two bearings inside pretty straight forward bu the column??
I think either the generator or voltage regulator went south, voltmeter only reading battery
Have you full field the generator, and measured at the generator. LarrBeard had laid out the process better than anyone, so he can chime in and post.
Getting to the armature and field on an M38A1 generator is a pain if you have to fish in the connectors, but it is the same process. Put a lantern battery on the field, spin the generator and check armature (with no load on generator). Probably well over 50 volts in a 24-volt system.
I would not count out a wire problem since its been charging OK for a while.
i disconnected the wire going to voltage regulator. not sure which is which simple 3 connector plug. started engine up and got low voltage across field and winding way low, but not sure if that is correct test. maybe i got lucky though, there is a electric shop here and the owner appears to be comfortable with old cars and is a admirer and likes to work on "old stuff" and did find a "repair" kit on ebay that has all (think) pieces and parts on ebay
The 24 volt system is harder to troubleshoot, because all the connectors are sealed. When you disconnected the connector, you will see that the voltage is low. With the connector unhooked, then the regulator is taken out of the equation, thus the generator doesn't produce but a standby amount of voltage. There are some service kits that come up from time to time on Ebay, that the government had produced for troubleshooting all gas fueled military engines. The kit includes T harnesses that hook into your regulator harness so that the voltage can be measured while hooked up. The kit includes a 24 volt timing light, and instructions.
Your local electrical repair shop should be able to get you pointed in the right direction. He sounds like he knows his way around a generator.
Here is a reprint of my "Full Field" instructions for a 12-volt system.
On the M38A1, the ARM terminals are A and C in the generator connector, For this test, you only need one of them. FIELD is B. Even with the regulator disconnected, you will get some voltage from the ARM terminal from residual magnetism in the field pole pieces. The case is ground.
Full fielding a generator is a term used to describe the process where you drive a bunch of current into the field coil to see just how much voltage the generator will produce. The voltage output of a generator is regulated by limiting the current going into the field coil.
There are a lot of ways to do this, but here is a way that is pretty safe and won't damage anything.
Go get a big square six-volt lantern battery - the kind with spring contacts.
You will need a couple of jumper leads to connect it to the generator. You are going to use this battery to provide current to the generator field coil to create a magnetic field in the generator. The lantern battery won't deliver enough current to damage anything. Connect the NEGATIVE terminal to the generator ground terminal.
Disconnect the field and armature leads from the generator. The ARMATURE is generally the larger of the two insulated terminals, the FIELD is the smaller. GROUND or NEGATIVE is the screw into the generator frame.
Connect a voltmeter to the armature terminal of the generator. If it's a manual voltmeter, set to read about 50-volts (you can adjust later). Start the vehicle (generator is turning). Connect the POSITIVE terminal of the battery to the generator's FIELD terminal.
You should get a significant voltage reading on the voltmeter. Vary engine speed and the voltage should vary - higher speed, higher voltage. Don't be surprised at 35 or more volts on a 12-volt system - that's why you disconnected the ARMATURE terminal on the generator; 35-volts doesn't do batteries or bulbs any good.
If you get the high voltage from the generator, you have pretty well proven that the generator is working.
I don't like to full field a generator using the vehicle battery because it can deliver LOTS of amps into the field coil. The lantern battery will current limit itself below damage level.
Don't run at the high voltage too long, just satisfy yourself that things work. It is not out of the question that the "new" voltage regulator is defective. We had a new regulator fail when we were doing the '48 (another oh-by-the-way) and we used this process to isolate whether the 70-year old generator or new regulator was the problem.
If the generator checks OK - I'd replace the regulator after I checked all of the wiring.
Let us know what you find.Full fielding a generator is a term used to describe the process where you drive a bunch of current into the field coil to see just how much voltage the generator will produce. The voltage output of a generator is regulated by limiting the current going into the field coil.
There are a lot of ways to do this, but here is a way that is pretty safe and won't damage anything.
Go get a big square six-volt lantern battery - the kind with spring contacts.
You will need a couple of jumper leads to connect it to the generator. You are going to use this battery to provide current to the generator field coil to create a magnetic field in the generator. The lantern battery won't deliver enough current to damage anything. Connect the NEGATIVE terminal to the generator ground terminal.
Disconnect the field and armature leads from the generator. The ARMATURE is generally the larger of the two insulated terminals, the FIELD is the smaller. GROUND or NEGATIVE is the screw into the generator frame.
Connect a voltmeter to the armature terminal of the generator. If it's a manual voltmeter, set to read about 50-volts (you can adjust later). Start the vehicle (generator is turning). Connect the POSITIVE terminal of the battery to the generator's FIELD terminal.
You should get a significant voltage reading on the voltmeter. Vary engine speed and the voltage should vary - higher speed, higher voltage. Don't be surprised at 35 or more volts on a 12-volt system - that's why you disconnected the ARMATURE terminal on the generator; 35-volts doesn't do batteries or bulbs any good.
If you get the high voltage from the generator, you have pretty well proven that the generator is working.
I don't like to full field a generator using the vehicle battery because it can deliver LOTS of amps into the field coil. The lantern battery will current limit itself below damage level.
Don't run at the high voltage too long, just satisfy yourself that things work. It is not out of the question that the "new" voltage regulator is defective. We had a new regulator fail when we were doing the '48 (another oh-by-the-way) and we used this process to isolate whether the 70-year old generator or new regulator was the problem.
If the generator checks OK - I'd replace the regulator after I checked all of the wiring.
Let us know what you find.
what would i need for 24vdc, two batteries in series??
All you need is the 6-volt lantern battery. You are using the battery to drive current into the field coil of the generator and make a magnetic field. The generator is going to run in an unregulated mode just to see that it makes a voltage when it spins. It will be an unregulated voltage that varies with engine speed. A 12-volt generator can deliver about 35-volts open loop with no control of field current. A 24-volt may go way above that ... 50?