video see if i can get it here
https://www.facebook.com/ira.r.jones...0770155793483/
wobble, what pieces and parts do i need
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video see if i can get it here
https://www.facebook.com/ira.r.jones...0770155793483/
wobble, what pieces and parts do i need
Sometimes you can tell more by jacking it off the ground to get the pressure off everything and just try to move the wheels back and forth, and even up and down to check for king pin slack. You can definitely see that bellcrank shaft moving around and looks like a tie rod end is loose. I think the wobble is more likely to be the bell crank than the tie rod end though. Usually a tie rod will not do that going down the road unless you hit a bump, then maybe.
this
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steerin...3b-5-m38-m38a1
or this alone?
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steerin...3b-5-m38-m38a1
or both, agree on the tire rod end
I would go with both. The bell crank repair kit will take out any slop for where the bell crank mounts to the frame cross member. This is an often overlooked piece of the steering puzzle because it is often overlooked. The pin will usually have deep grooves worn into it from a lack of grease. The bell crank itself would be a good replacement just because if you have any slop on the drag link end (the ball) is from lack of grease as well. The tie rod, if you have slop there would be the next step.
Since am going to repair the think am going to redo the tie rod ends also new bell crank and then kit and four tie rod ends
That would be the safe plan. If not you will be just chasing your tail fixing one item at a time. Take measurements of the tie rods in a neutral position, (tie rod ends close to centered in both ends) before you bust them apart so you know where your alignment should be. Transfer the measurements to the new assemblies then you should be darn near perfect afterwards. You might still want to take toe measurements on the tires before and after to verify that the alignment is still true.
Ira, how's that plan going?
T GOT INTERRUPTED BY PNEUMONIA..
last Monday did not feel well, son walked in and clled 911 breathing hard. had high fever and pneumonia. off to navy hosp for five days, feel better now and am at home but not ready to tackle much of anything now
It’s good to see ya back in circulation Ira!!!
Take time and get plenty of rest and you’ll be fine, my Bride has had numerous runs of pneumonia and it’s all about resting.
Glad to hear your okay and can’t wait for some of your Wisdom on this forum!!!
Holy crap! Stay down man, the M38A1 will be just fine.
Glad you are feeling better. Get some rest and keep in touch. This place isn't the same without you!
sorry guys, but it really kicked me on the ***. hard.. trying to get my head and *** on the same wavelength now
No need in apologizing. The crud is a hard thing to kick, but you'll be back in no time at all. Take care of yourself, and if you need anything, we'll be here for you.
Old guys are kind of like old jeeps. Things wear out and take time to fix.
Did not know that there was a viral pneumonia, but i seem to have it, big time
Half of my people have been out with some form of the crud. If they catch it early, they are down for a couple of days, but the others have been suffering through for a couple of weeks. No fun at all. After getting the Saudi Sand Sickness 12 years ago, and darn near dying from it, I stay in a regiment of orange juice, Airborne multivitamins, Claritin allergy pill, and Jim Beam. Seems to work well, or at least I don't hardly ever get sick.
GOT A WHOLE NEW FRONT END IN PIECES AND PARTS,,,,,
Got to get feeling better then time to wrench
Gonna be cold under that Jeep!
Looking for a comment. About gear lube and its flow from trans to xfer case?? Can not find it, and re educate me on over filling and what happens, took bottom plate off and re gasket ed it damn ting better not leak
The 18 transfer case has a "balancing" lube system. The transmission gear case has a lube hole shared with the transfer case. The level in the transfer case is lower than the level in the transmission. As the transfer case gears rotate, they lift the lube up to the shared lube passage in the transmission. This sort of refills the transmission case. When the transfer case gears stop rotating, the lube drains back from the transmission to the transfer case. So if you drive it and it losses lube from the transfer case, the trans will keep filling it. The transfer will steal a lot of lube from the trans and vice versa if things are leaking. It is a good idea to keep an eye on both levels.
Overfilling causes the oil to foam up, break down and overheat. When there is to much of it, it gets in its own way so to speak. All the turbulence aerates it and it gets hot. The air bubbles can get between the bearing surfaces and score. Usually it desperately finds a way to start leaking out. In the T90 trans it starts to come out the shift tower. On the Dana 18 it can come out the vent cap.
We're glad you're feeling better.
So back to the transmission and transfer case. Do you add the oil in one place and check it in one place? There is a plug up on the side of the transmission I can see. Mine is a 3 speed. The manual shows two No. 8's for checking the grease then at the bottom it says they are separate for the 4 speed. Which place do I need to check mine or are they both the same?
Since it was explained to me that the flow of lube from trans to xfer is really quite low, my plan is to fill the xfer first then the transmission only to whey i can feel lube on finger at fill hole
Basically, you fill each one till it just drips out. If you overfill the trans it will spill into the transfer case. If you then pull the fill plug from the transfer case, it would spill out until the transfer-case and the transmission balanced out so to speak.
So the transfer-case lube is slightly lower than the transmission and the transmission will spill into the transfer-case when overfilled. The transfer-case constantly dumps lube into the transmission. It drains back through the hole into the transfer-case. If you fill them each up individually until the lube just weeps out, then take it out for a run, the transfer-case will be slightly overfilled, if you were to pull the fill plug (Don't pull the plug this is the correct condition). It's a unique way to keep the lube in circulation.
OK, I think I got it. This setup is a little unusual.
$^&*(((*&*^&^%$#@#$$^*()&* radiator
while trying to get the crossbar bolt that holds the bell crank together i managed to whack a already fragile radiator. Now not a leak but a drain the whole damn thing in a hour leak. Can not see but probably messed the petcock valve on bottom, what the hell pulling it tomorrow and biting the bullet whatever it takes to make it hold coolant and do its damn job,,, even to spending 500.00 on a new one
boogers
Pelago if you can get the one I have to work out of a (52 M38) I’ll give it to ya.
Sorry Buddy if it wasn’t for bad luck you wouldn’t have any:(:(
Oh man! Of all the things. If its just the petcock, that might be an easy fix.
I think there was prior discussion about that radiator on this thread. Isn't it unique to the M38A1? I thought gmwillys said something about it hooks to the engine so it can be R&R'd as a unit motor and all. Maybe a CJ3B radiator can be made to work if it's more than an easy fix.
Your right bmorgil, gm did say it was unique to the m38a1 after going back through the comments but like you said if it’s just the petcock it may be an easy/cheap fix!!!!
Hopefully it is.
THIS ONE IS AVAILABLE AND PRICE IS GOOD BUT WAY TO WIDE, DIMENSIONS JUST DONT WORK AND THE WING IS REVERSED OR THE INLET AND OUTLET ON WRONG SIDE, BUT THOSE MAYBE CAN BE CORRECTED, HAVE TO CALL THEM. SENT THEM TWO OF THEIR OWN INQUIRE SYSTEMS,,, EVEN SENT PHOTO NEVER GOT A REPLY? CURIOUS
WILL KNOW A LOT MORE WHEN THE BUGGER OUT OF MAGOO AND ON THE FLOOR??
https://www.championradiators.com/Wi...ator-1951-1953
I like these guy's Ira. Give them some time, I think they can get you going if you need a new one.
I’m with bmorgil Ira, you tell them what you need and they’ll get it or make it.
Their CS is the Best and they go out of their way to help ya!!!
the link had dimensions on it and i took those outside and matched to the actual radiator in the jeep. way way too wide, could i finagle it in, maybe. and everything is backwards, the entire system designed to come out as a power plant removal includes radiator when lifted out
that new radiator is 600.00 us dollars from kaiser
Attachment 5480 Attachment 5481 https://www.championradiators.com/Wi...ator-1951-1953
a the bottom of the front grill assembly there is a bolt at the bottom center that goes thru frame, mine has a bolt (the top is a ring) that came with the jeep, just took it off and got to wondering what in the hell was the ring for??
Attachment 5482
its out and i removed the shroud, got some water in it and looking for leaks PUT NEW ONE IN CATALOG AND MINE
Attachment 5483