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HAVE COMPLETELY RAN OUT OF BUSY WORK ON THE FRAME AND ENGINE. JUST WAITING FOR PARTS, FUEL PUMP, MASTER CYLINDER AND 24VDC CONNECTOR TO DISTRIBUTOR. DO HAVE A QUESTION
fuel from fuel pump to carb, flex hose or steel pipe, probably can use a piece of hose with connectors but photos are all of steel? BUT I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO BEND STEEL PIPE WITHOUT GORPING IT UP. MAKE SOME KIND OF JIG?? LIKE CONDUIT SOME KIND OF BENDER? AND THEN I HAVE TO GET A FLARE KIT TO FLARE THE ENDS, NEVER DONE THAT EITHER, DOES NOT LOOK ALL THAT DIFFICULT, BUT FLARE KIT TOOLS AINT CHEAP AT LEAST WHAT I HAVE SEEN...................
SUCH IS LIFE??
IN CASE ANYONE IS WONDERING, AM NOT YELLING AS THE COMPUTER PEOPLE SAY BUT MY TIRED *** EYES NEED THIS BIG PRINT TO SEE WHAT IN THE HELL I AM WRITING
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Great, got a link to a tube bender waiting on moderator approval. I have a smaller lever type bender that does 3 different diameter tubes. One like it should work well for you.
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Go to the Harbor Freight web page and search for “3755”. That’s the item number for one similar to what I use.
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I concur with 51 CJ3 on the tubing bender. I have one similar to that one shown, and it does work well for tight radius work. An old wire coat hanger or filler rod works well to form a template to work out the routing. A lot easier to bend up a filler rod, then translate it to the tubing, than just eyeballing the tube on how you need it bent.
The harbor freight link for the bender;
https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html
A cheap flare kit;
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piec...-kit-5969.html
Usually the local auto parts house has a loan a tool program that may have a flaring kit that you can use. Auto Zone claims to have a free loan program, just open the case to ensure all the pieces are there. Flaring is pretty simple when you get down to it. Just remember to put the threaded connector on the correct way before you flare the tube.
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wow, pretty cheap too... what size tubing, have not bought this stuff in over 50 yrs, but think that i will like steel tubing better than rubber hose, and got a ton of tubing to get and bend for all the other stuff on the vent line. cool. got a harbor freight place a few miles away. and called Mike at Kaiser, my fuel pump time limit of what they told me was yesterday they have had it 4 wks now..................anxious. found some busy work, putting headlight framework in the front grill, painted the inside of the "light pocket" with olive so i can start to assemble the thingAttachment 2294
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Going from memory, I believe it is 5/16" fuel line from the tank to a rubber fuel hose, before going to the fuel pump. 1/4" from the fuel pump to the carb. One of the local auto parts houses has brake lines that are already coated in an olive colored coating. They look good after they are installed. Looks like they belong. NAPA will be your best source for any special fittings and adapters, if needed.
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Other thoughts.
When you bend tubing, if you can work a couple of coat hangers around the bend to support the bend, it will reduce the chance of kinking something.
Make sure fittings are English inches, not metric.
Get Auto Zone veteran discount - it pays most sales taxes.
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Fitting oil, vacuum and fuel lines can be an exasperating job, but if it gets done well it really makes a difference between a Jeep that runs and one that looks really good.
There are places where we decided that splicing a line was a lot easier that trying to run one single line from point A to point B. In some places we used flared splices and in others we sleeved and soldered tubing together.
The coiled tubing to the bottom of the oil filter wasn't a good idea at all. Get the flex hose from Mike and save yourself a messy clean-up job.
And, even if they look good - be very wary of old lines. The flares are work hardened and brittle and after a couple of months they tend to split out and start seeping. You might try annealing them - but new lines are probably worth the trouble of working them into place.
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THE WORK CONTINUES... Got my master cylinder yesterday, and the 24vdc connector to the distributor. Brake lines complete now, put some brake fluid in and let gravity do most of the work, master cylinder higher than any of the individual cylinders. put the plug on the dist, connected it to ignition switch and 24vdc at the distributor