Awhhh, man. They're not "just dogs...". Sorry about that.
Printable View
Awhhh, man. They're not "just dogs...". Sorry about that.
My deepest condolences Ira.
losing Magoo has just taken the wind out of my sail.... it will pass, but guys am not ashamed to tell you i cried and cried for him, and got mad at him for sneaking out. it just hurts, since i am alone now he was my best friend, my confident and protector, i suffered sometimes with ptsd, and would be off in a different time and world, he would not let anyone get close to me, nor would he leave, he would sit touching me, sometimes adtually getting into my lap until it passed
From all of us who have followed your story, we understand your loss. Magoo went through the hurricane with you. He was your PTSD support as well as a companion. You cried for him, you got mad at him. Just don't start blaming yourself (that's another stage of grief).
Take a couple of days and go fishing to get yourself off the property.
I suggest that the M38 gets a little nickname tagged on a rear panel; "Max Magoo".
maybe, and am looking for another pup, can never replace magoo, but got room in heart for another
name the 38 Max Magoo, not a bad idea
one of these guys is going to be mine
Attachment 4302
Yellow Labs? - obviously not Black.
Take the runt - that's the one that's had to work the hardest.
I second the notion of the runt. May 38 Max Magoo fulfill the part that his predecessor left behind.
Dogs are the most loyal critter that one can be blessed with. They hold the keys to your soul, and protectors of your heart.
We have two dogs that I hold near and dear. My long suffering Misses found the Shepard for me, for a birthday present. The other was a flea market free puppy that was the runt of the litter. Both are great, loyal pups with totally different personalities. The picture of the Shepard was taken on a day last winter where she wasn't feeling good at all. I carried her into the garage, and sat with her until she perked up. By the next morning, she was ready to patrol the perimeter again. That was a great relief to me.
thank yolu for sharing your pooches, am doing my best to cope, dogs are with us for such a short time, i had Moxie Magoo for 9 years and he was abruptley taken from me, and i have been around death for a long time, but this really got to me, hewas such a companion, and he was my best friend. truly he was. am now waiting for a new pup, put a deposit on a lab puppy, they were born on easter sunday the day before magoo was killed. the stark reality is he is gone, he is now back in his yard with all of his toys.
am trying to get back into my jeep, and i will survive this, and will cry when i lose another one, guess that is my nature. Dogs are not pets, nor something you own, they are not property, They are truly mans best friend, God put them here for a reason, and he brought such joy to me, i live alone and he was all i had. and am anxiously waiting for new pup. looking forward to bonding with him and hopefully a new best friend. Have had labs all of my life and cried each time i lost one. When i got back from my first tour in RVN i had a lab named Nuba, she got sick, very sick but she waited til her daddy came home, when she greeted me at the door she was like a puppy again, whining crying, tail going wild licking and kissing the way dogs do, I went to bwd that night, and she got into her usual place and died in her sleep that night, peacefully that was long long ago, but still love her as much as i did anyof them and loved Moxie magoo, and always will
thanksAttachment 4312
okay the m38a1.....
sdudying the chematic hard and doing aligator clip wiring tests the headlights work, but when i donfigure thru the dimmer swtictch nothing?? how in the hell does the light get ground 17 powesrt all the lights, and goes to lamp in dash to tell you hi beam, but where in the hell is the ground
rear light in proper configuration
Attachment 4308Attachment 4309Attachment 4310Attachment 4311
Head lights get their ground from wire #91.
#16 is power from light switch on dash to dimmer switch.
#17 is High Beam, goes to lamp on dash and headlights.
#18 is Low Beam.
#91 is ground for headlights. It comes out through the grommet on the headlight bucket and grounds to a lug on the back of the headlight bucket. It looks like a loose piece of wire that is not part of the harness and it could have wandered off sometime or another.
There is a picture showing wire # 91 in TM9-8014, Page 206, Figure 104.
My first wife and I had a big white Persian cat (yeah, a cat) that we inherited from a daughter who brought him back from college. (Daughters have brought back a lot worse...). He became my cat - for example he would climb ladders and "help" me clean gutters. After I lost my wife, he was my foot warmer at night. I had to put him down and I realized that a lot of the grief I spent on him had been grief I had penned up from losing my wife. There will never be another Great White Pooh Cat...
#91 is ground for headlights. It comes out through the grommet on the headlight bucket and grounds to a lug on the back of the headlight bucket. It looks like a loose piece of wire that is not part of the harness and it could have wandered off sometime or another.
it wandered
Great White Pooh Cat...
i know, there will never be another moxie magoo, and i have to HAVE TO not try to make the new pup him
dont know whether or not this is true, but have been told that grief will manifest itself in different ways, I lost my middle son a few years ago due to a tragic auto accident and he was in fact at fault, lost my wife, and out of my platoon that landed only three of us left alive, when i lost magoo, i sort of really lost it. My daughter and three grandchildren 3000 miles away and oldest son getting a messy divorce and might lose his *** on the sale of the house....... dunno. but am actually getting back to work on the jeep. Think i might name the jeep Magoo
A. Grief will work on us in many ways. The classic "7-stages of grief" way oversimplify the process. I lost my father when I was 22 and it was almost 20 years later that I finally realized that I was still mad at him for up and dying on us and leaving us in the situation he did. Absolutely nothing rational about it. Just keep an eye open to make sure that whatever you do or decide is not grief making the decision for you.
B. "Magoo" - not a bad name for a Jeep.
C. Did the info help you figure out ground for the lights?
Greif does come out in different ways. I lost a son as a infant through his mother's carelessness. If it wasn't for work, and a war going on, it would have been a different story. You will be OK, but there will always be a hole in your heart left from the absence of your companions.
We may not be blood relatives, but we are your family here. Let us know what we can do to help. LarrBeard has your wiring diagrams listed, so that should get you were you need to be.
headlights, marker lights, dimmer switch.
two switches one supposed to be brand new
original switch, Continuity from source pin (battery voltage) to #17 good #81 good
power it up with pigtails, and ground is good, source voltage good. mechanical switch sounds like it is activating, but a meter on either output is no different no matter what positiion the dimmer switch is in there is source voltage on BOTH 17 and 81 17 also goes to indicator bulb on dash. can not work if source voltage always on 81 and 17'
continuity on cable good, double junction for 81, 17, and the market light
lights new. however when i looked at them the wires just came loose, investigation found that although the correct solder to light itself good whoever the twit was that conneced the cable might have crimped it with 2 oz pressure, had to rebuild two brand new lights. pigtail check of both good and both good for numbers on the cable they match hi/low
NEW SWITCH
source boltage to correct pin zero voltage on 17 no matter what is done to switch
voltage on 81 good and the switch turns it off but still no source voltage for hi beam???
not a good day, but at least i got to see the headlights burn
and can return the new switch after i confirm it DON'T WORK
COUPLE HOURS LATER, I REPEATED ALL STEPS... same results
however i manually pigtailed the brake light plug. good brake lights, and then i put a meter on the switch itself and got the meter where i could see the needle Bingo, pressed brakes and got it, now to get the plug on the switch itself, maybe this is something i should have done before putting the body on.. oh well
Attachment 4314
Ira:
I’ll swap projects with you. I spent the morning with the neighbor trying to figure out why his “free” Craftsman Lawn Tractor won’t crank. We got it to crank with a jumper to the solenoid, but we think there are at least two defective interlock switches. One is definitely defective now – it came out in several smaller pieces. Of course – no schematic of any kind – just a Parts List harness diagram.
I am assuming that you have the old-style dimmer switch with the Douglas connectors, not the new-style with the Packard connectors. The pictures are for other folks to know what we're talking about.
In your last post you referred to wire # 81 – I believe that was a finger swap – you meant #18.
The dimmer is a single-pole, double throw switch. Power comes into the switch via wire # 16 from the ignition switch. If I have my connector genders correct – wire # 16 will connect to the pin (male) Douglas connector.
Your meter should show continuity from the pin connector on the switch to either the flying lead (which is wire # 17 – high beam) or the socket (female connector – low beam – wire # 18) on the switch.
Wire # 17 connects to a Douglas – Y connector; one wire going to the high beam light on the instrument panel, one wire going to the high beam headlights (another Douglas – Y somewhere else).
The flying lead should never show continuity to the female connector. If it does, bad switch. If the male connector doesn’t connect to either flying lead or the female connector – bad switch.
And, to make this even more confusing, since I’ve never had one of these in my hand – I might have the genders bass-ackwards…..
I GET ZERO CONTINUITY FROM INPUT TO 17 and 17 is hi beam, that fires up the hi beam indicator on dash
do get continuity from input to 18,
when switch activated 18 drops but 17 never there
A. I GET ZERO CONTINUITY FROM INPUT TO 17 - I am assuming that you are telling me that the input (#16) to High Beam (#17) is open. If we're counting connectors properly - that says bad switch. #17 drives high beam light on instrument cluster and high beam headlights as well.
B. "... when switch activated 18 drops... ". If that means continuity - I'm thinking that's what it should be.
And - if I misunderstand and ZERO CONTINUITY means connected and "drops" means open - still a bad switch.
It's all still pointing to a bad switch ...
Is this a new switch or a used one?
when in doubt get a hammer
got a small ball peen and tapped it quite a bit and it worked, hi beam, lo beam, and marker lights work and power to the dash indicator light????
horn working as it is supposed to, and all lights working, running, brake, blackout marker, and trailer connection. one light bulb bad in front marker, but voltage there and have to order right rear light one i got just aint right, cojld paint the lense red, but naaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhh and original wiring all repaired and re conditioned (laying it out on plywood sure helped)
I'm glad to hear that all of the light stuff got straightened out.
I've made aircraft harnesses with knotted ropes and plywood - that is a good layout tool.
And, you used the universal tool to fix the dimmer switch - a bigger Hammer!
You're getting pretty close ....
Good deal. You would be surprised on how many issues we have with new out of the box wiring harnesses. Pins not fully indexed, or the wire locks are busted. Being that the harnesses are made by the lowest bidder, in a shack in either Canada or Mexico. Million dollar combat vehicles shouldn't have foreign made parts, period. But even the CAT engine is made in Brazil. Global market we are told, crap is what we get.
Hammers are the best universal tools. If a small hammer doesn't work, increase the size until it is fixed, or you feel better. It may not totally fix the problem, but you will be at a starting over point.
I'll look in the morning to see if there are replacement red lenses available.
Drove it five times around block,,, really need to put fuel filter on, carb gets gorped up with crud and i actually hit it with a hard mallet light taps and the trouble passes. will use inline glass filter. still steers like buffalo with a broom up its butt. am convinced that i need to work on the drag link, seems to be not quite right
actually got into 3rd gear, blocks not all that big... brakes need work probably individual adj and to be bled. what happens with too much brake fluid??
i have the windshield out of cj and darn if they are not identical, wonder if the kit from kaiser would give the split windshield. i measured and they are identical. side by side, can not tell them apart other than one rustier n heck and the other brand new
1. gas ank final install, pickup line and sending unit to be put in
2. wheels and rims, five tires, four rims ( guy that said he was pricing shipping disappeared)
3. steering
4. passenger seat
5. passenger side rear light
6. black out light bulb front
7 instrument cluster
8 windshield glass
9. created/make floor mats out of raptor bed liner
?? "... what happens with too much brake fluid?? ..."
In the truck you have to lay under the truck and fill the master cylinder upside down and blind. There is not even a plate in the floorboard to get to it!
When it gets full, it runs down your arm. I don't think you can overfill - it just runs over and drips .. but I've never played with an M38A1.
Did you get the High Beam light on the cluster figured out?
Did you get the High Beam light on the cluster figured out?
fixed it with a hammer
drivingAttachment 4324Attachment 4325Attachment 4326
forgot what it was like to drive with no windshield even at 30mph gotta get that done
Hitting a bumblebee in the backside is bad for you and the bee...
Ask just about any Harley rider about that.
You might need to check out the needle and seat in the carb. Might just have a little crud not allowing it to fully seat. That's when the rubber mallet fixes it.
Early CJ5 windshields are carry overs from the M38A1. They were split windshields, but a single frame. I'm not sure of the break down, and cut offs, but some were a single piece pop out, (ventilated windshield/ or bottom vent pop out). The one that I worked on was a '52, and it was a divided, fixed windshield.
I bright flashlight and a flexible funnel, and you can fill the master cylinder from the engine compartment. The access cover can help you get the plug off, but to see how much you are putting in vs. how much is overfilling is a guess. Plus it isn't fun trying to get your head back out from under the steering column and wheel.
Sounds like your camber is off on your front end. That typically is a good culprit for tough steering.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/tech-gu...tandards-m38a1
the split windshield on one i have is a rubber gasket type split not steel??, think the kit for glass (two pieces) should work
I haven't had time to verify, but I am fairly certain the glass kit will work. I may be all wet, but the steel strip screws over the rubber seal? If I get a chance, I'll look for the answer.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/body-wi...ld-52-71-m38a1
WELL ORDERING THE KIT FOR WINDSHIELD
NEW TOPIC when running i can hear a pop at exh put hand over exh and will get a pop, not constant but lets say more than occaisonally?? run her up and nothing just a idle thing??
You might need to run through the valve adjustment on the exhaust. You might have a lazy spring that shows itself at idle, when the cam is turning slower. At higher revs, the valve closes with a little more force.
If it is running well, then leave it alone.
starting out in first gear and shifting to 2nd it has a whole lot of energy, and really can not get into 3rd til i get on a highway
Yep, that's the nature of the beast. In low and second, you have a fantastically low total gear ratio. The engine torque peak is at about 2200 - 2400 RPM, and with those low gears, it doesn't take long to get to the top of the curve. You will find that, in third gear, the happy spot is going to be about 45 MPH. Below that, it wants go go. Above that - it starts to protest a bit and it lugs rather than leaps.
With just a little dragging the clutch it also is pretty forgiving when you turn a corner and don't want to downshift to second from high. There is a lot of low-end torque.
You have commented several times about how the M38 drives like herding a Buffalo. I'd suggest taking it to a front-end shop for a complete alignment once you get enough of it together to make the trip. Those folks know all about caster, camber, toe-in and all that stuff. As usual, find a shop with an old guy who understands the process, not just some young person who knows how to punch the buttons on the computer.
A Ford 300 I6 engine all sound like hell when idling, but they could pull their weight plus once wound up. You'll be alright.
As far as an alignment, there aren't too many kids out there that have a clue about king pins. With Dodge still running straight axles on their 4X4 trucks, There should be someone who knows what they are looking at. I can get pretty darn close using a tape measure and a magnetic level. We use to align semi trucks and trailers using this method until a fancy laser set up was purchased.
have visited three alignment shops and two said they would not be able to do it, the third said "not a problem at all i have two guys that are old school, get your good tires on it and bring it in" three hundred a wheel..............................at least so far
Got more pieces and parts by ups yesterday,,, right rear light, and enough to finish fuel tank install pick up and gaskets