It will not be too hard to section in new metal on the windshield frame. The hinges can be fabricated as well. I'll look around and see if some of the other sources I use has any at a cheaper price. Do you have the glass for the windshield?
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It will not be too hard to section in new metal on the windshield frame. The hinges can be fabricated as well. I'll look around and see if some of the other sources I use has any at a cheaper price. Do you have the glass for the windshield?
"Do you have the glass for the windshield? " more or less, kinda rough, wonder what would happen take them go a glass cutter/supply house?
I have found some windhields on ebay, and they claim they are for the m38a1, but are they? or are they for the cj? and will they allow for split windshield?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202321520341
The windshield for the A1 and the early CJ are the same. The first A1 windshields through '55 CJ had a two piece windshield that would pop out like the early Willys. Those frames are hard to come by. The glass can be cut by your local glass cutters. I don't think that there is any curvature to the glass, so it won't be a problem..... I have been wrong before. I thought my wagon windshield was flat, until I pulled it out.
Attachment 3834Attachment 3835
damn damn. double damn. I was so carefull welding the floor section in, i checked the one hull that still had rusted tailgate section in and measured measured, checked, measured then welded the entire floor section to the rear wheel wells. putting the new tailgate section in i find that the four braces on the inside of the tailgate just do not fit they are 1" too high, damn thing just does not fit. but have to use it.
only solution is to grind down the welds, remove then along the entire floor section that meets new tail section and leave it loose and put in tail section to have it meet both sides and the floor..............................can only say damn, (well can say a whole lot more but all that would come out are @%$#X#$%^&*^%#@@!. if you know what i mean)
Measure the length of the four braces and compare them to the ones on the rusted gate. Make sure that the new braces aren't an inch too short. You don't want to cut your floor loose, then later find out that the floor slopes to the front trying to match the short braces. If the braces check out to be the correct length, then check to make sure your floor is level and square to the sides. I use several angle finders when putting my projects together. The angle finders have a magnetic base that will mount directly on the metal. I would place one on top of the wheel house, then one on the floor panel. When they both read the same, then you are spot on. This will help you if your body isn't exactly level. I have six of these, and I like to run them going fore and aft, port and starboard. They will let you know if you are getting out of plumb in a hurry. In the picture, I have two on top of the windshield base/ cowl to let me know when the cowl was in the correct position to install the braces to keep everything in position, in order to mount the driver's side floor panel. There was two more that were on the verticle surface of the dash panel to ensure that the cowl was correct on 4 plains.
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...q=angle+finder
" ... I use several angle finders ... "
Angle finders are one of those tools that you think you don't need but once you have one or two or several - you find yourself using them in places you'd never suspect.
You can even show the wife that the picture really IS level - as if 0-degrees up and down really would convince her.
I have a couple of Starrett angle finders from back when I was a single guy buying great tools. I have compared the $4 finders to the higher dollar finders, and the only thing that isn't the same quality is the glue that secures the magnet. No big deal, gorilla glue fixed that.
If I let the long suffering Misses hang a picture, there would be a hammer head size hole in the drywall, then the picture would still be crooked. I fix pictures for being crooked at the monster in law's house, whenever I go over there.
Checking in on you to see how things are going?
Am so involved in this damn tailgate section, going so so so slow cuz only want to do this once. But am making progress. But have no hole for trailer hook up, hope i can find a right size metal hold cutter
This thread should get you all the hole dimensions for your end gate. Save the last picture, then you can blow it up enough to see.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...596&highlight=
You'd been too quiet, too long. It's like the kids - if we don't hear from you we get worried.
Yeah, go slow and do it once.
When it first came in a friend looked at it and said, hell one afternoon tops.......................
yeah right, but it is going in, when trying to line up everything you get one corner or side right and then the other corner is out, and vice versa, so decided to start in the middle of the deck where it joins the tail section, there is a curved section that the floor sits on and that is where i started and slowly moving outboard and it seems to be working
Attachment 3915
Looks good! It takes a bit of ironing out, but it will work out fine.
In the picture, I see you found yourself a fuel tank? Or is that one of the originals that is too far gone?
That looks like a new tank GM!!!!
That Looks Great Pelago !!!!!!!! You are doing a Great Job!!
It wont be long until your parade worthy Buddy!!!
I believe you are right TJones, it does look pretty new!! He might just make Memorial day 2019.
the tank???? it just showed up, got this box and there was a tank inside of it, but i did not order one and the label was screwed up, dont even know where it came from, label could not be read only my address and no packing list?????????????????
I'll be damned. Must have been the fuel tank fairy? I'm still looking for a box suitable for putting your shovel in.
WHILE I HAD BODY ON ITS SIDE FOUND SEVERAL RUSTY AREAS THAT I HAD MISSED, AND THEY WERE ALL PREDOMINATELY AROUND THE BRACE AND UNDER THE SEAT BRACKET.
Removed seat bracket and cut out the rusty bad areas and welded in a patch from inside with new steel. then from other side welded in "hole fills" had to repeat process because of "pockets or voids" but after three sessions and grinding each session to flat was able to achieve smooth unbroken section. since a patch was welded on all four sides and filled from other side, feel that water would be near impossible to get in there, and will be undercoating with same stuff used in truck beds, re attached seat bracket.
GETTING CLOSER
It seems to you that this is a never ending process. Every time you turn around, you'll find something that doesn't fit your liking, but you are getting there. Each step gets you closer to being parade ready.
ALL THE STUFF THAT NEEDED WELDED IS DONE (AT LEAST I BELIEVE SO), FLOORS, TOOL BOXES, BRACES, BRACKETS, TAIL SECTION.
Body on its side and starting to tape it to shoot the undercoat, where there is exposed threads for bolts putting a bolt in to keep threads clear, but taping undercarriage off now
Looks Great Pelago, you are making a lot of head way in the last couple weeks and its coming together pretty Sweet.
You are going to have, according to Dave Kindig a "Bitchin Ride" when you have her all finished up for the Memorial Day parade...............
Even though you were apprehensive about tackling the metal work, you have got it licked. You didn't even need more than advice from us. I for one am very proud of your progress in such a short time! Now I need to get off my Duff and get that shovel heading your way, so it can be painted when the body is.
gonna need a big ironing board, lotsa wrinkles, but it is what it is, give it more character, but it will at least have all the fenders and look (great from distance), but who is to say, can always take selected areas to a real body shop and say "MAKE IT LOOK PRETTY"
Get the wrinkles warm, then quench with a ice water soaked rag. That should shrink some of the waves. Depending on the depth of the valley and peak, will determine the amount of heat needed. Usually a good heat gun can get your panel fairly flat. If it is really distorted, then you may want to look at a shrinking disk, like Tjones wrote about. It will be alright to put a skin coat of body filler to level everything out perfectly smooth.
Attachment 3951
UNDERCOAT TOMORROW, same stuff used to coat truck beds..... black
RAINING OUT!!!, Damn, wont take long to shoot this thing with the gun that i have, but am uncomfortable in doing it with active rain, got heater going in garage to keep metal warm and to avoid condensation, but just waiting...
Rain is in the forecast here till next Saturday. Monday through Thursday we are projected to get 8" to 12". All this is heading your way. If you can get it done today or tomorrow, you should be golden. Keep it warm for the first 12 hours after shooting.
Attachment 3953
RAIN CEASED, RADAR SAID IT WAS GONE, BUT CLOUDY, ROOM TEMP 75DEGREES HUNMIDITY 50% SHOT IT, Sid have horrible trouble with first bottle and think that it sat on shelf too long, even with thiner all it did was come out in gobs, said damn this aint working, next bottle thinned it with some acetone and shook the piss out of it and then hardener, it actually sprayed a liquid, shot it all but missing one bottle probably means when it is supported ready to go on will have to get under it and touch it up with a throwaway brush, but when in the heck to you pull off the tap??? doesnt say anywhere
garage door shut heat back on and keeping it low overnight, both fenders done also, and was looking at gas tank and said whsat the hell shot the very bottom also
wow temp is sure droppin a hour ago it was 58 now it is 45 heat back on in garage and i pulled tape off firewall area, no problem, wind shifted to NE and that tells me that front is thru (have to be a old sailor to know that crap) let her sit all night happy so far
now it is 5pm that is 1700 for you other guys,, and temp now 41... wow dropping fast
It looks like your making Great progress Pelago, it looks good considering the weather your contending with. The undercoating should make it last a long time, and they say it helps with the road noise a little as well.
Makes me want to get back to work on mine, is I need to build a fire under the Ole boy's ars that's building the motor so I can get it and the tranny stuffed in it so I can start getting it wired.
Keep up the Good work Buddy it is going to look great..
The bedliner is tricky stuff to run through a gun. It takes some tuning to get it to spray just right. You are correct, the first dose was probably on the shelf for a long time. As soon as the liner tacks up good, then you can pull your tape. You don't want it to harden up, or it will be a great to pull the tape. It was a good plan on your part to coat the bottom of the fuel tank. I've done that on my A2, several years back, and it has been fine.
Your garage is fairly well insulated, at least from the pictures. Even if the ambient temperature drops down into the 30s, the bedliner should be alright. We have R30 insulation in our garage, with no drywall (yet), and when we had overnight temps down into the twenties, it stayed comfortable with no heat on.
yeah garage is finished, 2X6 studs on 16"centers, it aint going anywhere. salt treated plate on two courses of cinder block...,
the second bottle sprayed fine and came out as a liquid, first bottle must have sit for z long time it was consistency of valoline in a big lump, thinned it and shook hell out of it but it was horrible
You should be able to warm the garage with a candle. I have one vent in the utility room attached to the garage. Opening the man door, it warms up fairly quickly. The steel takes the longest to warm.
Attachment 3955Attachment 3956Attachment 3957Attachment 3958
generally speaking am very happy with the results, yeah missed some spots and some of it looks like small pox scars in reverse, but wth it will be looking down at ground, missed some but will have serious talk with napa about bad bottle and should be able to touch up with roller or throw away brush. I wore goggles and face mask and surgical throw away gloves, got some on right wrist and it burnt it somewhat, glad i took prep and wore hooded sweatshirt with hood up,,,, as soon as this critter goes on frame i burn sweatpants and sweatshirt that i have worn for each day of this evolution....
long time back there were some photos of strap placement to balance the body with lift, damificanfindthem....
I found on mine Pelago (a CJ-3A) that the bolt holes for the windshield swivel on the side of the cowl and the brackets to hold the tailgate shut are a perfect balance to pick the tub up level on mine, but you don't have the tailgate brackets on yours. I'm not sure what you have in the rear of the M38-A1 to run a bolt through to lift her up level.