I like the looks of that. I hope mine looks as good only mine will be civilian.
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I like the looks of that. I hope mine looks as good only mine will be civilian.
The Tightsteer is to help with a worn sector shaft thrust surface. You will know if you have a problem with this with a visual inspection. First you must be sure the steering box is in the center of its travel. I put a piece of tape on the steering wheel and count the turns lock to lock, and cut it in half. The steering box itself must be in the middle. Then have someone move the steering wheel back and forth a few degrees while you look at the sector shaft right were it comes out of the box. If there is some movement in and out of the sector shaft, it can be adjusted out, but only so much (as I found out the hard way). If there is a lot of wear on the sector shaft thrust surface, the lever arm will move into and away from the box a bunch. This motion will show up as slop in the wheel. A tight steer compensates for this wear. If you don't have a lot of movement in and out of the sector shaft, you won't benefit from a Tightsteer.
did this and have no in and out movement at all, however used original shaft but new bushings, shaft had zero scoring on it, no when wheel turned i see the drag link move with slightest touch of wheel, (have maybe 3/4" of what you could call free travel, that is travel with no resistance felt at wheel) but with that (i will call if finger tip travel) trvel wheels dont move, but then again jeep not moving and stationary,,,, think maybe what i have is as good as it will ever be, steers great does not pull any way at all, heavy son of a gun but then used to power steering
all new pieces and parts, ross box rebuilt with new bushings
add on here,,,, photo of paper tags and photo of wires with new metal tag
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On the truck, we had a used steering sector and a used tube and worm. I installed a Tight Steer to take out any slack. If everything is new, you are correct - it isn't necessary.
But, I have been known to wear suspenders with a belt on occasion ...
since i do not have a rear end to speak of i have to wear them or get embarrassed when pants fall off
"But, I have been known to wear suspenders with a belt on occasion ... "
Ha ha! That is too funny! My wife reminds me of the disappearing rear end scenario all the time.
If you have the front suspension all rebuilt, the wheels balanced and the toe set, and you aren't seeing anything obviously loose, I would say it is possible the Wheel Bearings are a little loose or the King Pin pivot bearings are loose. The wheel bearings are easy enough to check. The king pin bearings are a little tougher to check. Basically the King pin bearings need to have a little load on them or they will definitely cause shimmy. This usually gets worse as mileage builds up. If it starts to bother you you can always go after it. One thing about this condition. It is activated by the road surface. Usually a bump in the road will get it started. A tap on the brakes or, another bump and it might stop.
WELL, since i spent some time on the drag link and found that it could be tightened at the ends some (they were not necessarily loose, but the end pieces could go in fairly easy with the tool). So i was able to get a full turn on both ends and then replaced cotter pins, New bushings in the bell crank, new springs, new shocks all the way around, did not replace wheel bearings, there was no wobble on either front wheel. with jeep jacked up and both tires floating could not get any wobble doing the old fashioned way of checking, grab the darn thing and try to shake it to make it wobble, could not, but did repack them. The ross box has new bushings in it and the actual worm gear is new. when suspended i could move the wheel and the t slightest touch on wheel i had drag link movement and also subtle tire movement. But when on ground with full wt of front end on tires the drag ling movement did not move the tires, tires only moved when i was past the (free travel) and hit the resistance of the tires with wt on them. rims on front are new, tires are new.
When i brought the two wrecks home i had to select which of the two frames i would use for rebuild. One of the reasons i selected the one i used was the original speedometer only had 15646 miles on it, felt that that was accurate. Reason for that was from experience i knew that the majority of these things sat in a lot for months and months and just got rained on, and they were just not driven that much in garrison. when i pulled the two tie rod ends found that they were really in pretty good shape and absolutely no indication of play that is associated with bad tie rod ends, so i used them and just replaced the dust cover.
also re checked ALL bolts on suspension, all right and tight
did the best i could on front end alignment, never did that before, when i drove it after the drag link adj i took it to 50mph on a straight stretch of road and was able to release hold on wheel and it tracked straight as a arrow on highway for over a mile. did not move, then i moved the wheel about 1" to right and the jeep went right, and same to left 1" and it moved left. shimmy now much less
included one before photo and two after
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BLACK OUT LIGHTS IN OPERATION
I never drove one of these in black out conditions, nor do i know anyone that has. Don't think i want to, feel this is a holdover from WWII when air attack was a real possibility
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Black out operations were not fun to say the least. You are correct, it was a world war II hold over, and we still implement the same type of lights today. With the night vision technology that the war fighter is utilizing today, you don't even need any lights at all, but they are still employed. What is even more fun is learning to drive through periscopes. You loose all depth perception, especially at night. Our driver's hatch has three periscopes to help see ahead and to the sides, but you only get a vague sense of awareness to where the vehicle is in relation to the road. We are mandated to run with the hatch open to 25 degrees, but when testing at night in a pouring rain storm, you can bet the hatch is closed tight.
Adjusting the drag link is fairly easy. It will definitely cause slop in the steering if it is too loose. It is there to absorb road shock. On the bell crank end, turn the screw in all the way then back it out till the first cotter key hole lines up. On the steering gear end, turn the screw in all the way then back out one full turn. Tighten to the nearest cotter key hole. This will give you the proper shock absorbent action as well as a tight steering link.
On the front end toe setting, I literally use a tape measure. I am sure you got it right. Basically you make sure the steering box is in the middle, not the steering wheel or front wheels. When you are sure the box is in the middle, Adjust the tie rods to bring the wheels straight ahead. Adjust the toe to 1/8" toe in in the front. When all is correct, the bell crank arm where the tie rods hook, will be parallel to the frame rails, with the steering box in the middle.
got some pieces and parts left over anddamifiknow where in the heck they go?? the solo one lower right corner is for the top/canvas bows but the others??and
got the axe mounted. no way gonna drill holes in drivers side with the gas tank there
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oh yeah, got a ticket for "PARTIALLY OBSCURED LICENSE PLATE" Can you believe it? went to district atty and he looked at photo evidence and threw it out. the spare tire partially covers one corner of the plate
Attachment 5310
Justice is almost served! So what did they give you for all of your time they wasted?
I SIMPLY TOLD THE DISTRICT ATTORNEY THAT I WANTED JURY TRIAL, AND WAS IN MY DRESS BLUES, WITH ALL MEDALS AND RIBBONS AND HAD THE STATE REG STATING THAT THERE WAS NO INSPECTION FOR THIS VEHICLE SINCE IT WAS OVER 25 YRS OLD, AND I WANTED MY DAY IN COURT TO WASTE EVERYONES TIME LIKE THE COP WASTED MINE
the woman actually chuckled and said, "I bet you would at that" then said give me the ticket and she wrote on it dismissed
Great! They figured out that it was best they didn't mess with you.
Without a doubt. Never underestimate a Marine on a mission.
I could see a cop stopping you to look that Jeep over and admire the good work, but that is anal if I ever saw it.
Been pulled over three times, twice for tail light not working properly, (no light on right side/rear) and seat belt. all three by young cops, they just did not seem to understand that first of all this vehicle does not need a inspection, and that the fixture on right rear is not a tail light per se but in fact a black out light. Vehicle did not come with seat belts and are not req. by NC law. When i said black out light twice they just sort of said (say what).... they had to call their supervisor and i think he set the straight, but off i went without a ticket wtice
the the yahoo pulled mo oeve for obstructed license plate
anyone ever converted 134F solid lifters to hydraulic?? and is this even possible without exotic machine shop charges?
The design of the tappets on the 134F or L wouldn't allow for any rendition of a hydraulic lifter. Hydraulic lifters requires a note to travel within, and pressurized oil supplied to the bore to transfer into the lifter to pump up the lifter to take up any lash.
gm's all over it. It could be done but the criteria of super expensive comes into play. If you could find a lifter that would fit, you would need the right length valves, a cam ground for them and a pressurized lubrication system that holds and supplies a minimum pressure to keep the lifters from collapsing at idle. Something the F and L 134's definitely cannot supply. A racing type dry sump oil system, some custom lifters and valves and some serious machine work (there are no oil passages for the lifter supply oil).
It COULD be done. It is on the outer limits of achievable however!
Did you think of this after you put the Bourbon in the coffee, Sir?
"Did you think of this after you put the Bourbon in the coffee, Sir? "
No was just idle thinking, saw so many conversions for motorcycles just wondered.. be kinda costly and with no guarantees
It would be cool that's for sure. Because of the flat head design, it would be kind of like an "Underhead Hydraulic Cam" instead of an "Overhead Cam". The valves on the L head and the exhaust valves on the F head would be running directly off the cam lobe with no valve lash to worry about. Interesting concept to say the least!
SPENT MUCH OF THE DAY DOING THINGS THAT NEEDED TO BE DONE BUT JUST WAS TOO LAZY TO DO, BUT DID THEM
TRIMMED PLATE ON TOP OF BOOT FOR SHIFT LEFER
ATTACHING CABLES TO FRAME WITH THE APPROPRIATE CLIPS
MORE METAL TAGS,(HARD TO GET SPOTS)
BUT HAVE SOME QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS.
When these things made shoe size and persons size sure must have been smaller. In fact have a issue with the brake pedal and its proximity to gas pedal, just too damn close. May have to trim some??
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cleaned up under shift boot. ground plate and painted it
Attachment 5326
got two holes in dash panel that i can not identify, seen some photos and labels but was unable to read
Attachment 5327
do i want to fit this in somewhere, be a visible link to crud from tank???
Attachment 5328
A. The lower left hole looks to be a bit out of round like someone put it in with a drill bit as an after market modification, but the top hole, with the little index hole at 12 o'clock looks a lot like a real hole (kind of like a switch tab locator.)
B. The best place for the visible crud filter would be between the tank and the suction side of the fuel pump. That way the crud never gets to the pump.
It's kind of funny to look at that. Those pedals and such look exactly like the one's I've been working on. I guess things didn't change much over the years.
If you put a filter on the suction side of the pump you have to be careful. Some pumps will not have the "power" to pull the fuel correctly through the filter. It must be a high flow low restriction filter. The one you have there looks like one that is intended for the pressure side.
Yes the pedals are close! Looks just like mine. I guess they had little feet back in the day.
A FRONT END QUESTION.
When i assembled the front end, tie rods etc I had no idea how tight to make the bolts on the ball joints. the manual does not address this it just says to put on nut and then the cotter pin, but how tight do these nuts actually need to be?
It is amazing how many things just didn't have a torque spec published. I had a hard time finding it. Based on old manuals from the model 25 axle, it is 22ft. lbs. and tighten till the closest cotter key hole lines up.
now i am confused (normal) saw this?
http://cj-2a.com/techtips/specs/torques.html
Wow you found a discussion topic here. Your question creates a few more! The early generic service manual for the Model 25 indicates 22ft lbs. and rotate the nut to the next hole. The CJ2A information you have indicates 60 ft lbs. The general torque specification from Manual for 1949 thru 1986 Jeeps shows the bell crank to tie rod at 38 to 45ft lbs, the steering rod to tie rod at 50ft lbs, and the tie rod end nut at 60ft lbs.
The CJ 2 thru 5 all use the same tie rod ends, so the same specs for all the years makes sense. They are all the same thread size so the differences in location make no sense to me. I think in the old 25 manual they are relying on at 22 it is fully seated and then additional rotation to the next hole adds a good deal of torque. But 60 is a lot. That's as much as a head stud.
I tightened them up with a good hard pull from an old arm, and rotated the nut till a cotter key hole lined up. Don't tell anyone I didn't use a torque wrench.
I only use torque wrenches on engines where it's important go have things tightened evenly. The rest is good old instinct.
what i actually wound up doing
first of all i have a old type torque wrench old school.. took it to max with old fashioned arm on socket wrench and saw that had quite a way to go for cotter pin alignment. to get pin on the right align took it to above 50 and it alingned but backed it off and put cotter pin in,,, but i checked it with torque wrench 40 or so at that time, now i also had to add a flat washer, due to the holes being actually below where the would even lock? that is what i did and that is where it stays. lot of reading and lots of different numbers, all i feel confident is that the damn ball joints are on and they aint going anywhere
It's good. The idea is to firmly seat the tie rod in the taper and lock it there.The flat washers are not unusual. I also had to use them on my CJ3 and, on a few classics. The tolerances and changes through the years no doubt. Those tie rods fit a lot of different things.
back to steering
when i move the steering wheel (only within the free motion of the wheel, was under thje jeep with someone else turning it only in the free motion travel, the drag link moves forward and back but the first ball joint moves forward and back on the ball joint can watch the arm come forwr and just roll over the ball joint here, does that mean it needs to go? not egg shaped (t least to me)
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Slack in the steering is an aggravation for sure.
If you are seeing slop on the bell crank, then I would replace it. I would also check the mount pin on the crossmember. Slop usually starts on the pin being worn first, then migrates to the bell crank.