If I were a betting man, it is outside the front of Big Daddy Don Garlits museum.
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If I were a betting man, it is outside the front of Big Daddy Don Garlits museum.
Concur with location.
Ocala FL, east side of I-75 at about FL MM 353 or so.
It's an A-7 Corsair II, the replacement for the A-4 Skyhawk. The tail livery is VA-105 (Attack Squadron 105, Gunslingers).
http://www.seaforces.org/usnair/VA/A...uadron-105.htm
We are just bottomless pits of arcane knowledge aren't we .....
Yaw know airplanes! Great place to visit.
Went to see the Swamp Rat(s), remember the A-7 out front. That's how my mind works.
LoL, know watt u mean.
going to take 4 weeks for pump rebuild
Four weeks spent now will save you head aches in the long run.
Pelago had an original G.I. issue pump all along. He returned the civilian pump that he had previously rebuilt for a refund, then sent the G.I. pump in for a refresh. The M38A1 took a special pump and spacer to clear the fording vent fitting and tube. He could have removed the fitting, but he had already routed the vent tube. I commend him for doing the job correctly, even though it pushes out the expected start date out by 4 weeks. It's funny that me personally, will strive to find date coded correct parts for the military restoration. When it comes to my own CJ2A, if it isn't too obvious, let it ride. The wagon is a whole other story. It will be a stock frame and body, but modernized with a different engine.
ANOTHER MILESTONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Really quite a insignificant thing, most of you guys would not even bat a eye at this... I CHANGED OUT A "U" JOINT!!!! on the drive shaft to rear differential,,, one of the original :U: joints was still quite tight, have to admit i had a mechanic friend actually knock out the old u joints on both drive shafts.... but now the main drive has a new u joint and also have "U" bolts to put it in..... last time i did this was 1962 on my 54 ford.... actually watched a video on utube about changing u joints, i was afraid i would dick it up 24days and counting on fuel pump
just a few things to finish up this section of restoration, then on to the body work, which is kind of extensive
Attachment 2235Attachment 2236Attachment 2237
A step forward is an achievement. A lot of time, it is a whole lot better to use a press to ease U-joints out. I still use a hammer and a section of Chrysler torsion bar, and the chain pocket on the trailer to drive out U-joints. Sometimes it works well, sometimes it takes the above tools, and a few choice words. I would much rather do older vehicle U-joints much more than newer aluminum drive shafts. Old iron holds together much better than modern crap.
I never seem to have the same tools available. I’ve beat them using punches, sockets and extensions using anything from wood blocks to a curb for support. I have also pressed them out in a vise or with a bottle jack and the vehicle weight. I thought I died and went to heaven the day I got to use an actual press.
I cheated, took both drive shafts to a trusted friend Cliffs muffler shop in swansboro, he took em out in short order...
part numbers for reference got them at advance box type auto parts, got lucky, they all fit fine and are cheaper, and i got a military discount of 10%
MOOG U JOINT #369
DORMAN U-JOINT REPAIR KIT #81008
Work smarter, not harder. There is nothing wrong with taking it to someone who has the right tools. I'm just stubborn, or cheap. The long suffering misses says I'm both.
"The long suffering misses says I'm both." i hear that from son, daughter, friends all the above, maybe that is why is survived 28 years in corps
02/12/18 both front and rear drive shafts in good and tight, another check off on the list
The only one more hard headed than me, is my daughter. Apple doesn't fall far from the tree.
a question. i have some concern over the "U" bolts. i can not put a torque wrench on the bolts and dont know what the torque is anyway. concern is that they might vibrate loose. would it be a good idea to take a punch and punch the threads right above the nut to prevent a "vibration loosening" have had old timers say this is a good way to prevent some things from loosening, and i did this on my diesel in my sailboat, the punch stops nuts from loosening by them selves but still can be removed by wrench
There is no torque speck on U-joint bolts. That is a situation where some German torque is applied... Good-N-tight. In my opinion, I would use lock tight thread locker instead of punching the nut. Another option would be to use nylock or crimp nuts. Keep in mind that the standard U-joint strap and nut are grade 10. Anything lower than that is taking a risk. If the lock washer is in good condition, it would hold the nut tight forever. If there is that much vibration in the drive line to loosen up the hardware, there is other problems to contend with. When doing your PMCS, you'll be there greasing the U-joint anyway, take a second to check the torque.
Caterpillar does not use either lock nuts, nor lock washers on any of their engines or equipment. They rely on installing flat washers face up, and proper torque. Flat washers tend to have a natural cup to them, and when torqued properly, the cup flattens out and preloads the fastener to prevent loosening. My slightly worthless fact for the day.
and i have some loc tight also.. good idea.. now here is another one
Attachment 2243 Attachment 2244
if i make a jumper from pin "C" to the distributor and connect the cable from reg to pos on starter i have effectively created a link from volt reg to dist to start engine without doing the complete wiring loom, kinda large task now and loom needs repair
Pin C should be constant power. If you jump from there to the distributor, then the engine will run. Does your M38A1 have the floor foot starter switch, or is it new enough to have a starter relay? Floor switches make life a whole lot simple when rewiring.
Speaking of rewiring, was your Jeep an original radio platform? Quick way to tell is that there is a harness run along the passenger, inside side panel, leading to the top of the tool compartment. Usually the harness is gone, but the L bracket mount remains. The reason I ask, and may be incorrect, is that the original harnesses were shielded. If so, you may have fun is reworking the harness. Not impossible, just a pain with the extra shielding added in.
have two frames and two harness's actually have both harness's and have the radio lead, and am interested in adding a radio, i have access to a HF radio of the era and just might do it, and i have the ham license also
might be kinda cool..
thought that constant power would come from there,,, will lay the harness out on a 4X8 , sheet of plywood pin it down and and lay it out as it goes in and rebuild. starter pedal, yeah but no body on it, so i added a vise grip to the starter and got leverage, works.
getting anxious to start it up, and waiting for the damn fuel pump and have to horse together a suitable vent system (less than the diagram) to start it up and then start on the plumbing nightmare for full vent..... even the bell housing has a vent lead. oh well it is what it is
The 4X8 plywood is a brilliant idea. That sure beats laying the harness out on the kitchen table. I had seen a fellow that had taken an MP3 player, and wired it into his speaker set. He had air strike call outs recorded in a loop for display purposes. The mobile ham radio would be a good deal to have set up.
When the military put the rec for the venting system, they were not messing around. Even the master cylinder fill plug had a vent line to it.
I can understand being anxious to start. You may have a lot of body work to tackle, but when the engine is running, that's a big load of problems handled. Everything after that is just time.
"but when the engine is running, that's a big load of problems handled. Everything after that is just time. " and that says a lot. the body is well, shall we say well used and a bit deteriorated..... but repair panels and a welder will do wonders
Since you have two frames, that makes it nice to ensure all your mounting points stay true. Then you don't have to worry with marring up your finished frame when cutting and welding. Tack all the floor panels in place, then you can flip the body for finishing. I had to install the driver's side floor first, because that was the worst part of the floor. Overall, there was not enough steel remaining at the start to pull the body from the frame. The cowl started to fold toward the rear when the fasteners were removed. I found that 1X1" square tubing worked well to brace the body. Using several dial angle indicators, going fore and aft/port and starboard, I was able to straighten the cowl back out to plumb. Then the stiffeners were added to keep it that way. The stiffeners were tacked on to the upper wheel wells, then bolted onto the dash mounts. A kicker was added in front of the wheel wells, going down into the rear floor riser. Tip for the day, when welding on to the original 1950's steel, do not be afraid of cranking up the welder amps high. The old steel is of a much higher quality than some of the replacement metal. When plug welding the new metal on to the original steel, focus the heat on the base metal, then when the puddle is started, loop in the new metal to fuse the two. I use a Miller 135 110v mig welder, using .035 solid wire, with argon gas. All of the replacement metal was drilled for plug welding, to replicate the original spot welds. There are hobby grade spot welders available, but the reach is limited. The spot welder needs to be able to reach both sides of the surface to make a circuit.
More pictures of the body work.
wow, i am at the rust stage, will need new passenger side floor, passenger side outside panel work, and inside brace work, new tool box new back deck and right rear inner fender repair. very impressive,
Now have a new snag. the distributor has a male receptacle for 24dc in from ignition, thats the rub, dont have the female plug to go on the wire end, dont have one and will need one
Nope. I found a picture. But this might help:
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/distrib...0-66-m38-m38a1
damn, now how couldnt i find it, thats it, thanks
If Kaiser Willys doesn't have it, you don't need it. Between them and Quarter Ton Military parts, (who carries a lot of NOS parts) I have no complaints.
cool, when i went to kaiser and had display for electrical, and distributor qued i got nothing, but when i highlighted your post description to kaiser up it came and ordered same.. thanks a lot. and on another note, (had to try it) HORN WORKS, LOUD TOO
tried about ten different combination of words for repair ends for wiring harness for m38A1 on the kaiser catalog page no such luck someone has to have them have broken and missing ends on the harness. NOT SPENDING 800.00 ON A NEW HARNESS. firm believer in repair what ya got
Here is some information and how to questions and answers. The second link loos like they have everything you need, without the $800 price tag.
http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=177991
All the parts you may ever need
https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Wiring_C.htm
dems da ones thanks
No problem Sir. I retract my earlier statement that Kaiser Willys has everything.
having a degree of success with the wiring harness, there are tags on them with numbers and of course the schematic confirms it, dont always get the tag read, too beat up, but enough are being read to enable the next ones with multimeter to identify, clean up process continues
That is the best part about military machinery. The TM was written for the average 19 year old soldier could follow. The contracts for the equipment was specked out to label everything accordingly. Our current vehicles follow the same specifications, but have forgotten to keep things simple. Now we have diesel engines that if a sensor blinks out, then the engine could shut down. Not a good plan for a combat vehicle. Then, if that wasn't enough, the motor pool doesn't do much more than change oil. They are not trained to troubleshoot the electronics. Now, if there is a break down, it puts not only the crew of the down vehicle in danger, but also the recovery crew. The mechanical diesels were much more reliable, and easy to work on.