Were did the fenders come from?
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Were did the fenders come from?
Crown is the manufacturer. I think most all of the Jeep parts suppliers (including Kaiser Willys) are selling the same fender Crown pn# 984705 & 984706. Different prices and different shipping rates but identical parts. I bought mine through Summit Racing because they offered lower price and free shipping. They're in Ohio, I'm in PA, on most occasion's it's virtually overnight shipping for free!
Had to turn around and take a photo of this the other day. Tempting new project! My wife would kill me!Attachment 10784
Yikes! That would require at least a stop.
Progress report. Body work done, front fenders mounted. Seats & roll bar just sitting there for the photo. I'll remove them and spray the entire floor & cargo area with spray in truck bedliner.
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Couple more.
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Oh man that's looking good!
Looks great!! You're doing a good work. Maybe someday mine will have floors too...
Well done Catlewis. She's coming along nicely.
Still a lot of work remaining. Beyond the spray in bedliner, I need to dive into the brake system. I bought and installed a dual master cylinder, also bought a set of pre-bent brake lines however they do not fit correctly. Seems to be some confusion each time I attempt buying brake components and in retrospect it's likely due to this being a tuxedo park model. Have not removed any of the drums yet, however I'll wager it has 10" brakes as compared to typical 65 CJ-5 would have 9". Also need to install the exhaust system. Bought a new pre-bent system and it fits nicely, just need to bolt it in permanent. My hardtop also needs work. Neither of the side windows roll up or down. What little research I've done, appears to have "hook chain regulators". Hopefully all they need is lubrication.
Sprayed everything with black primer. Next will be a series of color layers (varying shades of red) followed by wet sanding thru some of those layers to mimic a weathered appearance. Last I'll spray the entire thing with satin clear or maybe just use a rub on lindseed finish???
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Looking like brand new!
I've been experimenting with protective coats on our 2A, since it is bare metal. I've tried several items on the market recommended by the rat rod crowd, like Shark Hyde, but I believe I get better bang for the buck with the boiled linseed oil. The clears tend to turn yellow and you'll get rust staining start under the clear after a year or so, so then I end up stripping it all back down and starting over. With a paint base like what you are doing, the clear would stay as it should for years to come, since it is a paint sealer, and not a metal sealer.
Going "ALL OUT" on this one, no expense spared! Even bought a brand new set of never before used foam brushes to apply the color coats!
Sprayed the tub, & front fenders with "colonial red" while the hood, cowl, and grille still have the original paint & patina. Now, the challenge will be to make the colonial red look like hood, cowl, and grille.
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Blast it with some extreme UV, that will fade it. That thing sure turned out well Cat!
The photos make the paint look better than it is. I painted it with a sophisticated ACRSP system which stands for, Aerosol Cans of Rustoleum Spray Paint. Two 12oz cans grand total of around $12.00 from walmart.
Extreme UV? I'll have to google that, as I have no experience using it or even hearing about it previously.
I don't think its something you can get done Cat. If you could, it would be like putting it in the sun for 10 years in the desert, compressed to an hour.
You could try to use a dulling sand. You could try some varying grades of fine sandpaper or rubbing compound to "dull" it down. gmwillys is the "Patina" expert. He might have a trick.
It does look really good. I don't have a real good set of advice on the fading of the new paint to match the old. I've seen some do it on You Tube, and they made their tailgate match fairly well;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2LiQe3Wbvc
Decided to change direction. Going to attempt painting the remaining portion of the Jeep to match the tub. Based on the quality of that finished product, I'll make a decision for moving forward. If I get lucky again and it turns out decent, might consider scuffing it and buying an automotive quality satin clear to spray over the entire body. If it turns out like crap, then at least I'll have a uniform "color layering" platform to start out with for a patina paint scheme. The entire tub has gray epoxy base coat covered by one coat of black followed by the colonial red. I'll do the same layering on the hood & cowl so if we go the "patina" route, sanding thru layers will produce a consistent result anywhere on the body.
You'll have a an easier time of getting everything matched up.
Here's some photos of a rookie making a rust repair last evening. I'm not a body man however learned a lot during this project. These little pin holes show up when wire brushing old paint off, the metal is so thin only thing you can do is cut it out and weld in a new piece. Nearly identical on both sides near where the little catches for the hood latches bolt on. Must've done this type of repair 20 or more times on this project, it was a rust bucket!Attachment 10873Attachment 10874Attachment 10875Attachment 10876Attachment 10877
Well. you may consider it rookie, but you seem to have gotten a really good handle on fixing those places.
There were a lot of places on the '48 that were donated from 78 Chevys - like all of the backing plates for the bed spot welds.
That looks like an epoxy "weld-thru" primer.
Looking good Catlewis. The Epoxy primer isn't as heat affected as other primers. A drill point just touching the steel underneath is enough to secure a good surface to weld to. I use weld through primers and have had lots of success. But in a pinch, I'll use a rattle can of epoxy primer to apply a coat in between the pieces.
Thanks to the nearly 100 percent humidity over the weekend, it seems I pulled off another successful rattle can paint job on the hood. Certainly nothing compared to a real automotive type paint quality, but certainly works for how I intend using this Jeep. Still need to paint the cowl and grille. Going to temporarily install the roof & doors tonight. Planning to move the Jeep outside as I need the garage space for some emergency truck repairs. Attachment 10880Attachment 10881
Looks pretty good Cat! Your method sure does make it a lot more convenient.
Looking great!
Hauled the old hardtop inside garage last evening an removed the headliner + dome light to eradicate large mouse colony. Tried to save the headliner material however it was unsalvageable, saturated with mouse urine / stink! Pulled it all out including the nests and mixed up a spray bottle of 50/50 clorox bleach + water and sprayed the entire surface several times. Then scrubbed with soap and water. Smell seems to be gone, time to start rust repairs on the top when I get back on this project in a couple weeks. Attachment 10882Attachment 10883
Going to set the roof back on temporarily this afternoon and move the Jeep to another building while doing some work on my truck. Still need to finish the rattle can paint job on cowl and grill.
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Mice can be incredibly destructive. It looks like the top survived. The top is a super nice feature for a Jeep your going to "kick" around in!
Mice - little bas&^%$s!..
The '48 sat in an old barn for a long time and a new pole barn as well - and the mice build a fortress in the bell housing. It was packed almost as tightly as a hay bale. The smell did not go away until well after we finished bead blasting the bell housing and etch priming the sheet metal.
Top temporarily installed and moved the Jeep last evening. Hate to stop working as it seems to be getting close to a "first drive". Also a picture of why the Jeep needs to move. Gotta make some truck repairs! Attachment 10885 Attachment 10886
Yikes the truck is hurt!
I know what you mean, you just have to make yourself stop sometimes. The closer it gets the more you think, well a few hours more....
[QUOTE=bmorgil;22651]Yikes the truck is hurt!
Working on brakes. does anyone know which shoe goes towards the rear? Appears each pair has one shoe with more friction material. when I disassembled the shoe smaller amount was towards the rear? just want to make certain this is correct.
This is a great question. Somewhere we had a discussion about this.
In the Universal manual, it states, "Note: On some vehicles the lining on the forward shoe is longer than the lining on the rear shoe."
Through the years, general mechanics practice has always been to put the small shoe to the front and the long shoe to the rear. In the early 40's and 50's it was either way. Eventually the general consensuses among manufacturers was, the forward shoe received more pressure from the force of the stopping vehicle compressing the drum rearward, therefore requiring less surface area than the rear of the drum. The older thought was the extra brake material in the front of the drum will provide more stopping power because of the weight of the vehicle compressing the drum rearward. In the end now a days if you are working on drums, the small shoe goes to the front.
I personally think it makes little difference. I always put the small shoe forward because that's how I was taught.
Here it is: https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...-front-or-back
Clear as mud!
Google search regarding proper orientation of mismatched brake shoe configurations seems to indicate the small shoe should be mounted on the front while the larger one is to the rear. When I diassembled / removed the rear drum on this Jeep, the large shoe was towards the front / small towards the rear. I noticed the wear characteristics were very disproportional as the big shoe had much more friction material remaining while the small shoe is extremely thin. Which is why I questioned if the previous mechanic installed the shoes incorrectly. I'm going to reassemble with small shoe forward.
There are a few different types of drum brakes that were and are used on automobiles. Here are some. Simplex, Duplex, Uni-servo, Duo-servo, and Duo-Duplex. There are even a few other modifications of these. In general the force generated changes somewhat depending on the design. The attached illustration from Wikipedia shows how the force relates to the design. The distribution of the force is highlighted in black. So the design matters but, which shoe goes where is still up to how you want the brake to behave. If the long shoe is placed in a high force area for the design you have, the brakes will be more aggressive than if the shoes are reversed. Will you feel the difference, I don't think so. It could effect the wear. You would want the "most shoe" in the high force area for the best length of wear.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drum_brake