Hopefully you ordered it from KW. Mike doesn't care when you bought it. He will take it back. It is frustrating when you are ready to go and you think you are prepared to start, and then the parts...
Type: Posts; User: bmorgil
Hopefully you ordered it from KW. Mike doesn't care when you bought it. He will take it back. It is frustrating when you are ready to go and you think you are prepared to start, and then the parts...
That color is going to look great on that big rig!
This is interesting Wulfie... If your tub was like mine, the problem is the Bracket that bolts to the back of the block on the L134. I am not sure how the throttle works on the F134. We need...
Wulfie, you really need to tell me ahead of time that you were just doing temporary repair, not for the final fix! You are scaring the hell out of me!
The project is moving along well Wulfie!
Wulfie, you should remove the one that is loose and send it back. You need the bushings to "collapse" inward from the press fit. It needs to be tight so the reamer can cut it to a precision fit. Even...
Wulfie, are you anywhere near Corpus Christi? I know of a small one person machine and tool shop there, that will do it for you I am sure. Give Ed a call @ Roy's Machine and Fabrication (361)...
Don't you just hate rust? There are a few places that sell the stainless line in bulk if you want to fab your own. If you have a good flaring tool, stainless isn't that bad to work with. Lots of lube...
Do you have a regular Tool and Die Machine shop, not an engine machine shop near you? There is a place I have worked with in Tulsa. B T Machine in Oklahoma. 16210 Marshall St, Tulsa, OK 74116 Phone:...
Cutting and welding steering shafts is not a good idea guy's. The worm gear to shaft interface is critical.The two pieces are machined to fit together and then welded as a unit. Much stronger than a...
It takes a .875 reamer. Any machine shop or machine supply house will have them. I would suggest taking it to a machine shop. It will save you the cost of the reamer and, the reaming process can take...
Yes that would indicate a model 27. You must have a late build. The 27 really didn't show up until 1966. However as we all have found and have been told by the old timers who worked there, they put...
I cant quite tell from the pic. It should be a 25 in a 65' CJ5, it could be a 27 in a late one and ya never know what someone might have slipped in. Look for the casting numbers on the center...
On a roll now! A nice looking pile of parts. Let her watch a Mecum or a Barrett Jackson, show her what yours might bring finished. Well restored old vehicles get top dollar original, not original,...
It is way over-speced for the application. If the bearings are good it will last a long time. You must have had a tough one Jeff. Usually they come apart fairly easy.
If you have a ball joint fork that is close, you could always "open" it up a little.
The "wedge" is the way to get it done. I have an assortment of ball joint separators. I don't remember which one I use but, here is a link to the type of tool we are talking about. I don't know if...
Just an awesome parade this year! The Jeep Fest just keeps getting bigger. 70,000+ people, its been going on for two days and it is still going on today.
peeJ rolls by at the very end of the news...
It is good practice to make sure, that's for sure! I have seen well intended lubricants and sealers cause a lot of problems due to incompatibility. Vaseline is a great assembly lube. It is however...
I have always used the lube I am going to run in the transmission in a squirt can. For lube to "stick" things like the counter shaft bearings and thrust washers in place, Vaseline.
I agree gm! Very cool experience here.
You have a few options. I would first call Silv-o-Lite. They made the pistons originally long ago. They are the only current manufacturer of Willys / Continental L134 pistons. They are now owned by...
But Larry...... you did set her up with a dyno-mite sewing machine!
Don't let him fool you, Larry is surrounded. He lives in harms way. Trouble wont scare him off.
Work from the bottom up. You can remove the u-bolts, remove the centering bolt/pin from the spring pack and remove leafs on the vehicle. Remove the leafs from the shortest first, not from the middle....
Oh man... Two red beauties parked in Larry's barn! There should be room left for a little Red CJ. "And baby makes three!"
Yup talking to you CJ3eb! Keep us posted on the project.