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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1921
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    TANGO SIERRA buddy.
    I love that one LarrBeard! I am going to use it.

    I can't wait to hear how magoo runs with two new plugs. There is a story on another forum, about a guy running his 50's M38A1 up to 70 mph trying to dodge traffic! It blew up, he said she broke the crank. Sounds like when you get magoo back out you better take it easy on the old machine trying to hit top end!

  2. #1922
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    I love that one LarrBeard! I am going to use it.

    I can't wait to hear how magoo runs with two new plugs. There is a story on another forum, about a guy running his 50's M38A1 up to 70 mph trying to dodge traffic! It blew up, he said she broke the crank. Sounds like when you get magoo back out you better take it easy on the old machine trying to hit top end!
    oh yeah dont even like going fifty in open jeep

  3. #1923
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    finally got the book, now all the questions i hope can be answered
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/TM9-8015-1-...72.m2749.l2648

  4. #1924
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I do like the thoroughness of the military documents. I just sent all three of the military documents for the M38A1 to Amy. We'll see if she can put them up in the Tech area.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-12-2019 at 06:49 PM.

  5. #1925
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    A QUESTION were the insides of these blocks bead blasted, or painted? Seems that there is a patina which is not a normal casting finish, and has a sort o caterpiller color inside?

    Am actually thinking ahead about pieces and parts, valves, rings, bearings so forth. Been traditionally using Kaiser, but they seem high for a valve replacement cost suggestions to look for comparison.

    saw a valve kit that included all the pieces to install new valves, including springs and retainers for 70.00 a lot more at kaiser individually, not knocking them in as much as they have treated me great, but this rebuild will include lots of new stuff, so am shopping, lots of good prices on ebay

    was told by two shops that if one uses stainless valves such as offered by kaiser (basically 100.00 for four valves and other pieces and parts) hardened seats not needed. are hardened seats worth putting in the block for exhaust and head for intake????

    got my valve (ford flathead tool) and damn if it did not bring back memories of working on the old flatheads............... and it worked all ex valves out...

    is there a tool that i need to get to get the guides out? or leave them for the machine shop, will use this tool ONCE????

    not even going to mess with the water pump just get a new one pulley and all

    when a block and or head "dipped" and cleaned what is the process, never seen it done?
    like i said lots of question
    Last edited by pelago; 10-14-2019 at 07:00 AM.

  6. #1926
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    A QUESTION were the insides of these blocks bead blasted, or painted? Seems that there is a patina which is not a normal casting finish, and has a sort o caterpiller color inside?
    A lot of the components, blocks, axle housings and cases were coated with a reddish coating intended to seal any porosity that might be in the castings. It was a coating used extensively in the electric motor world. I think it is called Glyptal.

    Am actually thinking ahead about pieces and parts, valves, rings, bearings so forth. Been traditionally using Kaiser, but they seem high for a valve replacement cost suggestions to look for comparison.
    I think your best bet is going with a name brand component. The pistons are Silvolites from KW. I think they are the only brand you will find. Made in USA if you can find it on the Valves and Springs. This is good stuff https://beta.fme-cat.com/Application...at=Engine&ga=Y. I used KW stuff except for the Head, Valve cover and oil pan gasket. It was good quality stuff. MAHLE is also good.

    saw a valve kit that included all the pieces to install new valves, including springs and retainers for 70.00 a lot more at kaiser individually, not knocking them in as much as they have treated me great, but this rebuild will include lots of new stuff, so am shopping, lots of good prices on ebay
    Just watch the "China" and off brands.

    was told by two shops that if one uses stainless valves such as offered by kaiser (basically 100.00 for four valves and other pieces and parts) hardened seats not needed. are hardened seats worth putting in the block for exhaust and head for intake????
    It has long been established that hardened seats are needed on the exhaust seat to prevent the seat from receding into the port. The hot exhaust and the pounding from the valve causes the seat to slowly sink. To prevent this manufacturers harden the exhaust seat. I bet yours is already hardened. It was common on all hard working engines even "back in the day". Not all older engines need it but it is there on all modern unleaded motors. Most re builders like to be sure and put in hardened seats on engines without them as a precaution, because unleaded fuel can accelerate this wear on the exhaust seat.There are a lot of people going either way on this. I am old school, I would not assemble a motor without hardened exhaust seats. It certainly will not hurt. Stainless valves are a nice high quality addition to the valve train. Modern stainless valves are lighter and stronger.

    got my valve (ford flathead tool) and damn if it did not bring back memories of working on the old flatheads............... and it worked all ex valves out...

    is there a tool that i need to get to get the guides out? or leave them for the machine shop, will use this tool ONCE????
    Definitely leave the guides to the shop. I bet the block exhaust guides are fine. It probably only needs intake guides. The machine shop needs to check them before replacement.

    not even going to mess with the water pump just get a new one pulley and all
    You are a wise man!

    when a block and or head "dipped" and cleaned what is the process, never seen it done?
    like i said lots of question
    There are a few ways they do it depending on there equipment. The most common is a Tank that captures the block on a table and rotates it as it is sprayed with hot caustic solution. I have also used a "bead"type rotating machine that literally blasts it clean then shakes it out. I would ask to see the shop. A tour would be very informative I am sure. I loved working in the machine shop and, I still love returning to them!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-14-2019 at 09:11 AM.

  7. #1927
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    You're only going to do this once, and the frustration of having to redo something will far outweigh the money you saved.

    Just remember; CHinese and CHeap start the same way ....

    Go with known good stuff - even good quality spark plugs can surprise you, can't they?

  8. #1928
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Was able to find original seat cushions... Both sets 20.00

    SEAT1.jpg SEAT2.jpg SEAT3.jpg
    now to remember the
    lacing for the grommets on top and bottom

  9. #1929
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Amy just posted all three US military manuals for the M38A1 in Tech.

  10. #1930
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Good deal! Thank you for sharing.

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