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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #2031
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    Yes I think so. Here is a link to a 1960 F4-134. https://www.felpro.com/find-my-part/...=1960~Jeep~CJ3 I wasn't sure of your year. An F head is an F head however. I have had a lot of success with Fel-Pro gaskets through the years. Even though I worked for Dana and they owned and I sold Victor Gasket, there were times when the Fel-Pro was preferred. I just think it would be unusual to have a bad result with them. Whatever you do don't take a chance on any other head gasket. There is a lot of reports of bad China import stuff. I got a hold of one for my L134 and checked it out. It is a real good knock off of the Fel-Pro. A fairly cheap lamination however. I have read about failures. The China is not marked anywhere as to where it is made. If you use the Fel-Pro Engine set there is a note that the "Military Rear Main Seal is not included". I am not sure what that means. Maybe gmwillys can help out here. I am not aware of what the "Military Seal" is. If you can use the rubber seal in your block I would use it. It is preferred to the rope seal.

    I did have excellent results with the Hard Parts for the motor provided by KW. The Bearings, Rings, Pistons and Valve train parts were top notch. The pistons were Silvolite's and the rings were Hastings.
    since i got the cardboard on the ground and waiting i feel that the yoke is probably cored, who makes the bushings/sleeves for these things?? not going to jump right in and pull them because w whole lot of dollars worth of lube will be lost

  2. #2032
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    They are made by National oil seal and Timken Bearing as well as some others. The prices are all over the place. I used Nationals part # 99155. https://www.amazon.com/National-Oil-.../dp/B000C5JND8 These fit the Dana models 25's 27's 30's 44's and 50's. They will save you $20 or so over a new yoke.

  3. #2033
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    coupe of dime size drops that i have no idea???

    but have strong suspicion that the yoke from transfer case to rear end is leaking pretty good, gear oil flung around it and very visible, where before i suspected the gasket on big plate what i was seeing was gear wt oil splashed uo into bottom of body and draining down by gravity nmaking it look like it came from somewhere else

    also found that the drain plug on the rear end was not all the way in (wasnt loose but had 1- 1 1/2 turn ro shut)

    still looking

  4. #2034
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    We Shall See ...

    [QUOTE=pelago;9820]we shall see said the blindman QUOTE]

    You are into the second stage of a restoration. You got Magoo to run, but it still needed a little tweaking and you are finding that some of the old pieces that you thought were OK, or you didn't know just what issues to look for, are causing some problems.

    I'm not sure everything ever goes away, but after a while we get to the place we can live with it.

    The '48 drips here and there, but I put cardboard under the drips and wipe off the splatter and live with it. Ive learned that blood and oil leaks are similar; it just takes a few drops to get noticed, but it takes a lot more than youd think to do any harm.

  5. #2035
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    i believe tht the worst one is the one yoke that comes out of xfer case, that gear oil after being spread around makes it look like other stuff leaking,,,, that is probably the one i will do first and then evaluate. and i do believe tht rear mains weeping a bit and i can live with that especially with another motor being rebuilt from ground up. few splotches on floor i can live with, did not re do whole motor, only the exh valves were done completely and it runs just to good, quiet, plenty of get up and go will do 60+ mph (not with me driving it though too damn fast) it just runs so so nice. but the one yoke leaks pretty bad.... I HAVE A NOTHER MOTOR THAT HAS FULL E BRAKE AND A YOKE ON IT.................
    and oil is relatively cheap. easier to top it off than tear it apart. but will of course do the following
    1. emergency brake
    2. fender mounted black out light
    3. back seat
    4. full set of canvas: top, side panels, doors got a good price for the whole kit and kaboodle all new, bows and all mounting hdw
    1405.00

  6. #2036
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    If you find the end yoke is worn at the T-Case, either end, it is the same repair sleeve as the pinions. National 99155. They are $19 at Rock Auto.

  7. #2037
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    "T-Case," not sure i unerstand, going out to pull the other yoke of the other transfer case and look at it, and going to try and see if i cant take a photo of the gear oil that got scattered, that would make like a whole lot of things leaking

    do the sleeves need to be pressed on?
    Last edited by pelago; 11-17-2019 at 12:18 PM.

  8. #2038
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    T-case, I was shortening transfer case. I was just saying it's the same sleeve on all the yokes.

    They can be pressed on or, tapped on. I prefer a smaller press for the control. I have done it both ways. There are some good video of installation online.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 11-17-2019 at 12:42 PM.

  9. #2039
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    90 WT GEAR OIL ALL OVER BOTTOM

    EDITED.jpg

    Now i had cleaned this pretty good with gunk and there was hardly any there and drove around block hoping to just warm it up some, but the gear oil is all over the bottom and just kinda splattered all over

    not sure how this works, what is the cap looking thing?

    rock auto.jpg

    here is the yoke that was just remove from the extra transmission and xfer case, did clean it up some, this is the one that has the e brake on it and am hoping to transfer the brake to the jeep later on I can feel grooves in it, not bad, but then again have only seen a photo of a bad one and never held one so i really can not say this is good or bad no experience with it next to it is a new one from kaiser for 49.00 so differende would be 30.00 rock auto to kaiser?

    yoke.jpg kaiser new yoke.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 11-17-2019 at 01:39 PM.

  10. #2040
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The cap is actually a driver. You put the sleeve on the yoke flange down. Then you set the cap over the sleeve and it rests on the flange of the sleeve. Then you tap the sleeve down or, press it down gently. It is literally paper thin. You can remove the flange after you install the sleeve if you clip it first. There are some good instructions online. These are from SKF but they are the same as the National. https://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eve/index.html

    From here that yoke looks pretty good! I don't really see a grove. It needs to be polished. Resist the urge to use a coarse abrasive on the seal surface. The surface is actually ground to a micro finish. To bring it back treat it like you were honing a dull knife back to shave with. Fine paper then just paper, or leather for the final polish will work well. No scratches that you can feel with your fingernail are allowed. In manufacturing, the testing of a seal surface is literally done by dragging a weighted string across the surface. The seal can handle a little bit of wear. It wont work long however if the surface is the least bit rough or, the grove is several thousandths deep. The wear sleeves cost $20.

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