They make life a whole lot easier. You can mover the chassis every which direction you want, without having to roll and steer. For Jeep work, the cheap ones work just fine. Anything heavier, I would opt for the better casters.
You have made a lot of progress from where you started.
Last edited by gmwillys; 05-02-2018 at 12:49 PM.
Yep, that is bad
Pelago,
Which body are you intending to use? In your picture of the two, the nearest one looks like it's fairly solid, as far as the front section of the toe board supports. The multi color tub in the back ground has lower rocker rot, so that tells me that the floor is soft. Just curious on my part. I was starting to figure out what you may need to get the body straightened out. Knowing that the tub will be in your next plan of attack.
GOT A GASKET SET FOR THE OIL PUMP??? The oil pump has only two gaskets,,, one under the end cap and one where the actual pump connects to the block. 2 gaskets. the kit has four and the little crush washer style gasket?? thought i would be able to bring up a diagram of the oil pump exploded, but cant find it
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/oil-pum...h-4-134-engine in reality the smaller gasket i have two of them and the other 2 are close but not identical............. feel dumb
they both have their individual issue the one body off the jeep to far left has just about no floor period, the one that is on the right has passenger floor issues tool box, right rear wheel well, and passenger side rocker . the other one has both of those and more100_0988.jpg once the engine is running as it should, and carb being rebuilt as we type here,,, have tune up parts to do, oil pump (see below) and just put in exhaust,,, (did dumb thing did not get hangers so it is bailing wire held on til i get hangers) , but it do have a exhaust. once this is done 10 days or so, then will wheel out into drive and double cover with a tarp then start with a BFH on the bodytOriginally Posted by gmwillys
BTW, SOLVED OR MAYBE JUST FIXED THE SCREWED THREADS ON CARB.
At fastenal i played with some different bolts and machine screws, found that i could go up one size 10/24, bought a bunch of em (damn they only had allen wrench heads, so now screw heads now) but came home and carefully tapped (without drilling) (EVER EVER SO SLOWLY, WITH LOTS OF REVERSE TURNS WITH TAP AND LOTS OF OIL) (holes pretty big, ) but was able to tap all of them and the carb now has black new machine screws holding the body to the rest of iT. THEY ARE ALL NOW NICE AND TIGHT AND SHOULD HOLD
The thickness of the gaskets is to set the end play on the gears. There is a procedure to measure the end play without any gasket installed. From memory, it was only a few thousands of an inch. If you have an original gasket, mich it for thickness, and pick a replacement gasket that is is the closest to the original. Too thick of a gasket, and the oil pressure would suffer.
Good deal on the carb. The larger Allen head screws will work better than the flat head screws.
DAMN!!! Glad i read that because kaiser said use both of them, not a trace of original gasket, but if i remember it was pretty darn thin, but it has been in there since it was made??? i put in the thinnest of the two, oil pressure prior to this was superb, will see
total investment including original purchase is now $5400.00 even, and that is very accurate on total cost so far ($1400.00 for original two jeeps)
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