Page 205 of 215 FirstFirst ... 105155195203204205206207 ... LastLast
Results 2,041 to 2,050 of 2147

Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #2041
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,082
    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    The cap is actually a driver. You put the sleeve on the yoke flange down. Then you set the cap over the sleeve and it rests on the flange of the sleeve. Then you tap the sleeve down or, press it down gently. It is literally paper thin. You can remove the flange after you install the sleeve if you clip it first. There are some good instructions online. These are from SKF but they are the same as the National. https://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eve/index.html

    From here that yoke looks pretty good! I don't really see a grove. It needs to be polished. Resist the urge to use a coarse abrasive on the seal surface. The surface is actually ground to a micro finish. To bring it back treat it like you were honing a dull knife back to shave with. Fine paper then just paper, or leather for the final polish will work well. No scratches that you can feel with your fingernail are allowed. In manufacturing, the testing of a seal surface is literally done by dragging a weighted string across the surface. The seal can handle a little bit of wear. It wont work long however if the surface is the least bit rough or, the grove is several thousandths deep. The wear sleeves cost $20.
    i have a polishing wheel on my stand and have fine polishing compound,, can make it shine, but with the sleeve is that really necessary? but then again can brighten up the sleeve also, but think that this is the culprit for losing gear oil, and that gear oil after being cast far and wide makes for confusing drips, there is a cross member there and it has a good dose of gear oil on the inside and drips down, that also says "CHANGE YOKE". Also have a rather inconsequential leak from rear main, couple of drops and that really does not get me excited, when putting this together i opted out of complete 134f rebuild due to passing compression test. did total exh valve job thought that was prudent in as much as one valve stuck and rusty. even learned how to lap the valves with hand tool.. This motor sure runs good now

    CAN ONLY THINK OF ONE THING THAT IS HARDER TO FIND AND THAT IS A LEAK ON A LARGE BOAT, BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT
    Last edited by pelago; 11-17-2019 at 08:08 PM.

  2. #2042
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    566
    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    CAN ONLY THINK OF ONE THING THAT IS HARDER TO FIND AND THAT IS A LEAK ON A LARGE BOAT, BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT
    You just know LarryBeard is going to have something to say about sinking boats!

    The sleeve has the best seal finish possible on it. If you use one you just need to be sure the yoke doesn't have any big protrusions, and you fill any groves or holes. The sleeve is so thin it will take on the shape of the old yoke if you don't clean it up. On the other hand if it shines up, its good to go. No sleeve required.

    Usually when you loose the yoke seal it flings the lube 360 degrees. You see it straight up on the floor board. When its coming out of one of parts that aren't rotating it drips down and into the airflow. You then find it everywhere starting behind the leak. If it is all over the floor right above the yoke, my money is on the leak is there. Typically the 18 transfer case can drip from a few spots. Big lube loss however almost always points to a seal.

    One thing to keep in mind. The 18 transfer case has a "balancing" lube system. The transmission gear case has a lube hole shared with the transfer case. The level in the transfer case is lower than the level in the transmission. As the transfer case gears rotate, they lift the lube up to the shared lube passage in the transmission. This sort of refills the transmission case. When the transfer case gears stop rotating, the lube drains back from the transmission to the transfer case. So if you drive it and it losses lube from the transfer case, the trans will keep filling it. The transmission will steal a lot of lube from the transfer case if it (the transmission) is leaking. It is a good idea to keep an eye on both levels.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 11-18-2019 at 09:18 AM.

  3. #2043
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,082
    well, it is slinging oil thats for sure
    took a closeup of the spare yoke that i have and it is somewhat pitted??, and i can feel a groove, slight but still a groove... stupid question and probably over kill, what would a seal on a new yoke be, a sacrificial surface? maybe?

    pitted.jpg

  4. #2044
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    566
    Great picture. I would put a wear sleeve on that yoke no question. Those pits will cut the new seal, in addition to creating a leak path of their own.

    On a new yoke the surface should be just right. The sleeve would be overkill. The sleeve does have the better surface finish. I don't think it is sufficiently better to warrant putting a sleeve on a new yoke however.

  5. #2045
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    1,838
    Seal savers or Speedy sleeves, (or at least that's what we called them) have saved many of crank shafts on heavy equipment over the years. They are worth every penny. A lot better then the snake oils that are supposed to soften seals to slow down leaks.

  6. #2046
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,082
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    Seal savers or Speedy sleeves, (or at least that's what we called them) have saved many of crank shafts on heavy equipment over the years. They are worth every penny. A lot better then the snake oils that are supposed to soften seals to slow down leaks.
    sounds like a plan, and should not be a monumental job, u joint out, yoke out, new seal and sleeved yoke in

  7. #2047
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,082
    seal, went to rock auto and they have a miry d of shaft seals?? which one went to corret motor size and output seal and it came up with 1/2 dozen

  8. #2048
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    566
    For a Dana 18, the National 472635 is the oil seal for both input and output. National 99155 is the repair sleeve used.

    I am not sure why they came up with so many. It is the same seal from 1941 to 1971. There was a large felt washer jammed behind the yoke between the seal and the yoke. Maybe that is what is affecting the part number? The felt was not always used. I think it was always used in military applications. It was intended to keep muck off of the yoke seal. It is for serious running in the mud. I don't use it on the rebuilds unless it is going in the mud. The felt washer can collect abrasive dirt and since it spins against the seal, it can create heat and wear. You definitely don't need it on a Parade Jeep.

  9. #2049
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,082
    I GOT A GD TICKET Going to auto parts store got stopped by a state guy and he gave me a ticket for "partially obstructed license plate" ME AND MAGOO GOING TO COURT ON THIS ONE, THERE IS NO LICENSE PLATE PLACE TO PUT ONE, SO I AM TAKING MAGOO AND MAKING THIS DAMN COP (KID) SIT IN COURT ALL DAY LONG WHILE I READ A BOOK AN TAKE OUT HEARING AID

  10. #2050
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,082
    Can someone tell me why i can not use this emergency brake on magoo, i got all this stuff, all of it (well need new shoes) but got it all, seems as if all i need is to mount the hand brake cable

    12-1-hand brake and related parts exploded.jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •