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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #2121
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    I like the looks of that. I hope mine looks as good only mine will be civilian.

  2. #2122
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    still tweaking steerimng...........
    have just a little steering wheel shimmy at 50mph+ It is not my intention to drive this guy much at that speed, but being a particular nerd about it being right have worked on it some
    now the drag link moves at the slightest touch of the wheel (at rest parked) and all have cotter pins in them at rest less than 3/4" off steering wheel turn before any resistance (tires)
    but what is next
    all seems right and tight
    and does this need to take the ross box out? https://www.kaiserwillys.com/tightst...0-71-m38-m38a1 ? and would i receive benefit from itmust be doing something correct. reduced the free play considerably, at 50mph released the wheel and it stayed right where it was for over a mile. very little shimmy now
    The Tightsteer is to help with a worn sector shaft thrust surface. You will know if you have a problem with this with a visual inspection. First you must be sure the steering box is in the center of its travel. I put a piece of tape on the steering wheel and count the turns lock to lock, and cut it in half. The steering box itself must be in the middle. Then have someone move the steering wheel back and forth a few degrees while you look at the sector shaft right were it comes out of the box. If there is some movement in and out of the sector shaft, it can be adjusted out, but only so much (as I found out the hard way). If there is a lot of wear on the sector shaft thrust surface, the lever arm will move into and away from the box a bunch. This motion will show up as slop in the wheel. A tight steer compensates for this wear. If you don't have a lot of movement in and out of the sector shaft, you won't benefit from a Tightsteer.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-07-2019 at 08:01 PM.

  3. #2123
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    the tightsteer is to help with a worn sector shaft thrust surface. You will know if you have a problem with this with a visual inspection. First you must be sure the steering box is in the center of its travel. I put a piece of tape on the steering wheel and count the turns lock to lock, and cut it in half. The steering box itself must be in the middle. Then have someone move the steering wheel back and forth a few degrees while you look at the sector shaft right were it comes out of the box. If there is some movement in and out of the sector shaft, it can be adjusted out, but only so much (as i found out the hard way). If there is a lot of wear on the sector shaft thrust surface, the lever arm will move into and away from the box a bunch. This motion will show up as slop in the wheel. A tight steer compensates for this wear. If you don't have a lot of movement in and out of the sector shaft, you won't benefit from a tightsteer.
    did this and have no in and out movement at all, however used original shaft but new bushings, shaft had zero scoring on it, no when wheel turned i see the drag link move with slightest touch of wheel, (have maybe 3/4" of what you could call free travel, that is travel with no resistance felt at wheel) but with that (i will call if finger tip travel) trvel wheels dont move, but then again jeep not moving and stationary,,,, think maybe what i have is as good as it will ever be, steers great does not pull any way at all, heavy son of a gun but then used to power steering


    all new pieces and parts, ross box rebuilt with new bushings

    add on here,,,, photo of paper tags and photo of wires with new metal tag

    paper tags.jpg metal tags.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 12-08-2019 at 12:47 PM.

  4. #2124
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    On the truck, we had a used steering sector and a used tube and worm. I installed a Tight Steer to take out any slack. If everything is new, you are correct - it isn't necessary.

    But, I have been known to wear suspenders with a belt on occasion ...

  5. #2125
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    since i do not have a rear end to speak of i have to wear them or get embarrassed when pants fall off

    "But, I have been known to wear suspenders with a belt on occasion ... "

  6. #2126
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    since i do not have a rear end to speak of i have to wear them or get embarrassed when pants fall off "
    Ha ha! That is too funny! My wife reminds me of the disappearing rear end scenario all the time.

    If you have the front suspension all rebuilt, the wheels balanced and the toe set, and you aren't seeing anything obviously loose, I would say it is possible the Wheel Bearings are a little loose or the King Pin pivot bearings are loose. The wheel bearings are easy enough to check. The king pin bearings are a little tougher to check. Basically the King pin bearings need to have a little load on them or they will definitely cause shimmy. This usually gets worse as mileage builds up. If it starts to bother you you can always go after it. One thing about this condition. It is activated by the road surface. Usually a bump in the road will get it started. A tap on the brakes or, another bump and it might stop.

  7. #2127
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    WELL, since i spent some time on the drag link and found that it could be tightened at the ends some (they were not necessarily loose, but the end pieces could go in fairly easy with the tool). So i was able to get a full turn on both ends and then replaced cotter pins, New bushings in the bell crank, new springs, new shocks all the way around, did not replace wheel bearings, there was no wobble on either front wheel. with jeep jacked up and both tires floating could not get any wobble doing the old fashioned way of checking, grab the darn thing and try to shake it to make it wobble, could not, but did repack them. The ross box has new bushings in it and the actual worm gear is new. when suspended i could move the wheel and the t slightest touch on wheel i had drag link movement and also subtle tire movement. But when on ground with full wt of front end on tires the drag ling movement did not move the tires, tires only moved when i was past the (free travel) and hit the resistance of the tires with wt on them. rims on front are new, tires are new.

    When i brought the two wrecks home i had to select which of the two frames i would use for rebuild. One of the reasons i selected the one i used was the original speedometer only had 15646 miles on it, felt that that was accurate. Reason for that was from experience i knew that the majority of these things sat in a lot for months and months and just got rained on, and they were just not driven that much in garrison. when i pulled the two tie rod ends found that they were really in pretty good shape and absolutely no indication of play that is associated with bad tie rod ends, so i used them and just replaced the dust cover.
    also re checked ALL bolts on suspension, all right and tight

    did the best i could on front end alignment, never did that before, when i drove it after the drag link adj i took it to 50mph on a straight stretch of road and was able to release hold on wheel and it tracked straight as a arrow on highway for over a mile. did not move, then i moved the wheel about 1" to right and the jeep went right, and same to left 1" and it moved left. shimmy now much less
    included one before photo and two after

    FRONT BRAKES2.jpg AFTER2.jpg100_0993.jpg

  8. #2128
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    BLACK OUT LIGHTS IN OPERATION
    I never drove one of these in black out conditions, nor do i know anyone that has. Don't think i want to, feel this is a holdover from WWII when air attack was a real possibility
    right front.jpg left front.jpg fender mount.jpg left rear.jpgright rear.jpg

  9. #2129
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    BLACK OUT LIGHTS IN OPERATION
    I never drove one of these in black out conditions, nor do i know anyone that has. Don't think i want to, feel this is a holdover from WWII when air attack was a real possibility
    right front.jpg left front.jpg fender mount.jpg left rear.jpgright rear.jpg
    The history or the reason is cool but, I'm with you on not wanting to drive it that kind of condition lol.

  10. #2130
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Black out operations were not fun to say the least. You are correct, it was a world war II hold over, and we still implement the same type of lights today. With the night vision technology that the war fighter is utilizing today, you don't even need any lights at all, but they are still employed. What is even more fun is learning to drive through periscopes. You loose all depth perception, especially at night. Our driver's hatch has three periscopes to help see ahead and to the sides, but you only get a vague sense of awareness to where the vehicle is in relation to the road. We are mandated to run with the hatch open to 25 degrees, but when testing at night in a pouring rain storm, you can bet the hatch is closed tight.

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