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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1001
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    hmmm thought i had already posted this, but seems to have screwed it up so will try again here are three photos of the *** end of the jeep, as can see it is messed up with even a bigt *** hole in the middle, and my welding skills are basically non existent, can see the gobs of chewing gum i put on the one place.... now there is a place few miles away where i believe i can get odd pieces of flat 20 guage and maybe 18 gauge steel remnants can get a 4'X8' sheet of cold rolled steel but that is a lot and just do not need that much.. but?? repair or replace ($450.00) the one photo shows the middle where for some reason someone cut a big *** hole in it and must have had the flash too close but the hole is pretty dam big




    left side.jpgmiddle.jpgright side.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 11-22-2018 at 02:09 PM.

  2. #1002
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The key to welding sheet metal is to make a series of spot welds. Start at one side, weld a spot a couple inches apart, then go to the other side and repeat. This keeps from warping the steel, and causing you headaches. When you have all your welds two inches apart, then you can spot weld in between, following the same strategy, until the weld is connected all the way around. It takes a while to complete, but it will turn out well.
    Are you using flux core wire in your mig? If so, it takes a bit more heat to lay down a good weld. When you get the copper, you can back the weld surface to help disipate the heat, and to help bridge the gap.

  3. #1003
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Actually i am not even sure how to set up the welder, which position to have current, for thick metal, for thin metal, know its all different, have a 110v welder but am so so inexperienced think i might get my neighbor to give me some classes.. NOT GOING TO GORP UP THE NEW BODY PIECES...

    On another note, this might be the most important body piece i have, as far as getting a clear title. it is the original Willys ID Tag taken right off the old right wheel well and waiting to go on the new well at the same place serial#17429 made in first year of production



    ID1.jpg

  4. #1004
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    The key to welding sheet metal is to make a series of spot welds. Start at one side, weld a spot a couple inches apart, then go to the other side and repeat. This keeps from warping the steel, and causing you headaches. When you have all your welds two inches apart, then you can spot weld in between, following the same strategy, until the weld is connected all the way around. It takes a while to complete, but it will turn out well.
    Are you using flux core wire in your mig? If so, it takes a bit more heat to lay down a good weld. When you get the copper, you can back the weld surface to help disipate the heat, and to help bridge the gap.



    yeah but would you repair the rear end section or replace it,,,, over 400 for new piece

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...ts-52-71-m38a1
    Last edited by pelago; 11-23-2018 at 10:01 AM.

  5. #1005
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Being that the "tailgate" was cut out, I would most likely pay the $400. That will cover all the rear panel, plus you will have the supports in place, and the tail light recess.

  6. #1006
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    am thinking along the same lines,,,,, big *** hole cut out of the middle 15"X15" wonder why this done, and then someone bastardized both ends with a new cutout for tail lights. and it is bend in the middle, take a ton of restoration, and lots and lots of welding, and i already have the new back deck flooring priced in,,, mine is so so thin and full of holes, jst not a repairable item. and with new rear section with braces can fit in the new two sections together as soon as i have a body on it i am to call the NC DMV inspector and then get a surety bond from insurance company and then can create a title. can get insurance that alows 1200 miles a month for a great price. boy am i glad i got that willys plate with serial number on it.....

  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    Actually i am not even sure how to set up the welder, which position to have current, for thick metal, for thin metal...
    There should be a chart on the welder or in the instructions for the welder to give good starting points. It just takes a little practice to get decent results. The first time I used a mig welder I borrowed one to build a 40 foot door out of 14 gauge material. There is a huge difference between the welds where I started and where I finished but I haven’t welded much since. I expect my next few welds will look like my first few. Adding a cheater lens to my helmet helped a lot.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  8. #1008
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 51 CJ3 View Post
    There should be a chart on the welder or in the instructions for the welder to give good starting points. It just takes a little practice to get decent results. The first time I used a mig welder I borrowed one to build a 40 foot door out of 14 gauge material. There is a huge difference between the welds where I started and where I finished but I haven’t welded much since. I expect my next few welds will look like my first few. Adding a cheater lens to my helmet helped a lot.
    yeah, the helmet and lense just do not give a picture of what i am doing, so so damn dark all i see is the arc and can not even see the work area at all and my lines go all over the place, when i think i did a good weld i look without helmet and i see that my weld line wandered all over the freakin place. i have a lot of scrap 20 gauge now and will try to practice on that some

  9. #1009
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    VIN Tag

    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post

    ...it is the original Willys ID Tag taken right off the old right wheel well and waiting to go on the new well at the same place serial#17429 made in first year of production
    99.9% of the time I prefer to put things back where they were originally, but for an original tag like that one, I don't know if I would put it in the fender well. Maybe on the fire wall or somewhere that it is well protected from any damage.

    What the hay ... upper left corner of the panel so you can show it off easily!

  10. #1010
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    99.9% of the time I prefer to put things back where they were originally, but for an original tag like that one, I don't know if I would put it in the fender well. Maybe on the fire wall or somewhere that it is well protected from any damage.

    What the hay ... upper left corner of the panel so you can show it off easily!


    that is where the ID tag is, at least says the manual, says it is visible on passenger side on the fender. measured the holes and re drilled holes is same spot for tag. as my instructor said "its in the book"

    but todays project more spot welds removed from wheel well fender. in 27 linear inches i removed 35 spot welds yuk

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