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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #491
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    It's getting hard to find, but the permatex brown bottle shellac was always a go to for sealing up the valve cover gaskets. Too often the mounting hardware is over torqued, and it deforms the cover to where it is not flat enough to seal against the gasket and block.

    Lucas additive is good stuff. I knew a lot of truck drivers and fleets that swore by it.

    Speaking of additives, I have personally tried this product, and highly recommend it first for your firearms, then for your vehicles;

    http://www.militec-1.com/

    The stuff works great on all firearms, when applied per the directions. I tested it out on my muzzleloader, and now it takes just a total of two patches to clean and seal. It does work very well in my Springfield 40 cal. as well. I have used it in air compressors and on my big block Chrysler derby cars through the years, and have been impressed with the results.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 04-11-2018 at 05:22 AM.

  2. #492
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    I don't think you were at all surprised with the smoke when it finally fired up. You had lubricated everything very well early on when you were turning the engine over to get it loosened up and that oil had to go somewhere once it started.

    You are not breaking in a new engine, so you'll not get the micro particles that come from rings seating against cylinder walls and rod and main bearings seating against crank surfaces. You're right in that the main concern is crud stuck in rings and down in oil galleries.

    I'd wait 8 -10 running hours and do an oil and filter change. We're probably being 'way too careful here - but that's what happens as we get older.

    As for the Lucas additive - in an F-134 it might be a bit of overkill. By today's standards, this is really a light duty engine that's not going to be beaten all that hard. Lucas does make oil slicker (through chemical processes I don't understand) and I wonder if 1953 design seals will hold it in or will it find places to crawl through?

    I was down at Knob Creek Kentucky (you know of the place). One of the stories was about a gentleman who had a Lewis gun that kept breaking parts. After a bit of discussions with folks, it turned out that he was lubricating with some modern super slick greases. Slicker greases made higher cyclic rate, higher rate meant much more stress and harder impacts and broken parts. Old sticky grease slowed things down and no more broken parts. The point is that on old stuff, newer and slicker isn't always better (and its a good story too).

    What temperature thermostat are you using? I find data for the F-134 that says 160 degrees and some data says 180 degrees. Colder is not necessarily easier on the engine since crud needs to get hot so it doesn't accumulate in the oil, especially on engines that don't run all day long.

    Even at 180 degrees, that little engine is relatively cold compared to modern engines. I have read that one of the reasons to run straight 30-weight oil is that the engine just doesn't get hot enough to bring 5W30 or 10W30 multi-viscosity oils up to full 30W viscosity!

    And - one of the reasons that properly restored 38's are so rare is that folks just don't want to invest the dollars in the 24-volt wiring and electrical system and the RFI shielded plugs, wires and ignition parts. Yeah, it's an investment.

    Hang in there - you have a fan club rootin' for you. And be careful.

    E8B Sends

  3. #493
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    thermostat, damn i really dont know what i put into it??? but a 180 temp not hard to obtain, will get one. there is some food for thought on the "newer slicker oil additives and the multi wt oils. think i will double gasket the side cover, with only two bolts holding the damn thing on, well who knows. would have been more comfortable with multi bolts going all the way around it, but wth this thing was designed for short life, hit the beach full high gear, kick ***, beat the hell out of it, then go get another one

  4. #494
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    LarrBeard brings up several good points in regards to the oil additives. The additives would most likely cause you headaches as far as leaks. The best would be what the book calls for, SAE 30. Tractor Supply sells SAE 30 Non detergent oil for engines that has sludge sealing all the seals.

    As far as a thermostat, if you plan on doing any parades, then the cooler thermostat would be best. If you will be mainly running down the road on nice days, then the 180 degree thermostat will do just fine.

  5. #495
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    TRACTOR SUPPLY, NEVER THOUGHT OF THAT!!!
    so damn hard to get plain old sae 30 wt went to three box stores and just could not find straight 30wt
    FOUND OUT WHY #4 EXH LEAKED, SOMEHOW THE GASKET "DISINTEGRATED???" TOOK THE MANIFOLD OFF AND IT WAS JUST LIKE A POWDER IN THERE!! Have no idea how, why, or anything else, "bad gasket??" anyway called Mike and they are warranty shipping me a new set. great folks there

  6. #496
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post

    SOMEHOW THE GASKET "DISINTEGRATED???" TOOK THE MANIFOLD OFF AND IT WAS JUST LIKE A POWDER IN THERE!!
    Sometimes the solution really is simple.

  7. #497
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    It's great that they stand behind their products. That is ponderous why the gasket would have burnt. The only thing that comes to mind is that the exhaust valve stuck open on number four, and toasted the gasket? Just a theory.

    Tractor supply has the oil in 6 quart jugs for cheap.

  8. #498
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    no, was not burnt, but turned into a grey powder?? sure had some carbon on it but it was all stringy and powdery?? defect, who knows but the other ones were fine and holding. beats me. great to hear about trucker supply, there is one around here

  9. #499
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That is odd. Must have been a defective gasket. Tractor Supply is a good source of pay by the pound grade 8 hardware, and 2 gallon jugs of 30 Wt. engine oil. I looked last night, it was a 2 gallon jug and not 6 quarts. The price is around $20.00 for the 2 gallons jug.

  10. #500
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    GONNA RIG UP A TEMP GAUGE TEMPORARILY THEN GET HER HOT AND DRAIN OIL AND REFILL WITH SAE30 FROM TRUCKERS

    HERE IS THE PLAN PHASE TWO OF ENGINE RE START
    1. new gasket set on the way, fri, sat? (with hi temp/hi tack sealer)
    2. on first (trying to stay in my budget) order carb rebuild kit and new plug wires, (military set for "groan" $260.00)
    trucker store here i come, and need to crawl under and tighten all the pan bolts to make sure they are tight
    Phase three.
    1. complete exhaust system (think it is much easier to bend over and hang exhaust rather than crawl under and look up
    2. one rim and two tires ( so can add the crappy out of size tires to the frame and roll out of garage so i can bring body in out of weather and start it off

    then not any order but rebuild steering, and put it all together, wire loom will need some ends and got to continue with that
    HEY MAYBE THERE IS A GLIMMER OF LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL, JUST MAYBE (YEAH AND THE HORN WORKS LOUD LITTLE BUGGER)

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