Page 216 of 229 FirstFirst ... 116166206214215216217218226 ... LastLast
Results 2,151 to 2,160 of 2282

Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #2151
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,143
    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    It is amazing how many things just didn't have a torque spec published. I had a hard time finding it. Based on old manuals from the model 25 axle, it is 22ft. lbs. and tighten till the closest cotter key hole lines up.
    now i am confused (normal) saw this?
    http://cj-2a.com/techtips/specs/torques.html

  2. #2152
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    785
    Wow you found a discussion topic here. Your question creates a few more! The early generic service manual for the Model 25 indicates 22ft lbs. and rotate the nut to the next hole. The CJ2A information you have indicates 60 ft lbs. The general torque specification from Manual for 1949 thru 1986 Jeeps shows the bell crank to tie rod at 38 to 45ft lbs, the steering rod to tie rod at 50ft lbs, and the tie rod end nut at 60ft lbs.

    The CJ 2 thru 5 all use the same tie rod ends, so the same specs for all the years makes sense. They are all the same thread size so the differences in location make no sense to me. I think in the old 25 manual they are relying on at 22 it is fully seated and then additional rotation to the next hole adds a good deal of torque. But 60 is a lot. That's as much as a head stud.

    I tightened them up with a good hard pull from an old arm, and rotated the nut till a cotter key hole lined up. Don't tell anyone I didn't use a torque wrench.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-18-2019 at 06:40 PM.

  3. #2153
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    153
    I only use torque wrenches on engines where it's important go have things tightened evenly. The rest is good old instinct.

  4. #2154
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,143
    Quote Originally Posted by okiemark View Post
    I only use torque wrenches on engines where it's important go have things tightened evenly. The rest is good old instinct.


    pretty much.

  5. #2155
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,143
    what i actually wound up doing
    first of all i have a old type torque wrench old school.. took it to max with old fashioned arm on socket wrench and saw that had quite a way to go for cotter pin alignment. to get pin on the right align took it to above 50 and it alingned but backed it off and put cotter pin in,,, but i checked it with torque wrench 40 or so at that time, now i also had to add a flat washer, due to the holes being actually below where the would even lock? that is what i did and that is where it stays. lot of reading and lots of different numbers, all i feel confident is that the damn ball joints are on and they aint going anywhere

  6. #2156
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    785
    It's good. The idea is to firmly seat the tie rod in the taper and lock it there.The flat washers are not unusual. I also had to use them on my CJ3 and, on a few classics. The tolerances and changes through the years no doubt. Those tie rods fit a lot of different things.

  7. #2157
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,143
    back to steering
    when i move the steering wheel (only within the free motion of the wheel, was under thje jeep with someone else turning it only in the free motion travel, the drag link moves forward and back but the first ball joint moves forward and back on the ball joint can watch the arm come forwr and just roll over the ball joint here, does that mean it needs to go? not egg shaped (t least to me)

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]5360[/ATTACHt)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #2158
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    153
    Slack in the steering is an aggravation for sure.

  9. #2159
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    easter north carolina
    Posts
    1,143
    Quote Originally Posted by okiemark View Post
    Slack in the steering is an aggravation for sure.
    going to try and make a video

  10. #2160
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    1,980
    If you are seeing slop on the bell crank, then I would replace it. I would also check the mount pin on the crossmember. Slop usually starts on the pin being worn first, then migrates to the bell crank.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •