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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #2041
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    The cap is actually a driver. You put the sleeve on the yoke flange down. Then you set the cap over the sleeve and it rests on the flange of the sleeve. Then you tap the sleeve down or, press it down gently. It is literally paper thin. You can remove the flange after you install the sleeve if you clip it first. There are some good instructions online. These are from SKF but they are the same as the National. https://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eve/index.html

    From here that yoke looks pretty good! I don't really see a grove. It needs to be polished. Resist the urge to use a coarse abrasive on the seal surface. The surface is actually ground to a micro finish. To bring it back treat it like you were honing a dull knife back to shave with. Fine paper then just paper, or leather for the final polish will work well. No scratches that you can feel with your fingernail are allowed. In manufacturing, the testing of a seal surface is literally done by dragging a weighted string across the surface. The seal can handle a little bit of wear. It wont work long however if the surface is the least bit rough or, the grove is several thousandths deep. The wear sleeves cost $20.
    i have a polishing wheel on my stand and have fine polishing compound,, can make it shine, but with the sleeve is that really necessary? but then again can brighten up the sleeve also, but think that this is the culprit for losing gear oil, and that gear oil after being cast far and wide makes for confusing drips, there is a cross member there and it has a good dose of gear oil on the inside and drips down, that also says "CHANGE YOKE". Also have a rather inconsequential leak from rear main, couple of drops and that really does not get me excited, when putting this together i opted out of complete 134f rebuild due to passing compression test. did total exh valve job thought that was prudent in as much as one valve stuck and rusty. even learned how to lap the valves with hand tool.. This motor sure runs good now

    CAN ONLY THINK OF ONE THING THAT IS HARDER TO FIND AND THAT IS A LEAK ON A LARGE BOAT, BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT
    Last edited by pelago; Yesterday at 08:08 PM.

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