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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1901
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    As far as the lug nuts/studs, that was standard practice for some brands through the mid sixties to have left hand thread on the driver's side. Some heavy trucks stayed with it until the mid eighties. The theory was that the torque of the wheel turning forward on the driver's side would loosen the lug nuts....

    To remove the lug studs, a broaching tool would help. Material from the drum is peened over the stud to prevent it from loosening up through abuse. See attached video;

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi_FrxpeSi0

    Also found this good video of the brake adjustment on a GPW.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKlIszhs-gE

  2. #1902
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    That tool will definitely help on the exhaust valve spring. I was thinking economy.

    I did not remove the peen on the studs. I used a strong receiver and a 20 ton press. It just "pops" them out. It breaks the peen in a clean small ring a bit less material than the video shows cutting out. Make no mistake, it takes every bit of the 20 ton press.

  3. #1903
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    PISTONS OUT
    damn rod bearings look great no score, no heat smooth, crank looks even better

  4. #1904
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    Excellent news!

  5. #1905
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    UPDATE PISTONS AND RODS AND CRANK by running fingers over crank can find a couple of "dimples" on rod bearing

    PISTON1.jpg PISTON2.jpgROD BEARING1.jpgROD BEARING2.jpg

  6. #1906
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    wow thought ws happy with rod bearings, mains look new, not a mark on them crank is out, block has tho have cam out and ready for machine shop[

  7. #1907
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Looks pretty good so far.

  8. #1908
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    They come in the gasket set. They run down between the main cap and the block. They seal the block to the main cap and the pan to the block and main cap. I found them to be tricky little Bast@#!%s to get in. I did figure out a successful way.
    am sort of thinking ahead, but when you put the rubber plugs in did you do it with the main bearing cap on and fit then down the hole or lay it in the bearing cap when it was put on?

    and it is sure too bad that the motor i have in magoo now just has no guts....... sure runs sweet idles great, my son says it sounds like a singer sewing machine but just wont go

    machine shop
    www.gofastmotors.com
    Last edited by pelago; 10-09-2019 at 08:04 AM.

  9. #1909
    Senior Member bmorgil's Avatar
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    I have attached the procedure as outlined in the General Service manual for your F head. They direct you to install the mains torque the caps check the end play and then as the last, install the Rubber Packing's "Plugs".

    The plugs are supposed to be a prefigured correct length. You are to insert them into the assembled cap and block, push them down, and not trim them. They are supposed to stick up about 1/4" once they are pushed in all the way down.

    I had two problems. I could only push them down about 3/4 of the way down. I tried oil and that did not help. I then removed the main cap and inserted the plugs ahead of time. I used black silicone very lightly on all cap to block surfaces. I used a small amount on the plugs to make them slide a little easier. I then fit everything together at once. Pushing the cap seals and all into place. I then had about 3/8" of plug sticking up. I took it all apart again and measured the plugs. About 1/8" two long and probably a little fatter than the originals. I reassembled using the same process of inserting everything together, and trimmed the rubber to 1/4". I applied 5 lbs of air pressure to the assembled motor to insure there were no leaks. The rear cap, pan and main all sealed up nicely, 150 miles now and the assembly is leak free!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-09-2019 at 08:31 AM.

  10. #1910
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    I have attached the procedure as outlined in the General Service manual for your F head. They direct you to install the mains torque the caps check the end play and then as the last, install the Rubber Packing's "Plugs".

    The plugs are supposed to be a prefigured correct length. You are to insert them into the assembled cap and block, push them down, and not trim them. They are supposed to stick up about 1/4" once they are pushed in all the way down.

    I had two problems. I could only push them down about 3/4 of the way down. I tried oil and that did not help. I then removed the main cap and inserted the plugs ahead of time. I used black silicone very lightly on all cap to block surfaces. I used a small amount on the plugs to make them slide a little easier. I then fit everything together at once. Pushing the cap seals and all into place. I then had about 3/8" of plug sticking up. I took it all apart again and measured the plugs. About 1/8" two long and probably a little fatter than the originals. I reassembled using the same process of inserting everything together, and trimmed the rubber to 1/4". I applied 5 lbs of air pressure to the assembled motor to insure there were no leaks. The rear cap, pan and main all sealed up nicely, 150 miles now and the assembly is leak free!
    sounds like fun

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