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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #991
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    On the A1 we had, it was three layers of olive. The motor pool would just slap another layer on top of the other. Red was most likely was for a fire department after being discharged from service. The yellow was likely Civil Defense after the fire department used it. Black was probably the first civilian owner for who knows what reason. The nylon brushes I use are good for eating off one layer of paint if careful. You might be able to get the i.d. number or bumper number. It would be interesting to see if the fire department name was painted on the hood. Then you could contact the department. They keep really good records on their equipment, plus might have photos of your Jeep while in service. Too bad the government keeps crap for records. To this day, we have no idea on what has been done out in the field.

    I'll get a picture of the copper chunk I'm going to send your way. Private message me your address, and I'll get it out to you this week.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 11-19-2018 at 08:25 AM.

  2. #992
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    GREAT, ALL I HAVE FOUND IS COPPER FLASHING?? NOT GOOD TO TRY THAT WOULD THINK JUST TOO DAMN THIN.
    Got all kinds of little holes that need to be filled and just do not want to use "bondo" can use that for pinholes and such but 1/4 inch old bolt holes need steel, sent the address. while waiting for pieces and parts been doing busy work, such as loosening every nut on the firewall, removing, cleaning and putting a tiny dab of grease and putting back in. have two bodies and both have different covers for batteries, the one i selected has the kind that has multiple twist posts holding the cover down, but dont have the cover,,, however have a great cover on the other one that has two holders one on each end. am converting the restoration projedt to utilize that cover this is what i am using
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/media/c.../blid-snap.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 11-20-2018 at 03:47 PM.

  3. #993
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The copper will do you just fine. The handle makes it nice to keep from burning your hand. If you don't have a helper, it is big enough to use a clamp to hold in place. I'll it in the mail tomorrow afternoon. Should be at your place Monday at your mail box.

    There was two veriations of battery covers, (early and later). Right this moment I can't think of which one was which. Use what you got, and everything will be OK.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 11-20-2018 at 09:15 PM.

  4. #994
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    "Right this moment I can't think of which one was which. Use what you got, and everything will be ok" been test fitting and the one that i am using seems to fit quite well in fact was so happy with the fit that i cut off the quick lock screws, all 6 of them and those holes will get filled in and i have all the hardware to refit the lid on the hull... bout time something fell into place

  5. #995
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Your A1 body is from '52 - '53, with the thumb screws. As said earlier, the vast majority of the A1s produced were the style you are installing.

    http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...asc&highlight=

  6. #996
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    ANOTHER PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED. Right rear fender well is bad shape, just too much to try to patch up so i ordered and received a new one, now to do this the entire well has to come out, but the exterior body has again spot welds and it has additional supports. this going to be a challenge. the union between the rear deck and the fender well not that big a issue in as much as both the rear deck and the fender well itself are going. but to remove the fender well have to be careful of the support bracket inside it. what do you all reckon 100 spot welds along the top where the well meets the outer body???

    fenderspt.jpgnewwell1.jpgnewwell2.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 11-21-2018 at 11:14 AM.

  7. #997
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    Your A1 body is from '52 - '53, with the thumb screws. As said earlier, the vast majority of the A1s produced were the style you are installing.

    http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...asc&highlight=
    well the thing is ready to go on and damn if it dont fit real good.... the attachements are all ready need to install four sheet metal screws and its done, been straightening out the lip seems to have been beat up quite a bit but straightening it all out as i go

    is there a TM that covers the body, can not access that stuff on the other site
    Last edited by pelago; 11-21-2018 at 01:25 PM.

  8. #998
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I don't recall seeing a TM on just the body. There are a sh*t load of spot welds. They must have gotten paid by the weld when the body was produced. Sounds like things are coming together alright.

  9. #999
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    I don't recall seeing a TM on just the body. There are a sh*t load of spot welds. They must have gotten paid by the weld when the body was produced. Sounds like things are coming together alright.
    right rear wheel well also has supports inside and outside all supports need to stay and spot welds carefully removed on both of them also the seat brackets

  10. #1000
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The seat bracket is the most important to get just right. The support is important, but not as critical.

    The copper is in the mail. Should be there Monday.

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