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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1011
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I would put the tag back where it belongs. The tag is protected when the seat is in place, and visible when the seat is flipped forward. Even if you didn't have the original tag, Kaiser Willys and most other outlets sells blank reproduction serial number tags, that can be either hand stamped as the original, or taken to a trophy shop to be engraved. The original body stamping should be on the driver's side toe board gusset, facing the back side of the inner fender. Good to verify the tag and body number matches. Also, the dash nomenclature will have the serial number stamped in it. Often these plates are missing.

    The harbor freight automatic welding good works every bit as good as a professional Speedglass helmet that goes for $300. I have had expensive helmets, but they eat batteries. The harbor special works off solar power. Both are adjustable for different shades for different applications. MIG requires a lighter shade that a stick welder does. The autodarkener starts off clear, then within a fraction of a second, it darkens to the shade selected. You don't have to flip the hood up and down between arcs.

    The welder settings depends on your material used. I use a Miler Matic 110 vac welder with .035 solid core Esab wire. The shielding gas is argon 75/25%. I keep the heat up, and adjust the wire speed to cope with the thickness of the steel being welded. The welder does well with up to 1/4" steel, but is at home working with sheet metal.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 11-23-2018 at 09:48 PM.

  2. #1012
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelago View Post
    yeah, the helmet and lense just do not give a picture of what i am doing, so so damn dark all i see is the arc and can not even see the work area at all and my lines go all over the place, when i think i did a good weld i look without helmet and i see that my weld line wandered all over the freakin place. i have a lot of scrap 20 gauge now and will try to practice on that some
    I have that same problem even with good overhead lighting. A well placed, bright, work light shining on what I am trying to weld helps me. I also started wearing dark shirts when welding. Lighter colors were reflecting light into the hemet which in turn was being reflected by the helmet into my face.

    I am currently using a Lincoln helmet with an auto-darkening lens I bought new for $45. I think I can also adjust how dark it gets. I started with a cheaper brand but my eyes were always getting flashed. I never could keep lined up with an old school helmet that had to be raised and lowered.
    Last edited by 51 CJ3; 11-23-2018 at 10:17 PM.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  3. #1013
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 51 CJ3 View Post
    I have that same problem even with good overhead lighting. A well placed, bright, work light shining on what I am trying to weld helps me. I also started wearing dark shirts when welding. Lighter colors were reflecting light into the hemet which in turn was being reflected by the helmet into my face.

    I am currently using a Lincoln helmet with an auto-darkening lens I bought new for $45. I think I can also adjust how dark it gets. I started with a cheaper brand but my eyes were always getting flashed. I never could keep lined up with an old school helmet that had to be raised and lowered.
    got a lot to learn about this welding, last time i welded in reality was high school metal shop in 1960

  4. #1014
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    ???e driver's side toe board gusset this it??gusset.jpg

  5. #1015
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    "if i ever say i am going to remove a fender well, please take me out to the back 40 and shoot me. Four days and last weld out and well is gone, but i saved one of the support brackets, the one in front has some rust hope kaiser has a substitute. Was able to remove all the welds on the main support bracket and it is still in there waiting for the new fender well to go in................

  6. #1016
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That is it. The original body number serial number is stamped on the vertical surface of the toe board gusset.

    All the spot welds help hold the Jeep together for the severe duty it was designed to handle. I still think the body builders were paid by the spot weld. I prefer for the garage to be fairly dark when welding. I do not like to have overhead lighting when working on a body, because the light reflects on the inside of the hood.

  7. #1017
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Wire brushed it and no number?? Oh well got the original id

  8. #1018
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That's interesting. As you said, as long as you have the tag, you are alright.

  9. #1019
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    That's interesting. As you said, as long as you have the tag, you are alright.
    and the body i am using is the one that had the tag and also the numberless bracket, oh well done many years ago and wth it is all that the DMV guys care about and is real and i showed the inspector the page in the manual where the ID tag located and he said, well it is supposed to be on the frame, and i reminded him that this thing build 35yrs before he was born. he agreed. that is all i care, and that is to get a good title and have numbers match

  10. #1020
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    this is the bracket i need to replace, looks like a straight 90 degree and not very big, might get a bigger one and cut down?? this goes right behind the passenger seat and inside the fender and has another piece bolted from outside, might have something to do with seat, this tub did not have that piece but the other one does and i will remove that one and use on this one. Went outside and checked the other hull, and there is a ID tag at same location, will remove tomorrow and take a look but on same precise spot, and the bracket was so rusted no way i could see any numbers, in fact it was mostly gone

    would this be the right bracket??
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/passeng...-71-cj-5-m38a1


    rusty bracket 2.jpgrusty bracket1.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 11-25-2018 at 06:01 PM.

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