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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1101
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    When I was maintenance chief of 10th Marines (electronic) we had these configured as radio jeeps MRC83, 110,09 had HF (trc75 a 1Kw transcierver <big>) and the vrc group of vhf radios... got to keep looking for correct wheels that dont cost 150 bucks each, remember once when following a MRC83 it blew up and sent a connecting rod to the road... needless to say we got a new motor.. but maintenance rules of the time indicated that we had to tow it back and again perform all second echelon maintenance, I SAID NFWAY) called maintenance officer a old W4 tht i had known for years and he chuckled and said yeah that is a waste of time bring it in as is and we will deal with it

  2. #1102
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Not much has changed. We service a power pack, (FUPP -full up power pack) engine/transmission/cooling tower. When the vehicle is assigned to the unit, they often dump the oil and coolant for Arctic service. Then when we do set the pack for Arctic duty, they end up sending the vehicle to California for unit training before going on to Alaska. You guessed it, dump the oil and coolant three times by the time it gets to its final duty station. Our tax dollars at work.

    Here is a M151A2.
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    Last edited by gmwillys; 12-18-2018 at 06:58 AM.

  3. #1103
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    interesting... pulled the ID tag off the other M38A1 and i am just not sure what the serial number is, one long number hyphenated?? or two numbers??.. but they are different both had same motor in it but the earlier one had two long steel rods connected to radiator all way back to firewall? the other one did not? the body i am using does not have attachment points for the two steel rods?. did they find later on that they were just not needed?

    ID1.jpg2ndm38a1 id.jpg

    there is a photo of the floor included, tried to delete it in as much as i must have moved wrong photo but unable to do so?
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    Last edited by pelago; 12-18-2018 at 10:09 AM.

  4. #1104
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The first tag is the serial number. MD designates the M38A1, but often times the engine will not match due to motor pool switcheroo. The second tag is a later version with the model number of 57148 before the serial number of 88989.

    The radiator rods on the early A1s mounted off the front motor mounts, while the latter ones ran from the firewall. The early A1s also had hinges on the front grill that allowed the grill to pivot downward for pack removal. The power pack was in a sense self contained so that the complete assembly could be removed without having to drain the radiator. The later ones did not have the hinges on the grill.

  5. #1105
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    tried to look it up but data sort of confused, or i am 88989 has to be after the other one

  6. #1106
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If it doesn't fall within the serial number range, then it may be a foreign sales unit that was produced through the sixties. G503 websight had some info on how to tell.

  7. #1107
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    body panels, fender well, and under seat tool box.....
    FENDERWELL AND BODY PANELS2.jpgFENDERWELL AND BODY PANELS3.jpg.fenderwellsw ande body panel.jpg


    got a issue with the quarter panel i am putting on, and it lines up on the right side great and lines up on left side great BUT NOT TOGETHER. going to have to get clever and probably cut the panel and make it curve some more a diagonal cut from bottem to right at curve and then separate so both sides match, if i do it right over the brace should be easy to fill??


    order of installation 1st rear deck/floor, then tool box lip over that?? floor goes from wheel well to wheel well and tool box on top?? correct
    Last edited by pelago; 12-20-2018 at 12:31 PM.

  8. #1108
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Let me see if I am tracking correctly from what I have gathered. Easy questions first. The tool box is the last to be installed. The rear floor and then riser. The wheel well then can be positioned and tacked. I would fit the tool box to ensure that the quarter panel isn't bowed out before welding the wheel well in permanent. If you are having trouble fitting panels, I would check for the body being square. When I cut out all the support on the A1 I did, cut some 3/4" square tubing and made a brace to keep the body square. This made fitting panels fairly easy. I didn't have to replace anything at the rear, but the entire front floor was compromised. The only original steel that was holding the cowl on was the tops of the door entrance. To square everything, I had to use a port-a-power to push the top of the cowl forward 8". The quarter panels should remain flat, without any deviation.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 12-20-2018 at 02:41 PM.

  9. #1109
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    TOOL BOX, LAST, CHECK..., WHEEL WELL IN AND PARTIALLY TACKED, SOME BOLTS HOLDING IT IN ALSO, DID WELD IT AT THE JUNCTION TO THE RISER, REST BOLTS. CHECK.. PANEL IS LIKE A LAYING DOWN "L" AND LEFT SIDE FITS, BUT THEN WHERE IT JOINS THE FIREWALL COWL IT IS OUT, THEN WHEN IT IS OKAY AT FIREWALL COWEL (RIGHT BELOW THE WINDSHIELD) JUNCTION THEN LEFT OUT OF WHACK..... THIS PORTION OF BODY PRETTY STIFF, AND FEEL THAT IF I MAKE A CUT ALMOST TO EDGE CAN GET BOTH ENDS SQUARE AND THEY ALL MATCH UP TO THE OLD SPOT WELD HOLES ... If i force it have a bow. cant force it, but the new brace fits well, and the panel outside the brace fits well and floor is flush to bottom of brace.. still have the riser that goes from wheel well to wheel well and ouside both sides, have ordered a new rear floor.

  10. #1110
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    It will be alright to make the cut to give you what you need to bring everything together. I wish the rear panel, (tailgate section) was complete, then I would recommend that you could place the body on your spare frame to act as a jig. I don't remember if you stripped the second Jeep down to the frame or not. I was lucky to have a rolling chassis to place the body on when replacing major body parts. The body went from the frame to being turned over for final welds. I had steel pucks made up to replicate the body rubber mounts. When the body was completed, everything mounted up damn near perfectly. To double check the square, take your tape measure and pick two points in an X pattern, (left front on dash bolt to right rear corner, then right front dash bolt to the left rear). If the measurements are the same, then you are square.

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