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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #1131
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Now to the mechanics of frame and chassis.....
    love the idea of using spare frame for fitting, and it is ready and stripped of all pieces and parts not needed for body .. frame outside sitting on stands, body inside on stands Hmmm only way to get hoist under it is from front? then got to pull out of garage and mount on frame?? Put body on rollers? lift body up and put frame on rollers and scoot under? none of this stuff is light? this gonna take some thinking????????????

    here is one idea..
    lift body as high as possible and rest it on 2X6's across saw horses (should be ok) and roll frame under with small 10"12" roller boards from that chinese tool store (got two and it worked on rolling body on its side to my trailer) then lower body to frame on stands?? since the center of gravity should be pretty forward since the back floor not there should get a good lift with engine hoise


    primer1.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 12-25-2018 at 12:45 PM.

  2. #1132
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Lifting from the front will work up until the rear floor is installed. With the axles removed, that brings your jack stands at the width of the frame. This will then make it too narrow to bring the hoist in the front. One idea would be to find a swivel link to place in between the hook of the hoist, and the straps. Then you can tie off the body when lifted to the hoist, then the body will not free spin as you move it. The same can be done by twisting the hook on the hoist, then tie off the body to the hoist so it doesn't turn sideways until you are ready. Another thought, if your rafters are exposed in your shop, pick the body with a come along, then slide the frame underneath. Lower the body over the frame. The idea of using the saw horses would work as well.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 12-25-2018 at 07:04 PM.

  3. #1133
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    need some memory tweaking here, and some critique... some photos from a step ladder showing what i think are the body location mounting spots, correct highlighted in hot rod orange.. have i got the spots right??? am waiting for the rear deck and the support brackets already ordered

    strippedframe2.jpg

    strippedframe1.jpg

    damn left a crappy piece of plywood covering two holes on rear bumper section, was worried would fall off rickety ladder
    Last edited by pelago; 12-26-2018 at 04:05 PM.

  4. #1134
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    There are three that are not needed. One next to the pedestal mount for the machine gun, (the flat plate on top of the crossmember) and the two in the center of the crossmember to the left. There is a total of 11. I think I told you 9 the other day, but I forgot the two in the middle of the floor.
    The most important mounts will be the two at the rear crossmember/bumper, the two at the riser, then the two on the front floor. When those 6 are lined up and square, then everything will fall into place. As you get everything tacked and located, then add the corresponding mounts. Use wood to replicate the rubber body mounts.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 12-26-2018 at 08:50 PM.

  5. #1135
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    wood to replicate the rubber body mounts. forgot all about those....

    these them??
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/rubber-...ts-46-64-truck

    however this seems a bit pricey
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/complet...its-41-71-jeep
    Last edited by pelago; 12-27-2018 at 06:23 AM.

  6. #1136
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    If you have the bolts,nuts and washers pelago all you need are the rubber spacers.
    I found a website you can buy any type of fasteners you want it’s boltdepot.com and they are reasonable.
    Last edited by TJones; 12-27-2018 at 07:31 AM.

  7. #1137
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJones View Post
    If you have the bolts,nuts and washers pelago all you need are the rubber spacers.
    I found a website you can buy any type of fasteners you want it’s boltdepot.com and they are reasonable.
    COULDN'T THE RUBBER SPACERS BE FOUND LOCALLY BUT IN SOMEOTHER FORM?? Like shop matting sold by foot at lowes? that is for 1/4"thick stuff 1/2" thick got to think about that, the ones that Kaiser sell seem to be about 2 1/2" X 1/2" nuts and bolts not a issue so much as the rubber is. have three good sources for #8 bolts, kind of like the closer thread that was used years ago , and i saved every nut and bolt that came off two hulks

  8. #1138
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Let me check my stuff, I may have what came off mine and if I do I’ll give them to ya.
    I got all new ones with my body.

  9. #1139
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjones View Post
    let me check my stuff, i may have what came off mine and if i do i’ll give them to ya.
    I got all new ones with my body.


    was suggested to find some old mud flaps............. Should get 1/2" thickness out of them for sure

  10. #1140
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Mud flaps will work just fine. A whole lot cheaper too.

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