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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #111
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    LATE ANSWER TO OLD QUESTION

    I guess a late answer is better than none at all.

    We had to replace one new voltage regulator during the ’48 restoration and being the pack rat am, I kept the “new bad one”. In the bottom of the box that had the bad voltage regulator in it was a set of installation instructions that included how to polarize the regulator.

    Disconnect the negative battery terminal
    Remove wires from terminals noting location of each one
    Remove old regulator
    Install new regulator
    Reattach wires to same terminals as original unit
    Reconnect negative battery cable

    Polarize Regulator

    Obtain an 8-inch piece of 16-gauge or larger jumper wire
    Momentarily (no more than 2-econds) touch the jumper wire to both the armature (ARM) terminal and the battery (BAT) terminal. There may be a brief spark, this is normal.
    CAUTION: Do not touch the jumper wire to the field terminal (FLD) or ground
    Start vehicle and check for proper charging system operation.

    I still believe that since the regulators have been in service already, they won’t need to be re-polarized – even after boo-coo years

  2. #112
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    thanks i printed that and put it in my folder. Now trying to figure this out, why is there a valve in the middle there is oil in there but dont believe it is under pressure, the brass line goies in front of engine and around to a "T" fitting on the intake manifold right under carb?? there is another extension that was broken off and crimped shut on this engine. is this part of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation?? and is the valve for fording? there is not handle on the valve and it is in the open position. so far have not found it in the shop manual??curious.jpg
    late entry found a reference and some diagrams now more confused my engine no way is the same configuration as describedfuel fileer.jpg
    my air filter is NOT configured like this,
    do not have the connections that are in manual only one and that comes from oil fill pipe and that should go to air filter

    if you look below this, one will see the oil pressure line that goes to the oil filter. i need to get a new hose for this, the old one pretty ragged and will need new hose for the oil return.. might see if i can get onelocally shouldnot be that big a deal (hope)

    probably going to have to wing it do have more info in vacume linesventilating system.jpg there are hoses going everywherefuel pump.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 09-23-2017 at 04:09 PM.

  3. #113
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Yep - you found the same pictures I did.

    The valves, lines and such that you've found were part of the kit that made the M38 and M38A1 semi-submersible. (The one you drove into the China Sea might have been OK if it hadn't been so deep...). Most people called it the fording kit, but as both of us found out - it was technically called the Engine Venting System and involved just about everything on the vehicle; fuel tank, transfer case, master cylinder, carburetor, distributor and even the valve cover on the side of the engine. Oh yes, windshield wiper motor too.

    As I looked at things, there were lot of variations on how the system was configured as the M38A1 was built. Early and late production changed as lines and fittings were added or deleted. The good news is that most of the lines were not needed to just make the vehicle run, so crimped lines and brass plugs can substitute for most of the parts if they are missing.

    Yee-Haw.

  4. #114
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    man there must have been quite a few production changes. i stood in front of my engine and compared photos from the manual that i got, and kept saying "dont have that, dont have that. over and over again. as you stated when i drove that damn thing into the south china sea there were a few geysers coming around us, did not care whether it could ford or not i just drove away from crap coming at us, it finally stalled and we ran (two of us) for cover up the dunes. wonder if tht thing still there, but aint gonna go back and see.
    Only thing consistant seems to be fuel supply to the fuel/vacume pump. going to configure it out to basic run status

  5. #115
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    I have access to two vehicles, one is an M38 of some version - the other may be an M151. Let me look at them and see just how much of that vent system is left on them. That system looks more like a helicopter hydraulic system than a motor vehicle....

    Basic run is a good starting place

  6. #116
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Basic run is a good starting place

    agreed, think so, can always add the other stuff

  7. #117
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    friday is the big day, i break my piggy bank (after saving) and order complete suspension kit from kaiser willys then will order two rims and four tires,, think i will shop a bit for the tires, 150 bucks for a tire like this seems a bit stiff, but who knows might be all have similar prices

  8. #118
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Check for a local Specialty Tires of America. No tires are cheap, but my local STA dealer had good choices in 16-inch tires for the '48 truck.

    I put a modest tread road tire on the front and a gnarly truck tread on the back. It has never had this good a set of tires in its life!

    I think I have an M38A1 and an M151 to look at for fording kit details.

  9. #119
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Piggy bank, colorless, broken bleeding on the floor................. complete suspension kit purchased... and to add this really looks like funventilating system.jpg
    as has been suggested, not all of this is needed to enable engine to run, now i will have to figure out which one i can ??plug off??

  10. #120
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    Rear end differential and front differential, old gear lube... Now this is a harebrained idea, but it worked. took a old hibachi grill built small charcoal fire in it and put 3 foot under the rear differential, cooked it for 2 hours, moved the grill removed the drain plug and all the gear lube came out HOT man did it flow, think i got it all.. doing front end now, also wrapped the thing in aluminum foil just to make sure heat not direct to differentials, the one i drained i looked inside with pen light and not a drop of gear lube could i find... now to fill it with 2 1/2 pints 90wt

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