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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #121
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    GREAT NEWS spent last three days working on the rear differential and axle, completely down to original (i believe baked on) Olive, all cleaned up, all oil clips and "T" cleaned and serviceable, all put back on in prep for new brake lines, got to the hubs and allways dreaded taking them off, felt that there would be wear so bad would have to get new hubs. LO and BEHOLD absolutely no wear at all, damn thing look new, yeah some surface rust that quickly came off, and i put some of that rust inhibitor/shield/paint prep on them and shot them with some high temp black, but absolutely no wear on them,M38A1 HUB.jpgM38A1 HUB2.jpg





    once again am using this stuff and i sure do like it and the results....http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/7/2...izer-Spray.htm
    Last edited by pelago; 10-03-2017 at 09:35 PM.

  2. #122
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    at first i had planned on sandblasting, but it is so damned heavy and would cost probably 150.00 for both of them, front and rear, i took a look with a wire brush and found that most of the crud was dirt, and when i cleaned it i came to original color olive drab. so i spend three full days super cleaning the rear end differential and axle. then washed in hot sudsy soapy water and rinsed clean and let dry in sun and then used that rust treatment previously mentioned, sure like that stuff, whatever minor surface rust treated, then i painted it in good old crappy olive drabrrear end1.jpgrear end2.jpgrear end 3.jpg




    if you loook at the pictures can see the front end in same shot, this is sort of a before and after also

  3. #123
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=pelago;3673]at first i had planned on sandblasting, but it is so damned heavy and would cost probably 150.00 for both of them, front and rear, i took a look with a wire brush and found that most of the crud was dirt, and when i cleaned it i came to original color olive drab. so i spend three full days super cleaning the rear end differential and axle. then washed in hot sudsy soapy water and rinsed clean and let dry in sun and then used that rust treatment previously mentioned, sure like that stuff, whatever minor surface rust treated, then i painted it in good old crappy olive drabrrear end1.jpgrear end2.jpgrear end 3.jpg

    Harbor Freight sells a drill operated nylon brush, (much like a traditional wire brush) that works really well on all metal surfaces. The brushes sell for $3.99 a piece, and last a long time. I've stripped en entire heep, using a total of five brushes. The brushes do not come apart, heat the metal, nor gouge the metal surfaces. A quick wipe of acetone, and the item is ready for paint. The brushes will power through multi layers of paint easily, cleans surface rust, and chews through bondo too.
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  4. #124
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=pelago;3673]at first i had planned on sandblasting, but it is so damned heavy and would cost probably 150.00 for both of them, front and rear, i took a look with a wire brush and found that most of the crud was dirt, and when i cleaned it i came to original color olive drab. so i spend three full days super cleaning the rear end differential and axle. then washed in hot sudsy soapy water and rinsed clean and let dry in sun and then used that rust treatment previously mentioned, sure like that stuff, whatever minor surface rust treated, then i painted it in good old crappy olive drabrrear end1.jpgrear end2.jpgrear end 3.jpg

    Harbor Freight sells a drill operated nylon brush, (much like a traditional wire brush) that works really well on all metal surfaces. The brushes sell for $3.99 a piece, and last a long time. I've stripped en entire heep, using a total of five brushes. The brushes do not come apart, heat the metal, nor gouge the metal surfaces. A quick wipe of acetone, and the item is ready for paint. well on sheet metal and cast iron.
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  5. #125
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    DAMN!! The little flat screws that hold the drum are frozen solid, heat (20 minutes) did not budge them,,, but reason heat not working is the actual part that needs heating is the damn hub, can not get to it. gonna have to drill the damn things

  6. #126
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    In regards to removing paint from the axles, sheet metal, and steel. Harbor Freight sells nylon brushes that are used in a drill. The are $3.99 each, and on the average heep, I've used five to completely remove paint. The brushes are either 80 or 120 grit. The brushes do not heat the metal, and do not remove any metal. The metal surface just needs to be wiped with solvent, and is ready for paint. No sand in crevasse, doesn't harden sheet metal by peening, and no sharp wire shrapnel impaling soft tissue. The brushes come in flat or cup brushes. They cut through multi layers of paint, rust, and bondo.
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  7. #127
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    HEY, APPRECIATE THAT!!! HERE IS MY SANDBLASTED PARTS.100_1028.jpg i DO HAVE A MONSTER JOB AHEAD AND THAT IS THE TUB, FENDERS AND HOOD DONE AND PRIMER-ED100_1030.jpg100_1031.jpg
    Last edited by pelago; 10-06-2017 at 11:45 AM.

  8. #128
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    think i just did a good thing. in Wilmington NC i found a surplus store and the old guy that started it is a WWII and Korea vet. he has a restored M38A1 that he rents out to movie people and we sort of hit it off and i got a complete transmission, transfer case and emergency brake for $250.00 us dollars, checked it out and looked inside and clear 90 wt and no steel shavings.. he is looking in his warehouse for other parts and pieces

  9. #129
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Look at how those vent lines are routed!

    Remember - pure blind luck overcomes planning and forethought

  10. #130
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    doing that now. now here is one? Tie rod ends, seems that the front end tie rods are all frozen, as far as adjusting in and out, am working on freeing them up, have loosened the lock down bolt and that is now moving okay, and have widened the gaps that compress the end, Hopefully with patience and a BFH i will get the whole thing to move and then can clean up the threads and put some lube on there to be able to adjust. BUT WHAT CONSTITUTES A BAD TIE ROD END, ALL OF THEM SEEM TIGHT AND WILL MOVE (INSIDE THE SOCKET AND BALL). Can get them but if dont need to spend money would rather not. most of the rubber umbrella to keep grease inside are bad but feeding the ZIRCS would re introduce grease into the thing???? HAD TO MOVE THE REAR END DIFFERENTIAL ABOUT 40 FEET... SURE HOPE I DID NOT BOTCH UP HERNIA. DAMN THING HAS TO WEIGH 300 LBS, but it is sitting under frame and going to rehang the thing this week
    Last edited by pelago; 10-09-2017 at 07:26 AM. Reason: cant spell worth a damn

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